drivers side on the side, very bottom of diff.(access from side, not bottom) a real pain in the ass unless you have the long allens on a socket, break it loose first or your bad luck will continue with a broken allen, and on your front diff use excatly the required amount (17 oz for front) i think or it will leak out from around the bellow. hope that helps

you do have the correct fluid for the front dont you? it is diff from the rear

 

drivers side on the side, very bottom of diff. a real pain in the ass unless you have the long allens on a socket, break it loose first or your bad luck will continue with a broken allen, and on your front diff use excatly the required amount (17 oz for front) i think or it will leak out from around the bellow. hope that helps

you do have the correct fluid for the front dont you? it is diff from the rear

its the same front and rear if you are using amsoil 75w140

 

if it was up your a$$ you would know where it was

 

the front is 75w90
the rear and main case are 75w140

not sure if it matters, but that is what the manual says :icon_wink:

 

read your manual again and see what it says about synthetic

 

OC i thought you purchased the cd manual too...?

 

I DID, it SUCKED!

Mark

 

Any oil experts out there? My understanding of multigrade would indicate that the 75 140 would be appropriate for all cases as it covers the range required by each case! Please chime in and tell me I am wrong if you have a better understanding of the multigrade specs.

 

No, because different diffs have different needs for viscosity. Perhaps the front diff doesn’t reach as hot temps as the rear so it doesn’t need anything as thick as a 140 whereas the rear diff for example gets really hot, then it’ll need a thicker oil of say 140.

Point is, you really shouldn’t use either one opposite of what is required. The diff that gets really hot and needs thick oil when get it gets hot wont be satisfied using a 75-90 and likewise, the diff that runs cooler and needs only oil of a 90 viscosity will have too thick an oil in it if it uses 75-140.


HOWEVER, if both diffs in winter only require a thickness of 70 viscosity, then as long as it’s cool, you could use either because that’s the as thin as either oil will get.


Man, I’m going to bed... my brain is hurting tonight.

 

OC, you have the Can am skids too right?? If so, just so you know, the access hole in the front skid for the diff is in the wrong place. You have to take that skid off and re drill it with a 1 inch hole saw bit. Here is a thread that really goes into how to change it. You will see what I was talking about on the second page. I ran into the same problem. There is a lot of pics in there as well. Anyway, here's the link, hope it helps ya. http://www.commanderforums.org/foru....org/forums/commander-performance-modifications/1035-gear-box-oil-change-2.html

 

Again remember I am an Aircraft and bike mechanic. But as I understand multivis oil the rating is temperature based. So If you need 75-90 wt based upon the temperature the gearbox operates at then a 75-140 will provide the 75-90 wt required. The higher 90-140,characteristics only come into play as the temps go up.

 

Then why did you ask? I’m confused.

:wacko:

OC, you have the Can am skids too right?? If so, just so you know, the access hole in the front skid for the diff is in the wrong place. You have to take that skid off and re drill it with a 1 inch hole saw bit. Here is a thread that really goes into how to change it.

Yeah, I already marked the spot.

 

The freekin manual says 75 140 if synthetic look at the foot notes for front and back

 

 

i just found that in my manual 56 i had not seen it so i called amsoil and was told to put 75w140 in front and back that it would make the visco lock work better.. Now for the kicker everybody... He explained to me that the manual was printed that way before can am started buying amsoil to put in there machines and that 75w140 is what is in all of them leaving the factory now

 

Good lord..... still want to video changing? Sounds like a complete PITA.

 

Good lord..... still want to video changing? Sounds like a complete PITA.

I am blessed that way.... :wacko:


Absolutely... we'll do it.

Mark

 

OK so OC is still hard at it trying to change the tranny oil now. I have to say.... as the previous owner of the manuals of Suzuki, Honda and Kawasaki machines this manual on CD from fee-bay sucks. I have been texting him photos out of the manual and man..... what is the other plug on the bottom of the engine about 3 inches from the oil drain plug? Is there a photo or schematic of the bottom of the engine anywhere to be found? WTF man. I hope to haul my machine to OC's as soon as I can and I can shoot the OC how to remove the factory skids what is needed are there rivets etc, doing the diffs and the tranny etc. This is WAY to hard. One plus of the Teryx is it is WAY EASY to maintain the oils compared to the Commander. FOR SURE! SHIT man!!

 

I hope to haul my machine to OC's as soon as I can and I can shoot the OC how to remove the factory skids what is needed are there rivets etc, doing the diffs and the tranny etc.

Don't forget you bikini....OC promised

:icon_wink:

 

you shouldnt have to remove any of the factory skids, im not sure on the optional brp ones.

 

just adding my signature

 

Is the rear differential solid? I stated that wrong, if it is a differential, it would not be solid. If the rear end is solid with only a ring and pinion, no spiders, then a heavier viscosity oil would be okay. If it is cold then you may possibly need a need a lighter oil in front to make the Visco-loc work. The front may work better with a higher viscosity oil hot weather. I know that a multi-v oil is supposed to cover a wide range of temps, but GL 140 will get thin when it is hot.
I do not think there are two different oils in the front end, as from photos I have seen, there seems to be only one sump. Check before the fires start flaming. I am new here, and not the sharpest knife in the drawer, by all accounts.
Most heavy construction machines use a 50W non-detergent oil plus additives. Nothing concrete on my part, just guessing. My machine has not been picked up yet, even though it was to be in yesterday. I have not seen a manual yet, only parts of pages that have been on posts. Will keep riding the Kubota for a few more days.

 

Is the rear differential solid? QUOTE]

Yes, the rear is solid. Technically speaking, the rear is not a differential at all, just a gear box.

 

You paid 16k + for your commander and you won't pay the dealer $ 120.00 + for a complete manual.///////// Shoe

 

No, I couldn't... it wasn't available when I purchased my Commander. Look at the freakin' date. They were on national backorder at the time.

And not to mention (had you read even the first page of the thread) that Can Am screwed up on didn't put the drain plug hole in the skids in the proper location therefore completely hiding the access hole.


:wacko:

 

Holy hell! I can't believe there were 4 pages for this simple minded question.

 

So what size Allen wrench is being used. 3/16 to loose 5 mm is to tight

 

Ha Ha, glad you dropped by Orange!! Hows your RZR holding up? Can't imagine what you've done to it by now.

 

Hey bud, how ya doing? Everything's great on my end. Yeah, I've modded the rzr a bit.

Here's a pic.

Still have the Commander seats and wheels. Only thing stock on it is the engine. (I'm trying desperately to keep it that way)

Hope things are going well. How's your Commander doing?


Mark

 

Mark is trying his hardest to keep up with me, and out of the ditches haha ill see you in april buddy!!

 

Okay, okay... ya fall into ditch one time .....LOL


Mark

 

HAHA that was a hell of a ride, im glad you did! Gave me a chance to throw back a beer or 2 while we were gettin you out of there!

 

Stan,

Hey bud... how’s it going? There’s a ride on the Rzr forum going on in March or April (I think April) at Glamis.

I’m trying to work it out to drive out there... Just kind of a looong drive.

If I make it, I’ll be sure to let ya’ll know.

Mark

 

Hey Orangecrush; Its good to hear from you. Your RZR looks great. Looks like you want to roll it a few times with that roll cage.

 

I've tried... trust me....lol. Apparently not hard enough!

Mark