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Discussion Starter #1
Am I the only one who thinks BRP should be responsible to supply a proper method and product to cut down noise/whine and heat?
They do a better job on the same problem for their snow machines.
I know you guys in snow country do not mind but many of us ride in the south and deserts.
My wife actually had bright red areas on her left calf from the heat generated on a 20 mile ride in Baja. Ambient temp was just under 80 deg.
that is not acceptable.
Ride is a 2013 commander 1000X with only a few mods as it is quite new.
Does anyone know if BRP will even listen?
Three So Cal dealers could care less!!!!
 

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They don't care its load and they know it's load and have not do much to fix the problem. I have a 13 X and personally don't think it's as load as the 700 rhino my buddy has so I'm happy. Plus it's a go fast utility not a go slow utility. Lol

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Respectfully . . . . . ., they make noise for sure, were you wearing a helmet or hearing protection and do you have a roof and windshield. I say this because that makes a huge difference.

On the heat side, I think there should be someone who makes a fan kit that sits in the front behind the radiator and blows air through the engine cavity continuously, the radiator does a good job on the inside heat, I think we need to move more air through the cavity for the radiating heat blow off. You push a 1000 hard like I imagine you were and your making muchous BTU's or kilojoules for sure!

You guys in warmer climates have a good beef on the heat thing and maybe someone will pick up on it and make one for us!?
 

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Had the same complaints about my 2012 1000XT, noise and heat... The noise (exhaust system resonance) was brutal at some RPM ranges to the point I didn't want to ride in it... I lowered the noise some with exhaust wrap in combination with self adhesive Thermo-Tec applied to the clutch cover, and interior plastic panels... It helps some... The heat problem is due to the fact that Commanders run hot because the radiator fan is set from the factory to come on at something like 225 degrees (don't quote that)... I fixed that issue and the CVT heat issue by installing an adjustable dual output Hayden Fan Controller which I set low to turn on the radiator fan and a 3" Bilge blower plumbed inline with the CVT vent ducting to eliminate ALOT of in-cab heat... It works very well to remove alot of in-cab heat... The amount of heat that the CTV blower moves out of the CVT vent discharge at the rear of the cab under the bed is pretty impressive... Owners who run without roofs/windshields will call you nuts and to quit bitching about it but to me it was a real problem and took away from the fun of riding... I have a roof, windshield and a rear window...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
is insulating the CVT a good idea?
I thought we wanted to get the heat out not keep it in?
Do you think the blower/fan out does the effects of a sound/heat wrap?
Just asking, need to know.
Thanks
 

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image.jpg
How to boil water lol And this is after the wrap 108.8
 

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is insulating the CVT a good idea?
I thought we wanted to get the heat out not keep it in?
Do you think the blower/fan out does the effects of a sound/heat wrap?
Just asking, need to know.
Thanks
To answer your question, the stock CVT vent system doesn't do enough to cool the clutch/belt IMHO as it's pretty passive and weak at best... Hold your hand at the outlet of the CVT vent and tell me if you feel much air flow... The Thermo-Tec insulation is both sound and heat insulating, and it works some to keep heat from the exhaust piping from entering the CVT housing. Wrapping the exhaust piping also helps to cut down that heat transfer... When I added the Hayden Fan Controller and 3" Bilge Blower, it made a huge difference in heat reduction... The Fan controller kicks the radiator fan on alot sooner and the temp gauge never gets above 3 bars anymore, usually runs at 2 bars... The Bilge Blower moves alot of air and if you put your hand at the CVT Vent exhaust, you'll feel alot more heat/air moving out of there and off the Belt/Clutch... Of all the mods I've done, it's probably the one that has the most impact so far... I also had to replace my original CVT Belt 'cuz I smoked the first one at 10 hours... The replacement G-Force Belt hasn't had a problem and I've worked it pretty hard crawling up high elevation trails here in Colorado...
 

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No you are not the only one mine is very loud and even ear plugs dont help. And BRP needs to have a fix for these problems.You pay top dollar for the commander and I expect better quaility then what I have.
 

