Can-Am Commander Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
2015 Can Am Commander 800R
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2015 Commander 800 R XT. Previous owners had lifted with 32" tires. I just replaced a rear shaft. I stuck my finger into the differential and got a little of what seemed to be black grease. This would not be the stock lubricant I suspect and it was stiff like grease from grease gun. Anyone have any idea what this might be?
When putting the extra load of larger tires on components is there a recognized better grease/lubricant to be used instead of the standard 75w90 and 75W140 synthetic gear lubes?
I have given it a short test run confirming the new rear axle, wheel bearing, and wheel hub work.Did not notice any strange noises but was not listening closely. Also now wonder what is in other gear boxes.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,013 Posts
That would be a first for me . There's gotta be some oil in there. The pinion would never last more than a short period of time. Unless that grease is so thin it would liquefy when Temp goes up. Buy still don't see it lasting long . I would pull the drain plug and see if any oil comes out.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,314 Posts
Sounds to me like someone filled a noisy diff with grease to quiet it. That's not what's supposed to be in there, but theoretically, I could see it working. I used to work on Tajima multi-head embroidery machines, and the gear assemblies were packed with grease. You might want to check your gearbox.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,824 Posts
If someone put ws2 in there, it’ll make the oil look like crap. But not grease. But black with fine particles. I use ws2 (tungsten disulfide) in my gearbox and rear diff. Don’t put it in front diff. Great stuff and lots and lots of people use it in commanders. Highly touted…

If I ever sell my commander and didn’t tell the new owner it would probably scare the crap out of them when they changed the fluid.
 

·
Registered
2015 Can Am Commander 800R
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That would be a first for me . There's gotta be some oil in there. The pinion would never last more than a short period of time. Unless that grease is so thin it would liquefy when Temp goes up. Buy still don't see it lasting long . I would pull the drain plug and see if any oil comes out.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
Pulling fill and drain plugs was next. Hoping to get ahead of it. In conversation with previous owner at purchase it seemed he was a NAPA fan. So many alternatives these days.
 

·
Registered
2015 Can Am Commander 800R
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sounds to me like someone filled a noisy diff with grease to quiet it. That's not what's supposed to be in there, but theoretically, I could see it working. I used to work on Tajima multi-head embroidery machines, and the gear assemblies were packed with grease. You might want to check your gearbox.
I have noticed a lot of complaining about noisy diff. I did not do a deep dive to find cures. I too have seen such machine gear systems packed with various grease. I can only hope engineering was properly tested in those situations. But with diff or side drive gear boxes I have never seen anything but heavy oil. Thanks for input.
 

·
Registered
2015 Can Am Commander 800R
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If someone put ws2 in there, it’ll make the oil look like crap. But not grease. But black with fine particles. I use ws2 (tungsten disulfide) in my gearbox and rear diff. Don’t put it in front diff. Great stuff and lots and lots of people use it in commanders. Highly touted…

If I ever sell my commander and didn’t tell the new owner it would probably scare the crap out of them when they changed the fluid.
Now we may be on to something. Yep, I am a bit rattled. Newb when it comes to buggies. Bought machine knowing it needed rear axle and bearing. Test drove in 4WD because the inner joint on that axle was busted. He told me it took standard length axles, cheap ones would do. Coolant and oil was fresh. But then started double checking and when I posted it had SuperATV small lift, with extended rear arms, and offset arms on front I was getting all sorts of responses saying I needed extra length shafts of various sizes. Worked myself into tizzy figuring that out.
Tear down was easy but surprise. Splines totally stripped at outer end of shaft and from the wheel hub. Ordered used one. Gee it don't look exactly same. Parts break down not real clear either. Closer examination reveals extra washers at outer surface of wheel hub held in place with black RTV. And the seal meant for front inner side is here. The wear sleeve in parts is not there. I also received one of those rings with the new all balls axle for the outer joint.
I question this elsewhere in the forum and opinion was a lot of users do not use them because grass etc gets caught and tangled. So I opt not to put it on the shaft. Assembly is much more difficult.
I got the bearing in. I bought that two o-ring grease tool. It don't fit. It is maybe 1mm to big. Verified with other bearings. Foresight with possibly adding grease to other wheel bearing without total shaft removal I also ordered the one from Bevel Engineering. It slides in place over the shaft end.
The shaft did not want to go in and it appeared I would need to drop the trailing arm. I did not have parts break down and when I turned nut I see the bolt turn. It appears to be a blind bolt. Now having looked at parts it appears removing sway bar reveals bolt head. But by not putting either end fully in I was able to start into diff. (it was prior that I stuck my finger in and found that black grease and now have that tormenting my mind as I fight the axle into place with a bearing that did not get the extra grease intended)
Reassemble and stop at add wheel hub. Bevel Engineer grease tool slides right in. Pump grease until I see it coming to inside. Install wheel hub but find once tight the nut is past cotter pin use. Old hub with RTV and two washers, one being oversized, is not truly informative. But that now extra washer for install allowed cotter pin to work. Just add wheel right? And that used hub came with chrome dome nuts so I solved the problem of one missing when I started. NOPE! These wheels require a special skinny nut. But that is small deal compared to any other surprises I might find.
Next step, research WS2. Thanks.
Has anyone found better lubes than OEM? That seems to be a tough call, except price.
I ran across where it looked like BRP was changing from old coolant to the orange, circa 2014. If that is DexCool I would rather stay away and use one of the newer alternatives. Massive number of law suits related to DexCool. More on that later, another thread.
 

