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At the dawn of Commander time, it was a somewhat common issue. The bolts used there were originally 10mm, then upgraded to 12mm. The worst part is, of course, removing the broken bolts. If threadlocker was used, you may need to use heat to facilitate removal. I believe loosening and subsequent movement is what led to failure. Some replaced with higher grade bolts, but I think replacement with use of loctite (red) was the ultimate fix.
 

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Once you get the bolts out they can be drilled then tapped to use the 12mm bolts. The bolts from dealer aren't cheap. But worth the money. I looked for them through bokt supply houses and no one had or could get them .


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Do not know where this is but from my experience, I would take the part off if possible to accomplish the task. If a part of frame and cannot be removed then remove all panels around it.
 

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High graded bolts seem to be made out of superior materials that do not rust. Stainless fasteners that will take the load are hard to find and expensive. A lot of stainless on market these days is too soft. Get a fully threaded bolt if you have to and shorten it as needed.
 

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The oem bolts are grade 8.8 flanged hex head. Was the other end of the torsion bar ok? If so, you could replace the broken ones with grade 10.9, which is about 30% stronger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
well 15 mm are in there now so took the part to a local machine shop they will fix it tomorrow i guess/I hope. anyone know the torque setting for these? hoping to get er back together tomorrow. thank ya all fo the help!
 

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well 15 mm are in there now so took the part to a local machine shop they will fix it tomorrow i guess/I hope. anyone know the torque setting for these? hoping to get er back together tomorrow. thank ya all fo the help!
15 mm? Is that a typo? Here's specs for the standard 10mm bolts. If you went with grade 10.9 or 12mm, I'll post those torque values.
Line Rectangle Font Parallel Diagram
 
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