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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright guys, been a while since I’ve been on here. Long story short, I sold my first commander in Jan. Kicked myself in the butt since. Two weeks ago I bought another one 17 xt 1000 2,900 miles all stock with some add ons. First things first checking it out I put it in high, slight grind? Figured ahh just my fault I haven’t ridden in a while. Get it home it does it several more times. Take it to the dealer and the shift cable is on backwards. They turned it around now it only grinds about once every 20 times only going into high. So first outing on it yesterday, 20 miles in belt blows to shreds (riding fast of course) go to assess the damage. Belt of course, busted belt housing cover, and broke one notch on the rear of the backing plate (where one of the 13 bolts feeds through) my question is silicon her up and ride? Fix it by pulling clutches and replace whole housing? Or sell it and go a different route?

Only went through one belt on my old one with 28” outbacks, Hayden fan switch of course had the belt cooler… idk guys. Not a good start at all.


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You will need new cover. Silicone if it holds it will be temporary. Also with 2900 miles the one-way bearing maybe done. That will cause the belt to creep when not in gear then grind going in
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I mentioned that to them, they told me if it wasn’t creeping forward then it’s nothing to worry about. Although I wish they would of at least looked… well watching videos of pulling clutches (yours included) I’m confident I could do it. Just don’t know torque specs or if anything would be reverse thread… hate to go right in to breaking something


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Watch mine again I have two. Pretty sure one has the Torque specs. Nothing is left hand thread. Everything is right hand. I Torque my bolts to 95#. But I use the grade 10 bolt from uatv-tech.com as well as the double sealed one-way bearings from there. He has several kits with bearings the spreader bolt and puller bolt . All reasonably prices.​
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I’ve about decided to keep the commander, thinking of replacing whole housing and servicing one way using a double sealed while I’m in there. But while I’m in there opinions on going ahead and sending out for the lock up mod? Or a clutch kit? I do intend on putting 30’s on it. Hoping to keep the same weight tire as my 28x10 Outback max tires were… thoughts?


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You lose gear for every inch. 28 not to noticeable 29 noticeable 30 big lose . You really need a after market clutch to lower the take off gear. Or you will be in low range more than high when trail riding. I myself pay no attention to weight. The gearing you lose adding more weight just amplifies the gear loss. 29 " is really the breaking point for the factory clutch and high range. The clutch kit is a bandaid. Only real benefit is being able to dial your wide open Throttle rpm to the 6900 to 7200 which is peak hp on the older 85hp 1000. So at least when you mash the skinny pedal you go straight to peak hp.

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2013 1000X: RT Pro 2" lift, Warranty Killer low ratio gearbox, fan override, clutch lock up mod
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Lock up mod, sealed one way bearing, lower engagement spring, and 29.5” Outlaw 2’s with no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Hmmm okay think I’ll pass on 30’s for now… until I decide to sink money into it. Any suggestions on tires? How would I do with a 28x9.5 ol2 on that stock clutching? I’d prefer to go more aggressive than the outbacks were… crazy ol2 weigh in a 48 while I’d always heard the outbacks were crazy heavy tires but their 28” coming in at 42

Looking more and the ol3 seems to be a good one too. Also since I just ordered parts from uatv I’m thinking about adding the low engagement spring to the order. Putting it in for now, and down the road possibly sending in for the lock up mod?


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With 28" unless you get some black mabas weight won't be a issue. All the mud tires are heavy compared to trail tires. So if worried about the weight just use your best judgment. Any of those tires will do great in the mud.

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Roger that, thanks Ace! Almost set on 29.5x9 ol3. Should I be okay just going with the early engagement spring for now? I’ll send it out for the lock up when funds come about lol! Not going through a lot of mud but there will be some on the trails


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You shouldn't need the lockup . It just dawned on me that yours is a 17 model. It has the mav clutch not the original commander clutch. So shouldn't have a belt burning issue. But the clutch kit will definitely help with power to the ground being you are going up in size.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You shouldn't need the lockup . It just dawned on me that yours is a 17 model. It has the mav clutch not the original commander clutch. So shouldn't have a belt burning issue. But the clutch kit will definitely help with power to the ground being you are going up in size.

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What year did they start putting the Mav clutches in and what’s the difference? Almost sounds like good news, with this known whats about the biggest tire I’d be okay with stock or just with a low engagement spring? I understand how much a clutch kit would benefit but as long as I’m not frying belts I’ll be happy.


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Tire size hasn't changed its not a belt issue it's the lack of low end gearing. The two are very similar but the mav clutch doest tend to slip the inner and outer halves near as easy as the commander clutch did which is what the lock up fixed. The primary and secondary are still same size but the outer primary is mated much tighter to the inner .

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