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Discussion Starter #1
I'm installing a clutch kit tonight, everything is good to go except getting the secondary clutch cover back on. It lack 1/16 of an inch from prying it against the exhaust to the bolt. Is there a trick to this or am i going to remove the exhaust from the commander? I'm in the middle of it right now!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
My mistake

Not the cover the actual secondary clutch itself
 

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Not the cover the actual secondary clutch itself
Does not sound like it is fully seated and properly positioned on the helix,
You need a buddy to push and hold it in place while you snug up the bolt, you should be able to throw a cat between the secondary & the exhaust pipe if it is correctly seated.
Be careful there are cogs on the secondary that have to line up as well, if it is a Dalton re study instructions, other NFI
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I can't get it on the bolt to push it up. It's getting stuck against the exhaust. It's an epi clutch kit. Does that mean the nuts came off and I left the bolt in? How do u suggest getting that bolt out?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mine had 2 nuts on the end and left the secondary clutch bolt inside the helix
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I got it. There's two nuts on a bolt that goes through into my secondary clutch from the housing itself. The shaft was in the secondary clutch itself. I pulled the shaft out of the clutch and put it back on the bolt. The secondary slid up. Took 2 times to make sure it was on the helix right but I was able to pry it in myself and tighten the bolt down to spec. It has a secondary safety nut on the outside of that. I was so confused with the shaft coming out with the clutch, the video and the directions said to pull the bolt out. My bolt in my secondary didn't have a head but two sided female ends. When the shaft slid on the bolt the clutch was able to slide onto the shaft. My secondary bolt never came out with the installation. It went back into place. I'm able to take the supplied belt removal bolt and open the clutch as normal and turning it in reverse a few times put the belt back the way it was suppose to be and tighter. Your the guys with the clutch fix aren't you? I've read it was better than buying a new primary or clutch kit itself. I really appreciate you taking the time to try and help. I was confused myself so explaining the issue was a bust.
 

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You are talking like you have a stud on your secondary not the normal bolt like they come with . The MAV units have the stud update but I didn't think the commanders did
 

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I got it. There's two nuts on a bolt that goes through into my secondary clutch from the housing itself. The shaft was in the secondary clutch itself. I pulled the shaft out of the clutch and put it back on the bolt. The secondary slid up. Took 2 times to make sure it was on the helix right but I was able to pry it in myself and tighten the bolt down to spec. It has a secondary safety nut on the outside of that. I was so confused with the shaft coming out with the clutch, the video and the directions said to pull the bolt out. My bolt in my secondary didn't have a head but two sided female ends. When the shaft slid on the bolt the clutch was able to slide onto the shaft. My secondary bolt never came out with the installation. It went back into place. I'm able to take the supplied belt removal bolt and open the clutch as normal and turning it in reverse a few times put the belt back the way it was suppose to be and tighter. Your the guys with the clutch fix aren't you? I've read it was better than buying a new primary or clutch kit itself. I really appreciate you taking the time to try and help. I was confused myself so explaining the issue was a bust.
Glad you got it figured out,
one note is that our MOD is not the same as the kit you have or any of the other after market kits like Dalton or Holtz.
Even with those kits the clutch will slip. our mod makes all the kits work better.
They control shift out, rpm etc, our mod gets all the power to the ground, eliminates excessive heat build up, belt slipping & burning etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You are talking like you have a stud on your secondary not the normal bolt like they come with . The MAV units have the stud update but I didn't think the commanders did
It's brand new. I've had it around three weeks now. I seen how much trouble everyone had with the kits and the secondary. Some say they needed two people and two pry bars. I'm gonna be honest it slid on and I used a short pry bar with my right hand and put the nut on with my left. Once I figured out the bolt and shaft thing it took no time. I Workout everyday but I don't think it was me lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I got it. There's two nuts on a bolt that goes through into my secondary clutch from the housing itself. The shaft was in the secondary clutch itself. I pulled the shaft out of the clutch and put it back on the bolt. The secondary slid up. Took 2 times to make sure it was on the helix right but I was able to pry it in myself and tighten the bolt down to spec. It has a secondary safety nut on the outside of that. I was so confused with the shaft coming out with the clutch, the video and the directions said to pull the bolt out. My bolt in my secondary didn't have a head but two sided female ends. When the shaft slid on the bolt the clutch was able to slide onto the shaft. My secondary bolt never came out with the installation. It went back into place. I'm able to take the supplied belt removal bolt and open the clutch as normal and turning it in reverse a few times put the belt back the way it was suppose to be and tighter. Your the guys with the clutch fix aren't you? I've read it was better than buying a new primary or clutch kit itself. I really appreciate you taking the time to try and help. I was confused myself so explaining the issue was a bust.
Glad you got it figured out,
one note is that our MOD is not the same as the kit you have or any of the other after market kits like Dalton or Holtz.
Even with those kits the clutch will slip. our mod makes all the kits work better.
They control shift out, rpm etc, our mod gets all the power to the ground, eliminates excessive heat build up, belt slipping & burning etc.
I'd like to purchase the mod. What is the next step I need to take?
 

