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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2017 Commander w/1750 miles


I had all of the front A-arm bushings changed at around 140 hours along with a new passenger side upper and lower A-arm (and steering knuckle) after striking a hidden log. Now after around 300 miles or 17 hours of light use, I noted that the passenger side wheel was facing slightly to the outside (with the driver side front wheel being straight) causing the bike to pull to the right.


I took it into the "stealership" that had replaced the passenger side a-arm. knuckle, and bushings. After looking at it, they tell me that the upper bushings are bad and that they suspect that the wheel bearings are also shot.


Too make matters even more joyful, they suspect that the steering rack is also bad. I had replaced the OEM steering rack and tie rods at 125 hours with a SATV Rackboss (The first Rackboss lasted about 1 hour before breaking and SATV sent a replacement).


I'm being told that the bushings likely went bad because of the wheel bearings being bad and possibly the rack. Am I being snowballed?
 

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Have a mechanic Friend check out your unit as most stealers can’t be trusted
 

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Just my $.02,

Last year I did much of the work you described the dealer doing by myself. I am by no means a mechanic but it really isn't that difficult especially if you take some time and read on here. Plus while you are doing it if you have any issues post up a question and it usually gets answered pretty quickly. There is a great group of guys on here.

I highly recommend aftermarket UHMW bushings. I put Garage products on mine (shock bushings too). They are guaranteed for life. Also Superdave's sells bushings that are highly recommended. The only special tool I would recommend it a press. I bought a 12 ton press from harbor freight for about $85 with a coupon. It has more than paid for itself and works great for putting bushings in and for changing bearings.

When I did mine I just went ahead and changed all the ball joints (I used OEM) and did the wheel bearings (Bollax sells good quality replacements at UATV-Tech.com) and I would get a bearing greaser from him. It is unbelievable how dry the stick bearings are.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just my $.02,

Last year I did much of the work you described the dealer doing by myself. I am by no means a mechanic but it really isn't that difficult especially if you take some time and read on here. Plus while you are doing it if you have any issues post up a question and it usually gets answered pretty quickly. There is a great group of guys on here.

I highly recommend aftermarket UHMW bushings. I put Garage products on mine (shock bushings too). They are guaranteed for life. Also Superdave's sells bushings that are highly recommended. The only special tool I would recommend it a press. I bought a 12 ton press from harbor freight for about $85 with a coupon. It has more than paid for itself and works great for putting bushings in and for changing bearings.

When I did mine I just went ahead and changed all the ball joints (I used OEM) and did the wheel bearings (Bollax sells good quality replacements at UATV-Tech.com) and I would get a bearing greaser from him. It is unbelievable how dry the stick bearings are.

Steve

I'll definitely use Garage Products bushings over the factory bushings. Other than that I plan on staying with factory for the ball joints and wheel bearings. I'm real disappointed in the Rackboss steering rack with the first breaking in the first hour of riding and the second making it barely 50 hours. How many hours did your original bushings/bearings and bushings last?
 
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Just my $.02,

Last year I did much of the work you described the dealer doing by myself. I am by no means a mechanic but it really isn't that difficult especially if you take some time and read on here. Plus while you are doing it if you have any issues post up a question and it usually gets answered pretty quickly. There is a great group of guys on here.

I highly recommend aftermarket UHMW bushings. I put Garage products on mine (shock bushings too). They are guaranteed for life. Also Superdave's sells bushings that are highly recommended. The only special tool I would recommend it a press. I bought a 12 ton press from harbor freight for about $85 with a coupon. It has more than paid for itself and works great for putting bushings in and for changing bearings.

When I did mine I just went ahead and changed all the ball joints (I used OEM) and did the wheel bearings (Bollax sells good quality replacements at UATV-Tech.com) and I would get a bearing greaser from him. It is unbelievable how dry the stick bearings are.

Steve

I'll definitely use Garage Products bushings over the factory bushings. Other than that I plan on staying with factory for the ball joints and wheel bearings. I'm real disappointed in the Rackboss steering rack with the first breaking in the first hour of riding and the second making it barely 50 hours. How many hours did your original bushings/bearings and bushings last?
Ball joints definitely use OEM. As far as bearings, Bollax's are I believe Timken(I used his in mine this year when I replaced them....regardless, just make sure you grease them properly. There are several brands of bearing greasers for these units. You'll be amazed at just how much grease a new bearing with take.....upwards of 10 to 11 pumps.

Steve
 
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The rack is bad because of who makes it . Factory bushings suck as for the bearing being bad I would guess the bearing wound fail and destroy everything do to coming apart . Not destroy everything just cause the bearing is bad. So yes find someone to confirm what dealer is saying before allowing stealer to steal your money .
 

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Stealing is One thing that they would be very proficient at .
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The rack is bad because of who makes it . Factory bushings suck as for the bearing being bad I would guess the bearing wound fail and destroy everything do to coming apart . Not destroy everything just cause the bearing is bad. So yes find someone to confirm what dealer is saying before allowing stealer to steal your money .
Ace - Dealership told me that they suspect that the bushings wore out so quick (@15-20 hours) because of bad bearings/joints. Service guy had heard of Garage Products when I brought them up and critiqued factory bushings (will BRP care jump in now?).


