[bronchole]

2016 Maverick XRS DPS
~10000 miles on it
Upgraded the primary clutch to use the keyed turbo sheeve
New motor at 9000 miles
New belt at motor change
Swapped to 30” tires a couple hundred miles ago

Was out riding last weekend and apparently the bolt that holds the secondary clutch on backed out and allowed the secondary clutch to come off the shaft:

I had this apart several hundred miles ago when I swapped in my new motor. I am confident that the surfaces of the shaft and the ID surface of the clutch that interfaces with the shaft were very clean and defect free. I am also confident that I torqued the socket head cap screw per the instructions. I think I replaced this with the aftermarket bolt as a preventative measure for this very thing….. but I am not 100% sure at the moment. I am also not sure if I loctited the bolt threads. I am sure if the instructions said to Loctite it I did, I just don’t remember if the instructions said to.

I am in the process of ordering a roller secondary clutch and new weights/springs for the primary to help with the 30” tires. I know that my stock secondary is pretty well worn so that helps justify the change also. I want to make sure that this doesn’t happen again. Any idea on what I can do to help keep this from happening again?

Dan

 

[acefire]

Can you post a more clear Pic of the bolt ?

 

[cannedham]

I thought people were putting loc-tite on the secondary studs or bolts because of this problem, regardless of what the manual might say.

 

[bronchole]

I'll get a better pic of the bolt tonight.

 

[bronchole]

OK, I think I figured it out. I didn't use loctite. I did use copper anti-seize... DOH!

 

[acefire]

What did you Torque the bokt to? That a grade 10 block. Not the factory crap bolt. If you use loctite you only use one drop at the tip. If you use to much you will never get it back out when needed. Bolt isn't stretched . I personally have never used loctite on the ordinary or secondary bolts. If bolt is tight enough and clean they don't come loose unless you over tighten it and it stretches. That bolt should Torque to 55# not 35 that the factory one use bolt torqued to. 55 on the factory bolt and it would stretch and never stay tight .

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[cannedham]

Blue thread-lock if you use any.......I wouldn't put red on there.

 

[acefire]

No red

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[bronchole]

Honestly, I can't remember what I torqued it to. It may have been the factory spec. One thing for sure, the presence of anti-seize could not have helped. When I put it together this time (after cleaning out the anti-seize) I'll go with 2 threads worth of blue loctite and torque to 55 ft/lb.

Now all I need is to get someone to sell me a roller secondary to work with my 30" tires.

 

[[email protected]]

Honestly, I can't remember what I torqued it to. It may have been the factory spec. One thing for sure, the presence of anti-seize could not have helped. When I put it together this time (after cleaning out the anti-seize) I'll go with 2 threads worth of blue loctite and torque to 55 ft/lb.

Now all I need is to get someone to sell me a roller secondary to work with my 30" tires.

Ever have anymore troubles? I ordered the replacement reusable primary and secondary bolts from uatv. His primary calls for 100ftlb not sure on the secondary he doesn’t have it listed… guess I’ll dab a touch of blue loctite while I’m in there too!


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[acefire]

55 on secondary bolt .

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[slowindown]

It think 100 is on the high end for the primary. I’d try 90-95.

 

[[email protected]]

From the man himself if anyone ever wonders, this is for the primary and secondary reusable bolts from UATV. Hope to get back riding soon!


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[acefire]

It think 100 is on the high end for the primary. I’d try 90-95.

Standard bolt Torque for that bolt is 120lbs I actually Torque them 105 and 55. Standard for the secondary is 65. But factory was 85 and 35. And parts were falling off.

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[slowindown]

I snapped a craftsman hex socket on mine when I went to take it off to add the low speed engagement spring. Heat gun and new socket to remove. Torqued back as mentioned. Been running that way several years. There’s been several people that have stripped threads out of the crank on this forum removing the primary ( not necessarily because of high torque but for whatever reason). So I’ll stick with the 90/95. That’s just my thought process. Ace knows way more about these machines than me or most do.

 

[acefire]

I snapped a craftsman hex socket on mine when I went to take it off to add the low speed engagement spring. Heat gun and new socket to remove. Torqued back as mentioned. Been running that way several years. There’s been several people that have stripped threads out of the crank on this forum removing the primary ( not necessarily because of high torque but for whatever reason). So I’ll stick with the 90/95. That’s just my thought process. Ace knows way more about these machines than me or most do.

Yeah most that strip are being removed and everyone uses a 600 ft lbs impact to run the puller bolt in.

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[bronchole]

Just an update, I have a few trips on my new secondary clutch with the correct torque and 2 threads of blue loctite. All still going well.