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Look under OEM clutch fix and we will get you set up . Or give bollax a pm and get the old fella out of bed haha
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm going to be honest and say that this epi clutch kit didn't change how my commander performs. I was expecting it to gear it down a little bit and have more torque in low and mid range rpms and it's almost exactly as it was before I added it. I don't like how the commander has that clunk as its pulling out and going into gear at very low rpms. It's done that since the first mile on the utv. I'm guess there's no way around that? Almost sounds like there's slack in it. I bought the epi sport utility clutch because I like to ride trails and I added the severe duty belt by them as well. I've read all the horror stories about belt wear. After 80 miles my factory belt still looks brand new and no wear. So putting in the utility clutch and belt to help with belt wear may not have been the best idea. Should I have put the mudder clutch kit in my commander to get a noticeable difference in low and mid range rpms? I was hoping to gear it down more. The 28" mega Mayhems bog it down a little.
 

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I'm going to be honest and say that this epi clutch kit didn't change how my commander performs. I was expecting it to gear it down a little bit and have more torque in low and mid range rpms and it's almost exactly as it was before I added it. I don't like how the commander has that clunk as its pulling out and going into gear at very low rpms. It's done that since the first mile on the utv. I'm guess there's no way around that? Almost sounds like there's slack in it. I bought the epi sport utility clutch because I like to ride trails and I added the severe duty belt by them as well. I've read all the horror stories about belt wear. After 80 miles my factory belt still looks brand new and no wear. So putting in the utility clutch and belt to help with belt wear may not have been the best idea. Should I have put the mudder clutch kit in my commander to get a noticeable difference in low and mid range rpms? I was hoping to gear it down more. The 28" mega Mayhems bog it down a little.
Bet the OEM clutch is slipping. ?
Take off the CVT cover, mark the inner & outer sheaves in a straight line,
Take it out for a ride, hammer it, (with the CVT cover back on for safety)
If the marks do not line up when you get back, Pm me>>>>

It is not just the clutch kit, the kit cannot perform if the belt is slipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That would mean it's been slipping since I put the first mile on it. What a shitty setup. I'll do it tomorrow and pm u. I'll take pics before and after. Since its 3 weeks old wouldn't it be covered under warranty?
 

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That would mean it's been slipping since I put the first mile on it. What a shitty setup. I'll do it tomorrow and pm u. I'll take pics before and after. Since its 3 weeks old wouldn't it be covered under warranty?
Not a slipping clutch, I doubt it.
Be careful they might void your whole warranty if they see the mods you have done.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I don't expect to have a warranty anyway. My dealer has a bad rep of taking pictures and sending them to can am and making the customer pay to get his ride back after he said it would be covered.'closest one within 3 hrs so what do u do? Lol I'll check the clutch out and pm u. I've read your clutch mod is better than buying a new primary. After I ride next weekend I'm sending it to you anyway. If it's slipping and broken I'm sending it sooner than later. Lol I appreciate your help and the forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If I dint turn that secondary enough to reset the belt would that give me the same effect?
 

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Our clutch lockup mod and a mav belt do wonders for any machine
 
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