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Well I worn out my first 1/4" Am Steel Winch cable so this time I went back with a 5/16" Am Steel cable with a crush proof ring and one heavy duty hook. The only thing was that I had to cut 10' off the cable length to get it to fit on the spool. Oh I forgot to put the cable thru the custom slice fairlead so had to put the roller back on I didn't want to take the thing all the way apart again. We use our winch about 3 to 4 times or more every outting mostly pulling my buddies out and myself a time or two.
Here's a couple pics.

Cleck to enlarge
View attachment 5214
View attachment 5215

I would highly suggest going back to an aluminum fairlead, I know they are a pain to change, but the rollers have a tendency to bind, once they have dirt in them, also the are very easy to bend on a rock, limb or even on a trailer.

Is there anything your rope is rubbing against as it is going to the winch?

When you step up a diameter in rope you do loose a certain amount of rope capacity on the drum.
 

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Ok guys. Removed my stock fairlead and spooled on all my synthetic rope.

Drilled the holes in the custom splice fairlead a little bigger to accomodate the stock allen bolts.

My question is.....How the heck can you get the nuts on the inside of the allen bolts with the custom splice fairlead?

The slot in the customsplice fairlead is not real big. Hard to work with. I see no other way to get a wrench on the inside of the fairlead to tighten those nuts....

Any pointers or tips would be appreciated....
I have a 800xt that I changed to a synthetic rope on as well, I had the hardest time trying to get the wrench in behind the plastic grill and at the same time trying get the nut started without it falling out of the wrench. Because the plastic grill is held on by the fair lead, I traced the shape of the fairlead on to the plastic grill. I then took my dreamil with a thin cut off wheel and took my time and trimed the plastic grill to slide right over the fair lead. That way I was able to bolt up the fair lead then slide my plastic grill on over it without all the hassle. After I was finished you can not even tell what I did. And it all still looks factory!
I hope this helps.
 

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hunting721. That sounds like a good idea. I eventually managed to get mine on.....thankfully I have small hands and I can be stubborn at times......I used a magnet to hold the nut in place until I got the bolt threaded on.....then I managed to get a very small box end wrench on it from the inside so I could get it tightened up.

This is not something I would want to do on a regular basis.....too bad those nuts weren't welded in place on the inside. Oh well.......nothing is easy.

LoL.. If I have to do it again, I will probably use your approach.
 

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Thanks for the reply. It is a 2012 800 XT.

I am not sure of exact manufacture date. I will have a look and see if I can get a picture as well. What I am trying to get a picture of?
What Bolts did they use?
Did you figure it out?
on other models we have done it was easiest to remove the front plastic.
Allen head bolts should have the head facing forward and you should be able to get a Box End Wrench on the nut, and tighten down the Allen from the front.
It was the allen key bolts.

With a little patience, I managed to hold the nut in place on the inside with a magnet enough to get the threads started.....I then managed to get a small box end wrench on the nut from the inside.
 

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Crowsfoot socket is the key to changing the fairlead. Learned that the hard way. And don't forget to get a rubber stopper to stop the hook from dinging the new fairlead. Also learned that the hard way.
 

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I was using a roller Fairlead with my Amsteel and broke it twice, so i went back to a steel cable. I really like the advantages of the SYN however breking is not one of them.
 

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Go with a solid aluminum fairlead and rubber bumper and you will never go back to steel.
 

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jdavid1:

Can you explain in more detail how you use the crowfoot socket?

How do you get it inside and onto the nut? through the fairlead?
 
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