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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Installing a rackzilla on my 2011xt. See pic below to understand my question.

It came with a stud with a 12mm end (measured 12.65) and a bushing to go in the heim joint and a 10mm stud on the other end to go in the spindle. According to the instructions this is for 2010-2013 models.

It was also supposed to come with a 12mm bolt to use with the bushing for 14 and newer, according to the instructions. The 12mm bolts were not in the box, of course.

The problem is that the holes in my commander's spindles measure approx 12.15mm and the stud in the old tie rod ends measure about 11.8. So the 10mm stud is way to small. I don't have a 12mm bolt but when I flip to stud to the 12mm side to test fit, its a little to big for the hole. For now, I'm going to run to fastenall and see if I can find some 12mm bolts with the idea of drilling the spindle to accept them.

But any other ideas?? What diameter are the holes supposed to be in the 2011 spindles?

I'm thinking the factory hole/bolt is SAE, maybe 15/32 or 31/64

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Discussion Starter #2
Well fastenal is closed to the public for the virus unless you have an account, which I dont. I even offered 10 bucks for the employee that walk to the back and get me 2 12x80 bolts.

I picked up a couple of grade 8 1/2”x3” bolts which actually fit the bushings slightly better than the 12mm. So I think they will work.
 

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Yeah they fit cause the zilla stud is double sized. No clue why they even sent you a 10mm stud. The 13 stud was 12mm for the knuckle and 1/2” for the rod ends. So just drill the knuckle to 1/2” . Cause the studs they supply are a grade 5 stud . They snap easy!!
 

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Yeah In 12 when I bought mine you had to drill them to 12mm. Or have 13 knuckles. That’s why I was surprised they had the 10mm in your box. Only thing you have to worry about is the 13 knuckles are beefed up . So by drilling the 11 model out you are weakening the knuckle.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This is probably a stupid question but I'll ask it anyway. The newer rackzillas come with a steering rack brace, sorta. It's two pieces, maybe 1/4" thick. One piece is L shaped and matches the 3 bolt holes in the rack on the driver side. The other piece matches the passenger side holes. I assume it goes on the front side of the factory mounting bracket instead of between the rack and the factory bracket. Is that right? The instructions don't mention it.
 

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When they made the first brace it was on solid brace and mounted on top of the rack not behind the mount. So now that it’s a two it would be kinda useless on either side. Only way it would brace is it all bolt go through the brace.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That's what I thought, but it was in the package.

I figured if it went between the rack and the mount that the steering shaft might be off. So I put it on the other side. Decided that I’d wait to tighten it till I heard what you thought. It’s pretty thick. Here’s a couple pics
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Is it one solid or two ? Maybe I read it wrongdoers time . But yes if it’s one and L shaped it goes where you got it .
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It's two separate pieces.

I found them pictured in the instructions for a 2014 with eps. It's not shown in the picture on the page where you order for a 2014 with eps but if you click on the instructions, it shows them as spacers to sandwich between the rack.

I did check my part number and I have the rack for a 2011.

So maybe I should sandwich them instead of the way I have them?
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Those are spacers . Leave them where they are . They screw the steering all up if you put them between the rack and the mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It looks like at least that my lower passenger side ball joint is wearing out too.

OEM still the way to go?

I think I saw a post one time that the 2015 lowers fit and are better. Can anyone verify this?

The 2015 lowers do have a diff part number than the 2011. The uppers have the same number both years.
 

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They haven’t made great ball joints sense 14. But they are still the strongest for less than 500$
 
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