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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys just looking for some advice on what would cause a rear diff to click and clack randomly on a 2012 commander limited. Noise is pretty loud and obnoxious and i do not really want to drive it anymore until its fixed. I pin pointed the noise by jacking all 4 wheels off the ground and put an automotive stethascope on the rear diff housing and heard it clear as day while running the engine in high gear at about 30 kmh. Any advice on what would cause this or how to fix this would be appreciated. TIA
 

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Discussion Starter #3
dealer quoted me 854 cad for the revised version of the rear diff assembly with p/n ending in 019. i asked about the p/n that ended in 506 and they said the 019 is the latest revision?
 

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yeah down here it’s around 650. And 400 plus to replace all the parts.


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As long as it’s not a 11/15 diff your fine. 14 and 15 won’t fit .


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Discussion Starter #6
yea stealer said it was for a 12. when u said and plus 400 to replace all the parts did u mean to rebuild it?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ok. i would like to just getting running again without it sounding like a popcorn maker. If i was to get a new diff from brp do you think the back lash and everything would be set properly from the factory and just need to be reinstalled? I am thinking about putting a new one in. Is changing the rear diff a tough job if your slightly mechanically inclined, and will i need special tools to do it? Thanks
 

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Rear diff is not to hard at all. The new diffs are total different inside . No one has complained about the noise in the new diffs. Original diff was just a turd. They actually had two other diffs 14 and 15 then got it right in 16. To remove tank bed off. You got a top frame section remove it and top two bolts in the diff. The remove pinion yoke bolt. Then pull bottom diff bolts. Roll diff up to the rear and pull yoke out. Diff is out at that point. You will want a new wear ring on the yoke. Being new diff new pinion seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok that doesn't sound too bad. Can u keep the axles in until the diff is unbolted and then pull them or do they need to come out First? Do I absolutely need the special tool for torqueing the lock ring on the yoke side? And do u think the new diff would be an updated one from 16+. The dealer said the pn ended in 019 superseded by 506. Thanks
 

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It’s a wear ring and has to be cut off gently then new one pressed back on . Looking for diff number now .
 

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this is the diff number . Now it may have been superseded by now that was couple yrs back. Just call the parts counter ask for that number nothing else. Then see if it supersedes to a different or is still available. Lots of people bought this diff with no complaints.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok I will call them today to verify that part number. As for the wear ring do I need a press to reinstall that ring or can I do it by hand?
 

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If you can get it started straight you can use a 2/4 and a hammer. Out wear ring in oven on highest temp for about 30 minutes then knock it on fast .
 

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2015 commander 1000 xtp

I just purchased a new rear shaft. The shaft is larger OD than the original. Does anyone know If a wear ring is still required?
 
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