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Discussion Starter #1
So I have gotten a few questions from people regarding this picture. I deleted the oem can am thermostat bypass and used the two pieces in the pictures.
The brass elbow goes in place of where the thermostat was in the lower hose. The big round aluminum thing with the brass elbow out one end is the new inline thermostat housing. It is put in place of the t in the upper hose. It uses just a simple thermostat available at any parts store.
I installed a 160° tstat in it and drilled 4 3/32 holes around the perimeter to help keep water always flowing some. Now when I go to do my service this year and finally replace the plastic y at the I head I'm going to change out the tstat and only drill 2 holes.
So I got out and rode today and without the fan on always it seems to stay more consistent in the 3-4 bar range versus the 4-5 bar range. If I turn the fan on and leave it on just light trail riding it stays at 3 bars. Hard riding is where it bounces between 3-4 more but will stay with 4 bars more than 3.
One thing I did notice is it seems to have way more power when the temp gauge stays in the 3-4 range.
So yes I'm happy with it and definitely would recommend it to anyone else looking for a cooler running engine and in my mind a much snappy better running engine.
If someone wants more details or pictures I can probably get some one day this week.
Also here is the website
Custom Remote Thermostat Housing


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I want one of these remote stat housings also


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Discussion Starter #4
i can't buy one with that link you provided.
Works just fine for me!! Just operator error.

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Discussion Starter #5

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Discussion Starter #6
One more thing Troy reminded me of.
Our radiator hoses in that area are all 1" so the brass elbow needs to be 1". The outlet on the housing is a 1" nipple and the inlet is 3/4" female npt.

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Discussion Starter #7
Is it just ace that can't open the link?

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
This is what you remove when you install the ipsco tstat housing.


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The brass 90 in the first picture goes in place of the big black tstat housing and the big aluminum new tstat housing goes where the plastic T was.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here is the three pictures I could get of the pieces Installed.


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Worked for me?

repost

NOT add page jumping BS has got my patience burned up!
Goose one of these days I will send you a batch of url's to block..

JT out!!
 

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tstat housing

So I have gotten a few questions from people regarding this picture. I deleted the oem can am thermostat bypass and used the two pieces in the pictures.
The brass elbow goes in place of where the thermostat was in the lower hose. The big round aluminum thing with the brass elbow out one end is the new inline thermostat housing. It is put in place of the t in the upper hose. It uses just a simple thermostat available at any parts store.
I installed a 160° tstat in it and drilled 4 3/32 holes around the perimeter to help keep water always flowing some. Now when I go to do my service this year and finally replace the plastic y at the I head I'm going to change out the tstat and only drill 2 holes.
So I got out and rode today and without the fan on always it seems to stay more consistent in the 3-4 bar range versus the 4-5 bar range. If I turn the fan on and leave it on just light trail riding it stays at 3 bars. Hard riding is where it bounces between 3-4 more but will stay with 4 bars more than 3.
One thing I did notice is it seems to have way more power when the temp gauge stays in the 3-4 range.
So yes I'm happy with it and definitely would recommend it to anyone else looking for a cooler running engine and in my mind a much snappy better running engine.
If someone wants more details or pictures I can probably get some one day this w


hey I bought an inline t stat housing, but Im told the system needs a bypass to keep water moving when the stat is closed. Do you think the 2 small holes drilled is euff flow too lube pump impeller and prevent impeller cavitation ? Im over the heat ! LOL Ive got a outlander 1000 xmr
 

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stat housing

hey I bought an inline t stat housing, but Im told the system needs a bypass to keep water moving when the stat is closed. Do you think the 2 small holes drilled is euff flow too lube pump impeller and prevent impeller cavitation ? Im over the heat ! LOL Ive got a outlander 1000 xmr
 

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Block off the bypass . If your worried about the flow drill a 1/4 bleed in the outer ring of the thermostat.
 

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I did drill two small 7/64 holes. Will that be big enuff ? Seems like drilling holes too big would defeat the purpose of a tstat. Opinions wanted
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I did drill two small 7/64 holes. Will that be big enuff ? Seems like drilling holes too big would defeat the purpose of a tstat. Opinions wanted
Sounds perfect!! Just start it make and make sure you feel the upper hose slowly start to get warmer.

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The factory stat bypasses the motor completely til engine gets warm. So with the bypass gone all water has to flow through engine back to the radiator.
 
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