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Can-Am filter. Amsoil fluids throughout and ws2 where appropriate.


After your comments a while back about the "big boys" using Amsoil, I checked around on some folks that I know use it for other vehicles. I had been a die hard user of T6 Rotella in my 3500 Ram Dually. I spoke with a few people who also were die hards but ended up trying Amsoil in their diesels. After 3,000 miles they reported no darkening of the oil in the Ram. They also felt like it ran smoother. Ran into a construction company owner who uses Amsoil in his heavy stuff.



All of that combined, I believe I am going to follow your lead on this and use Amsoil fluids all the way around in my Can Am. Probably going to go to that on my Ram as well. Thanks for the info.


I’m not sure sure which thread you’ve read and I’m not a scientist, just a ploomber, but I do run the amsoil front to back in my race Jeep and both of my diesel F350’s and use their oil filters. In my Commander all of the fluids are amsoil and I just picked up a K&N oil filter on Acefire’s suggestion.



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The k&n (or hiflo) is a future switch for me as well when I get through the oem stash. I see guys like the hiflo and their part number is similar, HF152.
 

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Yes, 0-40. Sorry about the picture. The K&N filter I just picked up was the filter only. I may be mistaken but I don’t ever remember replacing any o-rings or washers during routine maintenance.


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I think he's talking about the crush washers on the drain plugs. Mine is a 2014 and I just changed mine out for the first time. While recommended by can am I don't think it's absolutely necessary.

Steve

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Still using same washer and Oring 5 oil changes still no issues .

Thanks folks. Lots of good info. Yes, I was talking about the crush washer. I had always changed them out on my old VW's when I worked on them and on my motorcycles. I thought the oil filter might have a gasket but I guess not. Is the consensus that the K&N is the preferred by you guys?

I read one message that there was an external oil filter set up. Other than the ease of not undoing a couple of screws...is there any advantage to the by pass? Unless you are using an oil cooler. Sounds like a lot of work to me....lol
 

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Yes, 0-40. Sorry about the picture. The K&N filter I just picked up was the filter only. I may be mistaken but I don’t ever remember replacing any o-rings or washers during routine maintenance.


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I think he's talking about the crush washers on the drain plugs. Mine is a 2014 and I just changed mine out for the first time. While recommended by can am I don't think it's absolutely necessary.

Steve

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Still using same washer and Oring 5 oil changes still no issues .

Thanks folks. Lots of good info. Yes, I was talking about the crush washer. I had always changed them out on my old VW's when I worked on them and on my motorcycles. I thought the oil filter might have a gasket but I guess not. Is the consensus that the K&N is the preferred by you guys?

I read one message that there was an external oil filter set up. Other than the ease of not undoing a couple of screws...is there any advantage to the by pass? Unless you are using an oil cooler. Sounds like a lot of work to me....lol

The oil filter relocate kit is good if you wanna eliminate the mess that happened when you change the filter. You can also run a standard (but small) off the shelf oil filter. With the relocate kit you could actually change the oil without removing any plastics. Of course you still need to to change the gearcase oil. I just did my first oil change with my relocate kit and it was a no mess, easy job. It does add a few ounces to your oil capacity too. If you search on here for "oil filter relocate" I have a whole thread with install pictures and hose sizes. One benefit is you don't have to worry about stripping/cross threading,breaking the 3 little screws on the oil filter cover. I have a buddy with a commander who had one of the bolts break off. It was a PITA for him to fix.

Steve
 

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Just throwing this out there.....
Re: The 3 oil filter cover screws. I have seen many threads about people having trouble with them. They should only tightend to 89 Inch lb (10NM) or 8 foot lb torque. That is snug plus a wee bit more if you don't have a torque wrench. Over torqueing those little screws will distort the threads in the block. Causing the screws to strip the heads or break off when trying to remove. The cover is sealed with an O ring. There is no need to over tighten those screws.
 
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Just throwing this out there.....
Re: The 3 oil filter cover screws. I have seen many threads about people having trouble with them. They should only tightend to 89 Inch lb (10NM) or 8 foot lb torque. That is snug plus a wee bit more if you don't have a torque wrench. Over torqueing those little screws will distort the threads in the block. Causing the screws to strip the heads or break off when trying to remove. The cover is sealed with an O ring. There is no need to over tighten those screws.


This is good information here. I got around doing the pesky torque specs every time by eliminating the filter altogether. This has saved me a lot time and mess.


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I don’t deal with those little bolts also . I put a MR:RPM spin-on adaptor


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Yes boog you are funny :

Ha


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Ah . The wise one in the house


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Just throwing this out there.....
Re: The 3 oil filter cover screws. I have seen many threads about people having trouble with them. They should only tightend to 89 Inch lb (10NM) or 8 foot lb torque. That is snug plus a wee bit more if you don't have a torque wrench. Over torqueing those little screws will distort the threads in the block. Causing the screws to strip the heads or break off when trying to remove. The cover is sealed with an O ring. There is no need to over tighten those screws.


This is good information here. I got around doing the pesky torque specs every time by eliminating the filter altogether. This has saved me a lot time and mess.


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I wonder how many are going to take that seriously and give it a whirl...lol
 

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Not me. All a remote filter is to me is one more part(s) hanging out there to break or leak. I'll just do the oil change the old fashioned way.
 

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When I first got my Commander and saw the oil change procedure I thought...You gotta be kidding me...and started looking at relocation kits. But it's really not that bad. I'm gonna leave it alone.
 

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Just throwing this out there.....
Re: The 3 oil filter cover screws. I have seen many threads about people having trouble with them. They should only tightend to 89 Inch lb (10NM) or 8 foot lb torque. That is snug plus a wee bit more if you don't have a torque wrench. Over torqueing those little screws will distort the threads in the block. Causing the screws to strip the heads or break off when trying to remove. The cover is sealed with an O ring. There is no need to over tighten those screws.


This is good information here. I got around doing the pesky torque specs every time by eliminating the filter altogether. This has saved me a lot time and mess.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I wonder how many are going to take that seriously and give it a whirl...lol
Hopefully no one.


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Not me. All a remote filter is to me is one more part(s) hanging out there to break or leak. I'll just do the oil change the old fashioned way.
Just to be clear, I will eventually do the MRRPM relocate kit, my joke was about eliminating the filter entirely so I didn’t have to mess with it. Do not try this at home kids. (With or without relocating your oil filter) Booger.
 

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Not me. All a remote filter is to me is one more part(s) hanging out there to break or leak. I'll just do the oil change the old fashioned way.
I am afraid I will stick with the old fashioned way as well. I am not sure how all of that will fit under the shroud if swapped out. I do like oil coolers though.
 

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The engine has an oil cooler.... Well it is more of a heat exchanger. It is located on the front of the block. No lines going to it, its all internal. Uses coolant to cool the oil.
 

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I just received xtp the commander wants to change the oil but I don't know how long it will take to change the oil. I also don't know what oil to use. I just received a Valvoline coupon code but don't know if it's suitable for the car. I don't have much experience, hope someone can help and share more experience for me.
 

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The service manual for my 2015 Commander says to use 75/140 for the gearbox and rear diff, but 75/90 in the front diff. I'm not sure how much of a difference it would make but I followed the specs because I also have a BMW motorcycle and already had both weights on hand anyway.

In engines (motorcycles, snowmobiles and ATV/UTVs) I have been using Shell Rotella full-synth Diesel oil for many years because it tends to be cheaper than most. It meets or exceeds all specs and I've never had an issue in any vehicle.
 
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