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Excessive Heat inside cab console 2021 Can Am Commander XT 1000R

22116 Views 72 Replies 24 Participants Last post by  Just 1 More, 
Deb Tolbert
Bought this new 2021 commander XT 1000R in April and have just used it around the farm.Has 22 hours on it. Went on our first mountain ride and was very disappointed in the heat coming from the console down by our legs. Temps running normal range but had to stop ever 15 minutes or so and get out just to cool off our legs.I have notified Can Am regarding this problem and have made appt with dealer where we purchased this machine. Very disappointed because there big sales pitch was no more heat in cab since they had moved the engine to the rear under the dump bed to alleviate this problem as they had in previous years. I was told , this is the first they have heard of my complaint and I was just wondering if anyone else was having similar issues !!!
Thanks ,
Deb in Arkansas
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allegro
Slightly off of the center of this topic, but my '14XT was unbearable in the summer. Top, full windshield and rear net.

Installed one of Troy's covers, a split/tilt windshield and a fan override, now all is great. The answer is obviously air-flow and some sort of barrier at least on the passenger side near exhaust.
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plummcrazy58
MNForestRider said:
I previously owned a 2012 Commander 1000XT which was a great machine but the heat issues were horrendous! In May I purchased my 2021 XT and all Summer I rode around without any windshield as the PowerFlip was on constant backorder. But I was pleased in the fact that I had ZERO heat issues in the new model so much so that I'm concerned about freezing to death while running the snow plow this coming winter.

So last week they finally received the PowerFlip windshield and installed it on my machine. The windshield is great and operates quite well. But I haven't had a chance to give my machine a good long ride since the installation and honestly you all have me a little worried about what I might encounter when I get to stretch it's legs.

I'm wondering if the installation of a windshield creates a low pressure area in the cab causing extra heat from the front radiator to be drawn up the tunnel and through the shifter slot? Or are the coolant lines acting like a cooling system as extra air comes across them and gets pulled into the cab area?

I'm planning to go for a long ride over the weekend and I'm going to be quite disappointed if I start experiencing heat issues after 750 miles of happiness in my new rig. I sure hope that you can get your issue resolved and share it with everyone else looking for solutions. I'll keep you updated on my experiences this weekend.
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Have the power flip on mine and have no regrets! The windshield does and will cause heat in the cab but for me not on the level as my old 2016 Commander. With that said just crack the windshield open a bit or wide open and the heat is gone. Took a short rip the other day, Temps high 60s low 70s never opened windshield at all. My old Mander anytime it was 60 or above windshield was open. Hope this helps.

Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk
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Verchern
We had the same problem on our 2021 Commander. No issue with half windshield, excessive heat with full windshield. I removed the black plastic hood cover and it seemed to help. I am wondering if you could cut out the fake air intake on the hood. I would like to someone else experiment with removing that hood cover and see if you see a difference before I start cutting on my machine.
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Hessian
Verchern said:
We had the same problem on our 2021 Commander. No issue with half windshield, excessive heat with full windshield. I removed the black plastic hood cover and it seemed to help. I am wondering if you could cut out the fake air intake on the hood. I would like to someone else experiment with removing that hood cover and see if you see a difference before I start cutting on my machine.
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The general consensus I'm seeing on the G2 Commander Nation Facebook group is that once you put the soft upper doors on the cabin heat goes away.

You'll get heat only with a front and rear windshield, because it creates a vacuum that pulls air up from the engine. Closing the cab essentially removes that vacuum.
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Verchern
Hessian said:
The general consensus I'm seeing on the G2 Commander Nation Facebook group is that once you put the soft upper doors on the cabin heat goes away.

You'll get heat only with a front and rear windshield, because it creates a vacuum that pulls air up from the engine. Closing the cab essentially removes that vacuum.
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Good to know. I am having upper doors and tracks installed next week. We will see if the doors fix the issue. I am still curious if the hood vent will make a difference.
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MNForestRider
I posted about 3 months earlier on this subject. After receiving the Powerflip windshield I noted an increase in the cab heat on my G2 Commander when the windshield was closed tight. But I have to say that it's far less than my 2012 Commander (far less). Opening the windshield up almost eliminates the issue for me. Having infinite adjustment when opening it makes it much easier to get the circulation you desire And over the past few weeks the extra heat has been a welcome addition while I'm snow plowing.

