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Hello folks, I just joined the forums yesterday and spent some of the afternoon browsing posts. All very informative and helpful. I just purchased a 2013 Commander X (carbon fiber finish) this week and have been having a blast. Completly walks all over my buddies wheelers and side by sides; oh yea, those 800 HO RzR's ate dust all day long lol.
It is so enjoyable to drive, but I do have some concerns.I have seen a few forums concerning the noise of the clutch engaging after it is in gear and I start to put push the accelerator. After reading some of the forums it seems to be an issue that is in all of the Commanders, I have been assured (by the dealer) it is normal. However I still feel it is an unsual sound and feel that has developed after the first few hours of use. Any ifo would be great.
Also, I noticed my box has a terrible rattle when there is no weight in the box, and when the bike is idling it sounds like it is gonna fall off lol. But again if I apply about 10 pounds of presure, the rattle is elimanted. Anyone else have this issue before or have any suggestions?

-Gadfly2
 

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Welcome....with the stock clutch the clunk is normal...you will get better at easing into it and finally get it down to where it is barely there...the bed rattle can be adjusted with the round rubber bumpers on back of the cab. There is one on each side.

Sent from my Motorola Xyboard
 

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Welcome gadfly2,
I was the same way when I purchased my XT. I thought something was wrong with the clutch. My bed rattled like crazy also, apparently it's not part of setting the machine up when the dealer takes it out of the crate. Mine was extended to the max on the right and 3/4 down on the left. 10 minutes of adjusting and it should be a lot quieter.
 

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I was looking my SxS over just now and just noticed the exhaust pipes and muffler are dark purple! I understand that heat will turn pipes blue, but I have never seen purple... this means that my SxS is running lean and needs to be corrected, correct?
 

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Welcome,

As far as the clunk, is should only be when you are just starting to move up to maybe 7 mph and then after that the clutch should be fully engaged and no more noise should be heard from the stock clutch. But at that point you might hear the rear differential some. You shold not hear your CV joints. you might hear a small amount of clunk, clunk, clunk from the rear CV joint and or the rear diff when making a turn on a hard surface but that it should not be excessive.

About the bed rattle noise. The bed is not always ajusted correct by the dealer and mine surely was not. I went back to have them ajust it and they said it was as good as it would get. Lol it was not even close to what it could be.
To adjust the bed plan on a couple hours and beers and if you finnish sooner better yet.

Steps to getting the bed adjusted
Bolts to work with are
4 bolts holding on the rear skid plate
2 lower rear sub frame bolts (just in front of the hitch but on the sides)
2 upper rear sub frame bolts (right above the last 2 bolts)
2 bolts on exhaust cover in back
2 bolts on slider rails just under the rear part of the plastic bed
2 bolts left forward latch
2 bolts right forward latch
2 adjustable forward bumper stop bolts with lock bolts.
1 HYD lift bar bolt. (top bolt is all you need to remove)

1. Start with taking off the rear skid plate then taking off the HYD lift bar upper bolt and putting on a strap from the roll bar to the bed so it does not open to far during the adjustment. The HYD bar goes back on last.

2. Mark exact location with a sharpie marker or look close at height and angle of the forward latche plates attached to the frame and then remove them.
If you just loosen them only, they are almost impossible to unlatch during adjustments. If you don't mark them it can take some time to get them in the correct starting point when readjusting later.

3. Adjust the 2 rubber bumper stop bolts on the car frame under the front part of the bed. You want both sides to be equal at this point but not all the way up because you need adjustment later.
You can count bolt threads or measure the height.

4. Now look at the bed on the sides to see if they are equal gaps where the bed meets the side panels. If not you can adjust that now with the bolts holding the bed on. There is one bolt on each side slider rails that should be in the same adjuster hole on both sides. If not this should be done now. Now get the distance equal on the gaps between the bed and side panels. I think there is 2 more bolts that hold the bed on that can also be used to make this adjustment (I don't have my Commander to look at right now).

5. If the bed is not sitting flat on BOTH bumper stops (adjusted in step 3) then you will need to loosen the 4 bolts on the rear sub frame and the 2 bolt on the exhaust cover.
I used a block of wood and floor jack to adjust the bed into place and then tighten the sub frame bolts back up and then tighten the exhaust cover bolts.

6. Now the bed should now be sitting flat on both bumper stops and look equal on both sides where the bed meets the side panels. If not correct it before going on.

7. Put the left and right latch plates back on the frame in the marked spot. Tighten each time you try the new adjustment. You need to tighten for each adjustment because if it moves to far back it is very hard to get unlatched. The adjustment should be where both sides completely latch and it can be slammed shut and opened from either side of the bed. This can take some time. Make sure the lever when latched is horizontal because it can seem like it is latched completely even when it is not.

8. Adjust the rubber stopper adjustment bolts one more time. This time you want to move them up a little tighter and then check the bed latched ok. You don't want the rubber smashed too much and check it works from both sides of the bed to open and close once more.

9. Put the skid plat back on, then bolt the HYD lift bar back on and that's it, no more rattles.


I am sure everyone here could figure this out on there own but I had to do it 3 times and got the system down so thought I would give the full steps I ended up with that worked best.
 

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Holy shit...was it falling off or something....as long as yours is on straight and just rattling all you do is use the bump stops on which ever side is making the noise...i pulled up and down on mine and had more movement on the passenger side so i raised that bump stop and now no more noise...took about 5 minutes and was done.

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Is the bed put on at the dealers or is it P Poor quality control at the plant in Mexico? There have been quite a few posts on this problem. CanAm needs to step up and get it corrected.
 

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Holy shit...was it falling off or something....as long as yours is on straight and just rattling all you do is use the bump stops on which ever side is making the noise...i pulled up and down on mine and had more movement on the passenger side so i raised that bump stop and now no more noise...took about 5 minutes and was done.
Yep I know I got carried away but when I first picked up my Commander the bed was touching one side and sticking out the other, nothing was stright on mine. Then the next time after I got the frame replaces by the dealer for a 2012 frame (defective left front wheel mount) the bed again was way off and then one more time I had some work done that required it to be strighted out. The good news is even with it way off you can get it perfect with a little work.

Is the bed put on at the dealers or is it P Poor quality control at the plant in Mexico? There have been quite a few posts on this problem. CanAm needs to step up and get it corrected.
I think it is a dealer issue because many of them are thinking if it is close who cares but many of us do and dont want the bed popping open when riding.
 

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I got lucky...mine is straight...same gap on both sides....it just needed a little support on the passenger side.

Sent from my Motorola Xyboard
 
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