[dweir]

I have a 2012 commander 1000 Ltd, while riding last weekend i noticed the heat gauge going up higher than usually but would fall back down quickly after a bit. After about half an hour of driving it started spewing out coolant from the rad cap I believe but everything was so wet it was hard to tell. Got a new thermostat, replaced coolant and did what the manual said to get the air out. Even picked up the front with my farm tractor to about three feet off the ground.Now with no cap on rad as soon as it is started( even cold) the coolant level rises and overflows.As the temperature rises the rad will get hot top to bottom, then fan comes on but temperature keeps going up until coolant is going everywhere and I shut it off. If I feel the rad now it is cold again but the line to the waterpump is still too hot to touch. Would this be my water pump maybe or a head gasket?

 

[cannedham]

Did you put the new thermostat in upside down?

 

[dweir]

Did you put the new thermostat in upside down?

I was wondering that after I got it installed. Do you know the proper way?

 

[cannedham]

Hang on a moment, I'll post a pic.

 

[dweir]

Hang on a moment, I'll post a pic.

Yes that's the way I have it, the longer nipple facing up.

 

[cannedham]

You may not have all the air out yet. I notice you're in Canada. Any chance you had a weak antifreeze mixture and actually froze and broke something? Your new thermostat may be defective. Not probable, but possible. If you still have your old thermostat, you could check it in a pan of water. I'll post opening temps. The water pump is easy enough to check. You'd have to remove it's cover, but it's pretty simple. The impeller is screwed on to a shaft that goes through the crankcase and has a plastic gear on the other end that drives it. The impeller should barely rock back and forth, as the gear has it connected internally. You could bump the starter, and verify the impeller turns. Without having a cooling system or leak-down compression tester, you could apply compressed air in each spark plug hole. If you have a head gasket leak to cooling system, it'll let you know (with radiator cap off). If your old thermostat tests good in a pan of water, you could swap that back in first, to rule out a bad new one.

 

[dweir]

You may not have all the air out yet. I notice you're in Canada. Any chance you had a weak antifreeze mixture and actually froze and broke something? Your new thermostat may be defective. Not probable, but possible. If you still have your old thermostat, you could check it in a pan of water. I'll post opening temps. The water pump is easy enough to check. You'd have to remove it's cover, but it's pretty simple. The impeller is screwed on to a shaft that goes through the crankcase and has a plastic gear on the other end that drives it. The impeller should barely rock back and forth, as the gear has it connected internally. You could bump the starter, and verify the impeller turns. Without having a cooling system or leak-down compression tester, you could apply compressed air in each spark plug hole. If you have a head gasket leak to cooling system, it'll let you know (with radiator cap off). If your old thermostat tests good in a pan of water, you could swap that back in first, to rule out a bad new one.
View attachment 67885

Thanks for your help, It didn't freeze, it's been a very mild winter here and the machine is kept in a heated garage. It's hard to get the air out as it keeps pushing the coolant out while I'm trying to burp it.

 

[cannedham]

It took me several burp sessions. Sounds like you're trying to do it with the engine running and radiator cap off.

 

[dweir]

It took me several burp sessions. Sounds like you're trying to do it with the engine running and radiator cap off.

Yes, is that right?

 

[cannedham]

I pulled my front wheels up on regular car ramps, turned motor off. I filled cooling system and capped. I started buggy and let it run to four bars or fan kicked on, etc. I turned it off and walked away. After it cooled down (like totally), I'd remove cap and top off coolant again. Replace cap, run to temp, turn off, walk away, return after cool, top off, cap, run to temp, and so on. Each time a small amount of air settled at the top of system, which is the filler neck/cap. It took me 4 or 5 top-offs, till all the air was out. I was in no hurry, and it was relatively easy, no mess, etc. I didn't move it from the ramps till I was done.

 

[dweir]

Ok, will try that

 

[dweir]

Yes that's the way I have it, the longer nipple facing up.

I just found this, it shows the thermostat the other way. I wonder which is right, will have to call my dealer.

 

[cannedham]

Here is another pic. This is from the 2011 service manual. I have a 2012 1000xt, original thermostat. I went out and checked it before I posted #4 above. Mine is oriented as depicted in post #4.

 

[dweir]

Ok, that's the way I put mine so will leave it. It seems to be working properly that way. Trying again today to burp it and got looking closer and I see a small amount of coolant coming from the drain on the bottom of water pump. Probably a seal gone?

 

[cannedham]

Thats the rotary seal for the water pump. Acts like a weep hole on a car water pump. I would monitor that, and not mess with it unless it leaks real bad. That's a bigger can of worms than what you're dealing with now. Trust me, I'm a gynecologist.

 

[CrimsonTide]

If it's starting to pressurize immediately, I would be concerned about compression getting into the cooling system...

 

[cannedham]

Even with engine cold and thermostat closed, the rotating pump impeller is pushing coolant to the cylinder heads, filler neck, and top of radiator. Flow deadheads at the filler neck because of the cap, and can't continue through the radiator and lower hose because the stat is closed.

 

[knowcretz]

I pulled my front wheels up on regular car ramps, turned motor off. I filled cooling system and capped.
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