·
Registered
2015 Can Am Commander 800R
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If someone put ws2 in there, it’ll make the oil look like crap. But not grease. But black with fine particles. I use ws2 (tungsten disulfide) in my gearbox and rear diff. Don’t put it in front diff. Great stuff and lots and lots of people use it in commanders. Highly touted…

If I ever sell my commander and didn’t tell the new owner it would probably scare the crap out of them when they changed the fluid.
I did a bit of research on WS2 now that I am aware. The videos I saw it seemed to turn the gear oil gray not coal black. The stuff sounds like a great idea at least for gear boxes that don't have limited slip. I had already looked at several gear box oils trying to determine if one might be better than the other for application, gear box or limited slip diff. Ingredients are rather secret and a little hard to choose. BRP and all others claim to be best for some reason. Do you have reason for preference especially when mixed with WS2? And I have noticed when it comes to limited slip diff if synthetic is used then the additive for limited slip is not required. Have I missed something? Hopefully get to pull drain or fill plug today and look closer. Thanks guys for help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,824 Posts
Don’t put ws2 in the front diff - just gearbox and rear if your going to use it.

I’ve used valvoline synthetic as well as royal purple synthetic. I do not believe it matters whether or not a limited slip friction modifier has been added.
 

·
Registered
2015 Can Am Commander 800R
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Don’t put ws2 in the front diff - just gearbox and rear if your going to use it.

I’ve used valvoline synthetic as well as royal purple synthetic. I do not believe it matters whether or not a limited slip friction modifier has been added.
I have not done a dive into how BRP created limited slip in the front Diff. I will when I get a chance. When using non-synthetic lube it was a requirement to add the small tube of modifier possibly 12K miles.
I had bought a high mileage 86 Pontiac that the original owner had no clue that it had limited slip and had never been serviced. Drove fine normal running but in short order I noticed something strange on corners. Checked the codes and surprise. Oil was full of metal so I tore down. Lucky I was able to get by with new clutches. For some reason when synthetic became common from manufacturer the additive was not usually called for.
The WS2 might make it too slippery for the clutches to engage! Probably won't ruin anything but need a major clean out.
So you put in Gear Box 1, Gear Box 2, and non-locking Rear Diff?
Wish my cousin was still around. He was oil jobber which meant he took the raw lube and added whatever to meet required specs. He would know what is in all these special lubes. And a crazy aside, I went to school with the family that created mystery oil and claimed they pretty much had the recipe stole from them. It is still Mystery Oil. LOL.
Did it make your oil black or gray like in the videos I watched?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,824 Posts
There's only one gearbox and only one place to add oil to it. The parts fiche just breaks the parts down as number one and number two. The rear diff is locked always (except some fairly rare ones in one particular model year, I forget which year).

I think they relocated the rear diff drain plug by your 2015 model, but on the early ones, it was a bear to locate.
 

·
Registered
2015 Can Am Commander 800R
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
There's only one gearbox and only one place to add oil to it. The parts fiche just breaks the parts down as number one and number two. The rear diff is locked always (except some fairly rare ones in one particular model year, I forget which year).

I think they relocated the rear diff drain plug by your 2015 model, but on the early ones, it was a bear to locate.
I sent a message to the guy I bought from hoping he responds.
Sadly they call that rear box a differential which it is not by any definition. From parts breakdowns and literature from various years it seems the locking rear was available for quite a few years but maybe not commonly purchased. The parts breakdown of it for 2015 really does not show the guts. That is if it actually has conventional set of differential gears or what with the electrical lock.
The front differential is a near mysterious when looking at IPB. Certainly no clue as to how lockup is achieved.
I did see advertisements for newest models that claim to now have turf mode, 2WD, 4WD, and locking. Can only guess if this turf mode is the same as Polaris.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,013 Posts
The new models have a gearbox with the diff built in. No rear drive shaft . And yes its a manual locker in rear. From 2 to one wheel drive .

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2015 Can Am Commander 800R
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Don’t put ws2 in the front diff - just gearbox and rear if your going to use it.

I’ve used valvoline synthetic as well as royal purple synthetic. I do not believe it matters whether or not a limited slip friction modifier has been added.
I got by where the machine is stored and pulled the fill plug. What looks like regular heavy gear oil started to seep out. It had a weak greenish tint making me think it was not synthetic and no WS2. According to manual it is supposed to be half inch below so I need to dig deeper. It certainly was not the stuff I got on my finger through the removed shaft hole.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top