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So this is being done for stability more than anything. Giving the machine a longer wheel base? Has anyone figured out if it works with the Ltd. stock air suspension and Racer Tec springs and 2" lift? I'd imagine since your only changing axles the rest would work?

Also someone mentioned about moving the Diff 1" back? How big of a project was that and did you have to extend the drive axle? Lol havent looked but imagine it's equipped with one?

Big thing is $$ verses gain?
I'm not sure about moving the rear differential and I don't know why it would be A problem running it on the limited. Unless airlines would be a problem the rear shock bottom mount gets moved back a few inches this is why I want to add a lift in the rear to push top of shock back to make up for what I lost instead of cranking my shocks all the way down. moving trailing arm back did help in climbing, crawling around, stability The main reason I did it to get my tires towards the rear box so I'm not beating up in ditches. If there's anything I can do to help make your decision pictures or questions just let me know
 

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I've been looking at these for months and I just can't bring myself to buy a set. The point that is going to see the most stress is in the middle of the arm where the shock mount is and that is where these have the least material and dimension. They also require a lift to make the machine sit level when all they had to do was raise/lengthen the shock mounting bracket or include the lift in the kit. I'm just going to make my own using the ends from a stock set and use all the great advice on here about the axles.

Thanks for everybody's input. You guys made for a wealth of information on this topic!
 

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SAtv rear trailing arm wheel bearings after 165 miles I would recommend putting new bearings in before use
 

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165 miles and new wheel bearings..are you serious? what a joke..
 

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my stockers are looking pretty good right now..might have to ride some tonight
 

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I think I asked this before but did everyone put the plastic steering stops in the gear box .... I did and mine turns like a school bus I didn't know if I could take them out would I have problems
 

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Yea cheep!! I trail ride no mud in this thing that's what the atv is for and run stock tire size I do not have stops in the steering I have no problems
 

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You Dont need the front or rear arms to run 30's. The racer tech springs and lift would be more than enough for them.
He borrowed my buddies 28" Terms, and they rubbed under compression while turning. Thats why he was thinking about getting the kit. Would give extra room all around......BUT if you think the RT kit would solve all the problems, that'd be much cheaper and easier!
I ran 30's with just racer tech springs no lift. It would still rub in certain situations but, nothing like the factory springs though. Wheel offset makes a big difference as well .
JBee, Can you send or post some close up pics of your rig please? I like the look/stance as it appears in your avatar but it is too small for me to examine closely. Sorry, I'm a newbie to the forum. By the way, I'm in the McKinney, TX. area as well. Where do you ride locally?

thanks,
JBC
 

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thats crazy have 1400 miles on my rear bearings,
 

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2800 on mine and going strong...will change them out when i do the 2 inch stretch at the end of the riding season
 

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So the setup that seems to work the best is SATV +4 Trailing arms, 2" bracket lift front and rear, SATV 2.5" high clearance A-Arms, extended HD tie rods and a set of axles 5/8" longer than stock on all 4 corners? If so will 30" tires clear no problem? I have ordered a Catvos 4" kit and SATV 6" kit and ive ended up cancelling both due to reviews.
 

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Stock, no lift 15 Mander with forward and rear super ATV arms, besides the cobra axles, is there anything else I need to order? Thanks in advance


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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New bearings for the trailing arms they are junk I had to replace the within 50 miles they fell apart
 
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