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First off I'll introduce myself. I have since the age of 10 (40's now) been a yamaha guy always intrigued with can am's power so 3 years ago I bit the bullet and bought a can am outlander max 1000 and in August picked up a 2016 can am commander limited 1000, can am only for me from now on. I putt around Washington state, follow the trails in S.E. Oregon and make my own trails in Alaska. I'm a new member to the site but I have come to this site for a few years now for advice/instructions on modifications, the members and knowledge here are top notch to say the least and I thank you for that.

I want to take the the commander moose hunting this year but I'm afraid the combination of weight and ground clearance will limit where i can go so I bought a 2" racer tech lift kit with the intention of installing 28" or 30" ITP cryptid tires. The front shock relocating arms went on flawlessly. The rears bolt on the frame fine but when I bring the shock up to mount the eye of the shock and bolt hole on the relocating arm do not match up. To force them to match up requires me to compress the shock appx 7/8" forcing my trailing arm down and when I turn the axle it does'nt feel happy, I have fox acs shocks with original springs. 2010-2014 there was a 9 page discussion on this forum about this topic that I have read a half dozen times that says don't compress shocks into shock relocating arms. I called a company technician and he told me to compress the shock into the relocating arm, ride and retorque so I did. the axles are at a crazy angle and when the machine bounces up (not a jump) I can feel the trailing arm bottom out, pretty sure it's not the swaybar either. I'm afraid of the axle popping out or the CV grenading because I'm not sure what else it could be. I can fab up what ever I need when I need it I have welder, plasma, and stuff but I feel like if the hole was in different location where the axle has some wiggle I would be safe. Yes both shocks were unbolted and rear was at "full droop". This is not a bad rant for any company or person, I only mention the brand so you know what I'm working on, I guess I'm looking for a second opinion or someone to tell me I'm over thinking things and it's fine. Thanks
 

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If you need to compress a shock to install your in trouble . Your axle is too short for your setup . With the mander you can’t do lift and Arm movement at the same time . If you want to do both you need longer axles . I went with turner axles on my buggy


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Also look at the Maverick XXC axles. These are slightly longer than the stock Commander axles, and will be a direct fit.

If you're really worried about it, run some limiting straps so you don't go full extension.

You could also have a bit too much pre-load on the shocks and may want to consider turning them down a bit.


Pics will really help.



-Kris
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If you need to compress a shock to install your in trouble . Your axle is too short for your setup . With the mander you can’t do lift and Arm movement at the same time . If you want to do both you need longer axles . I went with turner axles on my buggy


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THANK YOU, that is what I thought. So I believe I will need Turner eagle level 2 upgraded stock length axles (I will call and verify), pop them in and done? Should the front be done as well, there was no binding and everything had play?
 

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Turner axles are about a 1/2” longer than stock stuff


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I put limit straps from super atv on mine and it cured all my problems. I kept popping axles and halo wasn’t working right. And it’s been good ever since. 20” straps is what I used


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Can you post a few pics of the rear brackets?? That’s a lot to compress something seems off

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Discussion Starter #11
Here is my alignment issue. I think I have spoken with every axle manufacturer out there and they all say (on paper) "increasing the length will not solve the problem, increasing the cv angle and double plunge will get you the length."
I believe the members here who ride/maintain/modify the commander so I am currently working with gorrilla (have not purchased at this minute) who said they will send me an axle 1/2" longer and if I don't like it send it back and they will shorten it, not sure if I can go wrong with that. Any input would be greatly appreciated!
 

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I have seen a lot of the lifts requiring longer axles . But they are normally about 1/2 a bolt hole off. The only time I have seen them that far off. Was when someone was trying to put the lift on one side at a time. On the rear you have to remove bolt shocks then do one side put shock on then other side.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Factory,

In the picture both of the shocks were unbolted with only one side of the lift installed, being independent the only thing that would alter the other side would be the sway bar, I think. so the picture should represent the lowest point with sway bar attached.

I'll work on picture you asked for.
 

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Can you measure the length of the shock?? From the center of the hole in each end


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Rear isn’t independent it’s semi independent due to the swaybar . Need lots of pics . Have never seen or heard of one being this far off with both shocks disconnected. Pics of bottom of shock where it boys intone arm pics of arm where it bolts Into the frame mount . With it being that far off I’m not sure 1/2” longer axles will be long enough . And if you go to a inch longer not sure they won’t bottom out when the axles compress to their shortest lengths. When both shocks are disconnected the axles will fully extend . And hold the arms up . If you push down on either side it will pop the axles out of the diff. Which of course is what you are trying to avoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Center of hole to center of hole is 20.25"

Here are the images.

Before I raised the machine off the ground to work on it I put the suspension setting @ 1 and drove forward and backwards for 10' to relax and take any remaining stress out of tires and shocks.
 

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