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Discussion Starter #21
just curious. Why are you going to change out the stat with 4 holes, for one with only 2 ?
It bypass too much water and takes to long to warm up.

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just curious. Why are you going to change out the stat with 4 holes, for one with only 2 ?
It bypass too much water and takes to long to warm up.

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im a little confused.On my outlander the factory stat housing is in the top hose, in line with y. Your saying yours is in the bottom hose ? I know the spring side of the stat goes toward the engine, but on the top hoses at the y fitting to the heads right ?
 

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Commander stat is in bottom line at firewall going back to the engine not away from the engine . Bypass hose jumps straight over to top hose going to radiator.
 

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gotcha. I guess its different set up than atv. as long as its in line with the spring towards the engine. Think I should put mine in the top like the stock was ?
 

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So I have gotten a few questions from people regarding this picture. I deleted the oem can am thermostat bypass and used the two pieces in the pictures.
The brass elbow goes in place of where the thermostat was in the lower hose. The big round aluminum thing with the brass elbow out one end is the new inline thermostat housing. It is put in place of the t in the upper hose. It uses just a simple thermostat available at any parts store.
I installed a 160° tstat in it and drilled 4 3/32 holes around the perimeter to help keep water always flowing some. Now when I go to do my service this year and finally replace the plastic y at the I head I'm going to change out the tstat and only drill 2 holes.
So I got out and rode today and without the fan on always it seems to stay more consistent in the 3-4 bar range versus the 4-5 bar range. If I turn the fan on and leave it on just light trail riding it stays at 3 bars. Hard riding is where it bounces between 3-4 more but will stay with 4 bars more than 3.
One thing I did notice is it seems to have way more power when the temp gauge stays in the 3-4 range.
So yes I'm happy with it and definitely would recommend it to anyone else looking for a cooler running engine and in my mind a much snappy better running engine.
If someone wants more details or pictures I can probably get some one day this week.
Also here is the website
Custom Remote Thermostat Housing


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What did this setup wind up costing you??

Still think it's worth it??

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #30
So I have gotten a few questions from people regarding this picture. I deleted the oem can am thermostat bypass and used the two pieces in the pictures.
The brass elbow goes in place of where the thermostat was in the lower hose. The big round aluminum thing with the brass elbow out one end is the new inline thermostat housing. It is put in place of the t in the upper hose. It uses just a simple thermostat available at any parts store.
I installed a 160° tstat in it and drilled 4 3/32 holes around the perimeter to help keep water always flowing some. Now when I go to do my service this year and finally replace the plastic y at the I head I'm going to change out the tstat and only drill 2 holes.
So I got out and rode today and without the fan on always it seems to stay more consistent in the 3-4 bar range versus the 4-5 bar range. If I turn the fan on and leave it on just light trail riding it stays at 3 bars. Hard riding is where it bounces between 3-4 more but will stay with 4 bars more than 3.
One thing I did notice is it seems to have way more power when the temp gauge stays in the 3-4 range.
So yes I'm happy with it and definitely would recommend it to anyone else looking for a cooler running engine and in my mind a much snappy better running engine.
If someone wants more details or pictures I can probably get some one day this week.
Also here is the website
Custom Remote Thermostat Housing


Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

What did this setup wind up costing you??

Still think it's worth it??

Steve
Sorry I missed your post. I think the housing was about $100 I can't remember it's been so long.

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Hi, So where did you buy your 90° fittings @? I went to lowes & their 1" fittings are 1/4" smaller in diameter than the size implied on the package. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Hi, So where did you buy your 90° fittings @? I went to lowes & their 1" fittings are 1/4" smaller in diameter than the size implied on the package. Thanks.
Amazon or eBay. Pretty sure it was Amazon though

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So getting ready to finish up my conversion on my 14 outlander xt as well before firing it up. Is there any last minute things to look for or change? Thanks for the help.
 

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Actually those pic's are SIIG's from when he was showing his mav intake install. Only thing I will do and only if I have to work on the engine is give it a simple green bath and hose off and when done spray it down with cheap tire shine or silicone to help keep the plastic and rubber in supple shape. Here's the pic of the shortened support bar that gives extra clearance of glove box door

So why the delete button if you can't delete your post?
It's the middle of the day I've not been in the sauce I promise!!
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Here's a link to the website since a few people have had issues and the company phone number.

www.ipsco.org


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If you need any pics or statements about something not relevant let me know lol
 

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Discussion Starter #39
If you need any pics or statements about something not relevant let me know lol
A picture of acefire actually working. Is there even such thing?

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