There's no way that a fixed front windshield would be acceptable for me in the summertime. Having a way to open up (or remove) the windshield is a must in opinion. I enjoy my summer rides far more when my machine isn't cooking me.
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R
I have a 2021 Commander XT and it has the same heat problem. I did put in a front windshield with vents and a full rear windshield before I did alot of driving. I am removing the rear windshield and putting in a mesh sunscreen. I waited until night time and shined a flashlight all around front wheel wells going into cab, holes everywhere you can see light in the cab. Going to seal all that. Mine is street legal and I drive it to work once a week heat blows up thru the shifter opening. I removed complete center console area, you can see the radiator hoses but under the shifter you are looking thru the floor down to skid plate and the driveshaft is visible, that is where most of heat is coming up shifter. I had already had skid plate removed for the other noise problem so I am taking all back off and putting insulation thru complete driveshaft tunnel from underneath. Now also with shift tunnel off up in the very front where the radiator hose first come is a opening that needs to be covered up also. I am doing all that before I break down and change the windshield to a different style, I am not doing with out some type of windshield in dusty AZ at 110 degrees in the summer. Also found a universal radiator relocation kit have local custom shops looking at that option like the Mavericks, to move it all to the back if need be.
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Cormander
Deb Tolbert said:
I have insulated the coolant lines that the idiots ran through the console with cool it by thermomtec , but it didn’t help much. My next step will be to relocate the lines into the driveshaft tunnel, which is where they should have been in the first place. What kind of idiots would redesign a side by side to reduce a heat issue and leave the main culprit for the problem in the same place ?
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Won’t that just make the heat suck more central?
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R
The radiator hoses might give off a little heat, but worse with air blowing past them. The fan is pulling heat out of radiator and pushing it back. They have the small deflector shields in front but they don't work to good , thats why I shined the flash light at night to see all the openings. If you can stop all air flow going into the cab it will stay in the driveshaft tunnel and blow out the back or be deflected off the front. Now the firewall will still get hot but anything is better than leaving it alone. The best fix but most expensive would be moving radiator. I am starting this week end, I can see how much room is actually in the driveshaft tunnel.
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Just 1 More
RJohnson said:
The radiator hoses might give off a little heat, but worse with air blowing past them. The fan is pulling heat out of radiator and pushing it back. They have the small deflector shields in front but they don't work to good , thats why I shined the flash light at night to see all the openings. If you can stop all air flow going into the cab it will stay in the driveshaft tunnel and blow out the back or be deflected off the front. Now the firewall will still get hot but anything is better than leaving it alone. The best fix but most expensive would be moving radiator. I am starting this week end, I can see how much room is actually in the driveshaft tunnel.
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Take lots of pictures please
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R
Got started today, waited for parts to show up. After removing skid plate and inside console panels there is absolutely no where to apply a stick on heat shield of even zip tie one, just all uneven areas. I reconsidered and used a 1 inch max can of expansion spray crack filler. It actually works very good when you get the hang of it, very easy to cut and mold after it hardens. I removed the rear windshield and installed the new front tilt windshield. I also had the drive line noise issue that's on another thread. I had went to local Ride Now since it was warranty and so far I think they fixed it changed the complete drive line. But had vibration and seen they did not time the driveshaft correctly so not going back to them. I have the new billet carrier bearing from Super ATV and their 3 inch lift kit. Going to a local shop close to where I work and get it serviced and lift and carrier put on all at once. Under the shifter is a 3 x 6 open hole going down to drive line, takes a bit to fill it, then trim the bottom by drive line. Still allot of holes open everywhere waiting till I get it back from shop and put the skid plate on.




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Spud
Get a fan over-ride and turn the fan on early. It makes a huge difference on the OG's. I imagine your heat is coming mostly from the radiator after it heats up.
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Just 1 More
RJohnson said:
Got started today, waited for parts to show up. After removing skid plate and inside console panels there is absolutely no where to apply a stick on heat shield of even zip tie one, just all uneven areas. I reconsidered and used a 1 inch max can of expansion spray crack filler. It actually works very good when you get the hang of it, very easy to cut and mold after it hardens. I removed the rear windshield and installed the new front tilt windshield. I also had the drive line noise issue that's on another thread. I had went to local Ride Now since it was warranty and so far I think they fixed it changed the complete drive line. But had vibration and seen they did not time the driveshaft correctly so not going back to them. I have the new billet carrier bearing from Super ATV and their 3 inch lift kit. Going to a local shop close to where I work and get it serviced and lift and carrier put on all at once. Under the shifter is a 3 x 6 open hole going down to drive line, takes a bit to fill it, then trim the bottom by drive line. Still allot of holes open everywhere waiting till I get it back from shop and put the skid plate on.
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Anxious to see how that foam works out
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