As far as the rack, what a POS. Even when it was new and newly installed, it was not a precise and as tight as the factory rack. Shame that the factory rack and tie rods are not that strong.
 

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Lol no they won’t jump in they don’t care. I have beat a lot of bearings out and never once did it wear anything other than the brake pads . So to say a loose wheel bearing is going to bear the ball joints and arm bushings out is well I just can’t use the words I want to use . Lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Today, The dealership concluded that the problem iny Commands front end was the factory bushings being worn out (expecially those in the upper a arms).

The further recanted their part time tecs's opinion that I also needed wheel bearings, rack and pinion and ball joints. They say that the bearings and joints are fine.but that the SUPER ATV rack and pinion has excessive play in the inner tie rods.

Dealship installed Garage Products bushings and decided to now recommend them over OEM parts to their Polaris and all Can Am models. Dealership states that my SATV rack and pinion / inner tie rods (50 hrs of use) have excessive play. But that it's not a safety issue or that they are ready to fail..just loose inner tie rod play.

Now the dealership is pointing a finger at My Mander's wheel spacers. I use 1.5 inch STI spacers on each week to correct tippy feeling (body roll, prior soft suspension be for installation of RT pro 2 inch list). I know that any spacer will cause increased wear of some suspension products but I believe that it is minimal and not significant. Before I installed them and when BRP would speak to a mere customer, the factory tech told be not to worry on my late 2017 model and just not to exceed 3 inch spacers per wheel.

In the end the dealer stepped up and ate 3.2 hours of labor to install the bushings and ruled out bad wheel bearings or joints and everything tightened up and was properly aligned. No excessive play or movement in the joints and hubs.

Service Manager said the GP bushings appear to be far superior than stock a disconnect investigating what caused the bushing to wear out prematurely (tech? Bad bushings)

I know that is so long that I'll likely glaze some eyes over but value your thoughts.
 
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Well if there is excessive play in the inner joints they are bad . The spacers are bandaids for the mind . They do not stop the tippiness . Adding a wheel spacer does nothing to help fix weight transfer do to weak junk factory suspension springs . The oem arm bushings are junk have been from 2011 so you should be good for a while with the garage product brushings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ace, some of the suspension problems were mitigated with the RT lift (factory springs still). The spacers sure seemed to put that band aid on the buggy as far as an increased feeling of stability. Would you recommend taking off the front spacers?
 

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I'm running 1.5 spacers on my commander in my sig below. No problems. Installed the upgraded bushings, same time as lift and spacers (2016). All my other front end parts were fairly new at the time also. They show no signs of wear. Bearings good. Have Fox 2.0 shocks, stock springs. Yeah I know stock springs are not great. But with the lift and fully adjustable shocks. I can take a lot of preload off the spring and set the shocks so they handle a lot better.
Took the spacers off and drove for a while. Handles better with the spacers. Re: The rack. my Rackzilla steering rack has been bullet proof so far. Been in 4+ years.
 
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Ace, some of the suspension problems were mitigated with the RT lift (factory springs still). The spacers sure seemed to put that band aid on the buggy as far as an increased feeling of stability. Would you recommend taking off the front spacers?


My spacers ended up in Alaska after doing the springs . I also had a plus 3” long travel at one point with spacers and with the wrong springs I stayed on three and two wheels . At one point I was 74” wide . And now 58” front and rear with good springs . Way less tippy now than at 74”. You probably won’t notice any extra wear in anything and they do look good with the wiser stance . So if you like it run it. I was just stating that without good spring rates the skaters are more mental than a actual helper . And yes the rt lift does correct about 40% of the tippy .
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ace, some of the suspension problems were mitigated with the RT lift (factory springs still). The spacers sure seemed to put that band aid on the buggy as far as an increased feeling of stability. Would you recommend taking off the front spacers?


My spacers ended up in Alaska after doing the springs . I also had a plus 3” long travel at one point with spacers and with the wrong springs I stayed on three and two wheels . At one point I was 74” wide . And now 58” front and rear with good springs . Way less tippy now than at 74”. You probably won’t notice any extra wear in anything and they do look good with the wiser stance . So if you like it run it. I was just stating that without good spring rates the skaters are more mental than a actual helper . And yes the rt lift does correct about 40% of the tippy .

I do like the ride with the wheel spacers I was just concerned that they were causing excessive wear on the front end bushings and components. I might try removing the front wheel spacers and leaving the spacers on the rear. One bad side to using front spacers is that the front wheels start to sling mud past the extended mud guards.
 

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Just remember if you remove the fronts . The front will fit through and rear may not if your in a tight area .
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Just remember if you remove the fronts . The front will fit through and rear may not if your in a tight area .
That's a good point to remember. And I'm going to switch the SATV tie-rods and rack back to factory. They have been a total disaster (2nd set) from the beginning.
 
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I have around 5500 miles on my factory bearings. A-arm bushings need to be changed out with Garage Products before your first ride. OEM bushings are loose as stated above from the start. Don’t waste your time with factory bushings.
 
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