That engine will run on one cylinder without missing. But on one cylinder it should run between 38 and 42. Is check engine light on?
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Performance key recognized but acts like it is not
2012 can am commander 1000x. Performance key recognized as scrolls across dash but acts like it has learning key. Will do about 25 mph runs smooth. Not a flu ch issue or misfire as idles fine. Once in a while but not very often it will take off and run great. Next time you start it back to only 25 mph tops. I did just put a rebuilt engine in and tried two new temp sensors. Thought it might be related but no change. Fan has run at startup and then shutoff and come back on at temp. Does not do this every time either. Thinking maybe software reflash at the dealer?? Anyone had a similar issue?
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You might be on to something. I had thought about that because be easy to foul a plug since new engine . It just runs and idles so smoothly that makes me think it is the computer holding it back. I will put a new set in and see what happens.. no check engine lights or stored codes . It may run faster it just acts like it will top out about 25 but have never really pushed it any farther.That engine will run on one cylinder without missing. But on one cylinder it should run between 38 and 42. Is check engine light on?
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Need to check fuel pressure . Minimum pressure is 50psi. Being only running 25 I’m guessing fuel issue more so that plugs . But plugs are the cheapest point to start on.
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Yes will put gauge on fuel after do the plugs. It had water in gas so wouldn’t be surprised if fuel pump is bad. Just doesn’t act like it is starving for file but I see lots of people have pointed to fuel pressure issues on this site. Thanks for the help.Need to check fuel pressure . Minimum pressure is 50psi. Being only running 25 I’m guessing fuel issue more so that plugs . But plugs are the cheapest point to start on.
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Do plugs one at a time and let it run some.... may help you narrow down the problem.
I spliced in a fuel gauge have 51 lbs of pressure at all times even under full Throttle. Put two new spark plugs in and reaction is same. I pulled fuel pump and gave it a visual inspection and nothing out of ordinary. I have thought possibly knock sensor/ wiring but not getting any engine codes. My next thought is clutching because I put a new belt on when replaced the engine and wondering if I put clutches back together correctly but what is odd is a couple times it has run perfectly where it feels like it will pull front tires off ground on take off and then next time you start it feels like a golf cart. That is why I’m thinking electrical/ software and not clutches.
Only things that don’t throw codes to my knowledge are fuel pump spark plugs and clutches. But I do know that a bad belt on a machine with a knock sensor can put the machine into limp mode. We had it happen on the trail . It was limited to 20 ish mph but it also kicked the engine light on. I would unplug the ecm check the harness plug and the pins in the ecm plug make sure you don’t have some corrosion shorting out the harness. We have seen that before on this forum couple yrs back .
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You have a 2012 I don’t remember it to have a knock sensor.
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Here is latest. I just pulled back plug to do a compression check and the plug looks absolutely brand new after running it for probably 30 mins after changing . Pull spark plug boot on either cylinder and will start and idle on other cylinder. I’m thinking a plugged/ bad injector if it was no spark I would still think plug be little black or wet. I put compression gauge hose it and it fired up and idled like it has so running on one cylinder. I pulled other plug and has the perfect nice brown look on the plug. If you lay the clean plug on engine it also gives a spark although I know that doesn’t mean it is strong enough under compression. I had it running pulled back fuel injector plug and actually idled little faster. Plugged it back in and pulled front injector wire plug and immediately died. I am going to pull back injector now and look for plugged/ clean and will let you know what I findYou have a 2012 I don’t remember it to have a knock sensor.
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Put a plug in the boot and ground it. Crank the engine over and see if you have spark. I chased a similar problem and it was a bad plug-no spark. AFR gauge said lean so I put new injectors on, swapped them the whole bit. So it seemed mine stopped sending fuel when it had no spark. Easy to check. I was ready to get rid of the Commander when I was going through that.
There’s a thread on the forum with the auto part store part numbers for the injectors. A lot cheaper than going back to can am for a new one. There also a color ring on injector. The color ring is how you know if you are getting the right injector. Depending on the color that is how they rate the flow . So just say red is 30 psi then and blue would be 45 psi. Those are the specs just using those numbers and colors as example.
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Cleaned injectors - no change. Pulled ignition coil did ohm test with best spec numbers I can find on the internet . it doesn’t pass the test so ordered new coil and supposed to be here Friday. Cautiously optimistic.
I had grounded the spark plugs initially and thought one spark might be different color than other but hard to tell with shadows etc. and not a good test but did have spark on both plugs. I ohmed both spark plug wires/ caps and all good there also. Hopefully the new coil is th fix but if not will check it off the list of things to check.Put a plug in the boot and ground it. Crank the engine over and see if you have spark. I chased a similar problem and it was a bad plug-no spark. AFR gauge said lean so I put new injectors on, swapped them the whole bit. So it seemed mine stopped sending fuel when it had no spark. Easy to check. I was ready to get rid of the Commander when I was going through that.
Cannedham that's a cool gadget where do you get them? That eliminates the risk of getting shocked. 
Let us know how the coil turns out.
Let us know how the coil turns out.
Unfortunately, the coil made no difference. I am now leaning to internal engine issue. Need to do a compression check to compare each cylinder. I hate to think it might be that since I just bought this engine from an engine rebuilder. And have spent so much time and money in shipping the cre back , and installing this engineCannedham that's a cool gadget where do you get them? That eliminates the risk of getting shocked.
Let us know how the coil turns out.
Compression checked cold engine both plugs removed with a harbor freight gauge. Both are identical psi at 160 lbs . Front plug looks little more whitish than the back plug. FYI did also remove the spark arrestor and cleaned it. It was dirty/ somewhat plugged and can believe that would be a general maintenance item.Unfortunately, the coil made no difference. I am now leaning to internal engine issue. Need to do a compression check to compare each cylinder. I hate to think it might be that since I just bought this engine from an engine rebuilder. And have spent so much time and money in shipping the cre back , and installing this engine
160 lbs each cylinder no problem .Unfortunately, the coil made no difference. I am now leaning to internal engine issue. Need to do a compression check to compare each cylinder. I hate to think it might be that since I just bought this engine from an engine rebuilder. And have spent so much time and money in shipping the cre back , and installing this engine
On to the throttle body. With key on and WOT wide open throttle the butterfly is only going about 1/4 open. Should it go full open with only key on and engine not running w accelerator pedal fully pressed? Might need to recalibrate? If so how do you do that? I pulled cover off of throttle body and no corrision/ water inside.
Mine is an AmPro T71240. It is also branded as a Lisle 20700. The metal tip unscrews to accept the small threaded motorcycle type plug boot also. I got mine at Autozone, Advance, or Orielly's. Been too long ago to remember which.Cannedham that's a cool gadget where do you get them? That eliminates the risk of getting shocked.
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