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is insulating the CVT a good idea?
I thought we wanted to get the heat out not keep it in?
Do you think the blower/fan out does the effects of a sound/heat wrap?
Just asking, need to know.
Thanks
To answer your question, the stock CVT vent system doesn't do enough to cool the clutch/belt IMHO as it's pretty passive and weak at best... Hold your hand at the outlet of the CVT vent and tell me if you feel much air flow... The Thermo-Tec insulation is both sound and heat insulating, and it works some to keep heat from the exhaust piping from entering the CVT housing. Wrapping the exhaust piping also helps to cut down that heat transfer... When I added the Hayden Fan Controller and 3" Bilge Blower, it made a huge difference in heat reduction... The Fan controller kicks the radiator fan on alot sooner and the temp gauge never gets above 3 bars anymore, usually runs at 2 bars... The Bilge Blower moves alot of air and if you put your hand at the CVT Vent exhaust, you'll feel alot more heat/air moving out of there and off the Belt/Clutch... Of all the mods I've done, it's probably the one that has the most impact so far... I also had to replace my original CVT Belt 'cuz I smoked the first one at 10 hours... The replacement G-Force Belt hasn't had a problem and I've worked it pretty hard crawling up high elevation trails here in Colorado...

Where did you install the 3" bilge blower? What model and how much? Sounds like an awesome idea. I'm gonna wrap my exhaust and do the plastics soon. The Southwest heat is gonna be a killer soon.
 

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I am also going to install a blower but need to know if I should do it under the dash or in the engine compartment or "the tunnel". I'm in the middle of exhaust wrapping and insulating the CVT and In high hopes that works well.
 

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This is a good one guys lets keep it going! My 14 came with the cvt cover bottom half covered with the heat reflective material on it obviously to protect from exhaust pipe. And a comment on the blower in cvt piping probly also very effective only drawback might be pulling in water accidentally my means of rain or that big hole you dont see coming although you can shut it off. Maybe heres something making a plate in the rear under console to pull air thru and out with one of these inline fans not sure how big they make them or how well that idea is really until looking my machine over but just throwing my initial 2sense in. Thats why the forum is great. My mods to cope with this has been from reading on here 1 pipe wrap 2 dyno mat on underside of console 3 dz fan overide switch witch I just turn on while riding unless its getting waaay deep. And still searching to improve on the issue. Sorry for the novel lol.
 

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I would suggest a circuit breaker switch for the fan override. That way if you do hit the water your not popping fuses left and right. We have a lot of water crossings here and I forget to turn it off and pop fuses all the time. I do have a circuit switch but its 30 amp and a 30 amp fuse will pop berfore the switch kicks out. So next weekend the fuse is coming out so switch can do its job.
 

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Good point Ace I haven't yet but for sure gonna forget to turn it off.
 

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I have been wanting to do the blower in the CVT now for a while. I'm not sure if I want it blowing in or out. I guess it depends on if you can draw enough air through the CVT housing.

My plan is the console cover I just ordered, wrap the exhaust, use the heat resistant stick on foil on covers and then add a blower in it. I already have the fan over ride and running in the thick mud of Tn this weekend. It never went past two bars.

I would like to find some push i vents so when winter time was here. I could open the vents up into the foot area of the Commander
 

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I installed a fan directly in front of the forward cylinder - this way it can pull cooler air through the tunnel. I wired it into the DZ harness and installed it on its own inline fuse. Now, when I am cruising slow, I hit the Fan override switch and both fans kick on. The only down fall is the burst of hot air that comes up through the shifter area when it initially kicks on. We haven't had any hot weather yet here in Ohio, but I was able to run it on the one 76 degree day - what a difference it makes. I kept it right at 1-2 bars while creeping through the woods.

As for a CVT blower, wouldn't that just restrict airflow to the already starved housing? Sure it makes sense to force air - if all you are doing is idling. I would think the cvt system itself would pull a lot harder than a blower can provide. Just a thought.
 

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cooling fan

i got a 7 in fan from e bay and mounted it in front of the metal grill ,behind the rad ,when i need to turn it on there is a switch on the dash called fan switch flip it on at any time while key is on or off, and yes there is a red light to let me know the fan is on ,fan about 20.00, mounted it in very tight spot with zip ties real quite..
 

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Bollax have you tried Troy's console cover. Supposed to help with both heat and noise. I've been thinking about getting one.
To answer your question I think can-am should step up and do something about this.
 

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Old thread. He posted more than two years ago. But still a "hot" topic I guess.
 
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