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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It pulls great from a dead stop but when I hit about 35mph the engine revs for just a second without the speed increasing but then smoothly accelerates. No jerking, no burning rubber smell. At any point above that I get the same reaction if I punch the throttle. If I'm running, say, 10mph and punch it, it pulls strong until I hit 35 or so. I marked the primary sheaves and tried it several times. The marks are still lined up. The only groove on the sheave is way down low and it's very slight. The levers look ok and seem to be working freely. Buttons have some wear as does the area where they slide...but nothing I'd call severe. Recent work has been a new helix and inner secondary sheave, primary engagement spring and Redline belt...but I noticed this happening to a lesser degree before I did any of that.
When I'm just cruising around it runs great but I have a feeling if I got in mud or attempted to climb something I'd have a serious problem. I'm stumped.
 

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It's in the secondary. For what ever reason it's hanging at 35 then shifting on out. Pull secondary back off inspect everything real good. Helix the wear sleeve in the middle. Sounds like then new spring has made it worse than old spring. I'm guessing it's the wear band hanging.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. Tell me more about the wear sleeve. The only thing I remember being in there is what Partzilla calls the "torque gear". Is this what you mean? If so, you may be on to something as I recall thinking that the pulley didn't slide all that smoothly on it. The helix and rear sheave are new...(less than 20 miles)
 

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I think he's talking about this. It's supposedly not replaceable, but someone here has....I think slowindown.
secondary bushing.jpg
 

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Yes number one if they get enough wear they can wedge sideways. Allowing belt to slip them it centers back up and goes on. Like nothing happened.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So the bushing in the rear sheave in cannedham's picture?...or the torque gear thing? The sheave is brand new so I wouldn't think it would be the problem...and it was doing it to some degree with the old sheave.
What you describe sounds like what's happening since there is no burnt rubber smell or any unusual noises occurring at the time. It just revs up then back down smoothly once it hooks up.
 

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It looks like both sheaves have a bushing. Are you running big heavy tires with a roof and windshield?
secondary bushings2.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Stock Bighorns, SATV split windshield and EMT roof. I see what you're saying about the bushings. I'll definitely take a look there when I take it back apart. The bushing on the primary had something on it that felt almost sticky so this one may well also. I cleaned it off with brake kleen and lacquer thinner and shined it a little. Hope this one can be cleaned up and saved if it's not something readily available.
 

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Yes I actually had the outer sheave get stuck on the shaft .

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Ok...looking at cannedham's exploded picture of the transmission I see another issue. I know for a fact that mine had no retaining ring on the torque gear. When I pulled the clutch apart the torque gear was loose on the inner sheave. I cleaned it and just stuck it in the outer sheave and slid it all together when I reinstalled the clutch assembly. I assume the ring is there for a reason, no? I bought it used with a little over 2K miles (4.5K now) and had never had the secondary apart before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
An update. The old torque gear showed some wear and seemed to hang up when I tried sliding the sheave up and down on the workbench. The new one moved smoothly so I assumed I'd found the problem. But I hadn't. Put it back together and the problem was unchanged. It still slipped when accelerating at around 35mph. I thought back to when the problem really began to it's current extreme and determined it was when I changed the helix so I took it back apart. I had an original helix (not the destroyed one) that was changed out a couple years ago but not really worn terribly. I noticed the new one was taller, then realized there was a ledge on the inside about 1/4" tall where the spring sat and a hole for the newer style spring. The original helix had no such ledge and no hole. Sitting side by side on the workbench I put the spring in each and measured all the way through to the bench. Measuring to the top of the spring, the new one was a little over 1/4" taller overall. Compressing a spring an extra 1/4 inch when it was already compressed a great deal seems like it would add a lot of pressure. For the heck of it, I put it back together using the older helix. The problem was now gone completely. I'm assuming it created too much pressure opening the sheaves. So it seems I should just order the original style helix...but I'm finding some places that say the old number (420280470) is no longer available and is subbed to the newer style one (420280472). I think my new inner sheave has the hole for the new spring but I've heard it really doesn't help much and makes the assembly harder to install. I'm scratching my head trying to decide what to do. I think I'd rather just have an original style helix but I'm afraid if I order one I'll get the new style. I sent an email to Partzilla asking if the old number is available but haven't heard back yet.
 

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I wonder if the newer style spring is shorter than the old. If so, that would be the fix to work with your newer helix/inner combo. Or try cutting the old spring down?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The newer style spring would work just fine but it has the tabs on each end to insert into the holes in the helix and inner sheave and I can't remember if my inner sheave has the necessary hole. Also, I've read that you have to twist it a certain amount while installing the clutch in order to "clock" it to make it all work correctly. Putting the secondary clutch on by myself is somewhat of a trick to do (mainly due to the air compressor thing being in the way) so I'd really prefer to find an old style helix.
 

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Helix isn't no biggie only difference between old and new Is the hole. I ran 12 spring in my 13 from 400 miles to 4600 no issues .
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It's not working for me. The raised ledge is making the spring too stiff to let the sheave spread out. I'm wondering if maybe the previous owner put a stronger than stock spring in there. Either way, I think my simplest solution is to find an old style helix...or maybe see if the local machine shop can remove the ledge. At least I found what was causing the problem. Fixing it from here should be doable.
 

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If the helix is dimensionally the same as the old, why not remove the ledge yourself with a Dremel?
 

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I would switch the spring. That little bit of ledge isn't going to increase the spring rate enough to cause what's going on. You got pics of the ledge it's been so long I don't remember a ledge on my 13. I do remember the 12 spring came with a plastic washer that was between the helix and the spring . But the plastic washer would have made the ledge even taller . And my 12 spring was stiffer than factory spring being it was in a Holtz clutch kit .
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I hear what you're saying but I know the clutch was noticeably easier to install once I switched the helix. In my search for answers I had read a long ago thread (don't remember if it was from here or elsewhere) where someone switched back to the stock spring on their secondary because the heavier one they tried made the sheave not want to move at higher speeds. I've wrestled with this long enough that I'm just happy that it works and gonna go from here. Here's a pic of the inside of the Helix I removed showing the "ledge".
66748
 

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I don't remember my 13 having that step . Seems like it was all flat in center and hole for the spring . So yes I see what you are taking about now. I just looked the helix up on several different sites. Only one available from can am is the one with the hole for the spring. 472 is last three in part number. That's 11-17 then 18 up is 474.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yeah...the one ending in 470 is the one I'm looking for. I suppose another possibility would be to order the 13 spring and cut off and grind smooth the tab that would go into the inner sheave and leave the tab that goes into the helix. Or I might run it by the machine shop and see what they say. One of the guys there is into SxS's and he might help me out. Again, I'm just glad the end is in sight for the problem. Thanks for the help.
 
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