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They have 75/140 in all the gearbox and rear diff for as long as I can remember. So that wasn't a attempt to quit it down. Switch to straight 90w. See if it helps.

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What about putting in expandable foam in the drive shafts? Sounds like the cardboard in the new shafts is not the fix! I'm thinking that MAYBE, the expandable foam would be more "solid" and fill the inside of the shafts more completely than just the cardboard unless the cardboard is ground up and packed solid inside? Drill a couple of small diameter holes on opposite ends ofthe shaft so the air can escape if needed and you could also see then when the shafts are full of the foam.(Not sure if the ends of the shafts are open) I would think that possibly the foam would absorb some of the noise coming through the shafts??? Do you know how the cardboard in the new replacement shafts is installed? Is it ground up etc?

The most noticeable differance from the things that I have tried was the solid carrier bearing mount. I wasn't sure about installing it due to the fact that I feel that the shafts have to have some flexability with the movement of the driveline and the flex of the chassis etc. Not sure that a solid mount is correct.
 

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You don't want aby flex in a drive line . It should run true and balanced. But when you are limited to the amount of space you got they have to undersize what is needed. I personally don't see the foam helping. It may help with the sound but the only way to fix the problem is find the problem. Everyone that has one if these things with the bad vibration needs to file a complaint. There's a thread on here about the 13 steering coupler. It took three yrs but they did nothing till the government made them do a recall and redesign of the coupler. The website is listed in the thread. That vibration as bad as it is. Will whip the gearbox and front diff out over time .

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Long post, but maybe it will help! I have a 2021 Commander Max XT 1000R purchased end of August last year so no warranty. (Wasn't smart enought to buy the extended warranty) When I bought the unit, the noise was present and both the Service Manager and my salesperson acknowledged the noise and they actually spent most of one day trying to find where the noise was coming from before I took posession. Took the unit anyway with knowing the noise was there. Recently, at 598 miles I changed fluid in the rear transmission/differential. The fluid came out copper/brass colored. The magnetic plug had no metal particles stuck to it, just the fluid was goldish colored. I took a sample of the gerar lube and had our local Detroit Diesel shop send it in. I received that sample report back and the report states high silicon level and indicated thrust washer/bearing wear indicated. I sent a copy of the oil sample report to a customer service rep from BRP that I had emailed earlier this spring when I reached out inquiring about what could be done. What BRP said was that in order for them to even determine any type of assistance, I would need to take the unit to a certified BRP shop, they would need to disassemble, repair, and I would need to pay the repair in full, provide proof and then they would look at the possibility of assisting in the claim. In the parts chart in the "Gear Case 2" schematic, their is a thrust washed that may be the issue. Our local BRP parts guy has no updated part number or any knowledge of a newer or differant thrust washer or any other updated parts, so they could take everythiong apart, find a failed part, replace with the new parts that are the same as what I currently have from the factory and still have the same noise/issue. So after all this, has anyone else changed fluid in the rear tanny/differentail and have it look like mine? Of all the Can Am Commanders sold for 2021, no one has confirmed or determine what is the fiix yet? I really struggle that someone or some dealership has not shared a fix. For myself, I have wrapped both drive shafts in foam that you use to wrap hot water pipes in your home. Zip tied them on to help quiet down the noise that is transferring through them from the rear transimission/differential. It has helped, but is not the fix. Thoughts?
 

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I changed my oil at 300mi. when i had the skid plates out for noise diagnosis. It looked exactly like yours. spoke with a very knowledgeable dealer and was told that the color is the result of and additive BRP puts in there for "break-in". To get an accurate analysis, of your trans fluid, you'll likely have to test the next 2 or 3 samples.
As I stated previously in this thread, my buggy makes the noise with the driveshaft COMPLETELY removed. Any vibration alteration of the shaft, will likely quiet it down, but not fix the problem. The shaft is NOT the problem, even though BRP insists that it is. I was told by BRP " these are off road machines, not Cadillacs, and the noise is NORMAL" !!! Well , I say BULLSHIT !! My 30+ years of professional automotive & powersports experience tells me differently.
I foresee a law suit against BRP over this deal. It's a known issue, and they continue to build them without addressing the problem.
The problem is incorrect gear lash between the input ring & pinion gears. That's why machines have the noise in neutral and revved up.... those gears are still turning. Because of the design of the trans, checking & setting gear lash is a labor intensive job. This is why BRP chooses not to address the problem. Manufacturing tolerances are too broad, and the monkeys assembling these units do not have the time/skills to get it right.
 

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I changed my oil at 300mi. when i had the skid plates out for noise diagnosis. It looked exactly like yours. spoke with a very knowledgeable dealer and was told that the color is the result of and additive BRP puts in there for "break-in". To get an accurate analysis, of your trans fluid, you'll likely have to test the next 2 or 3 samples.
As I stated previously in this thread, my buggy makes the noise with the driveshaft COMPLETELY removed. Any vibration alteration of the shaft, will likely quiet it down, but not fix the problem. The shaft is NOT the problem, even though BRP insists that it is. I was told by BRP " these are off road machines, not Cadillacs, and the noise is NORMAL" !!! Well , I say BULLSHIT !! My 30+ years of professional automotive & powersports experience tells me differently.
I foresee a law suit against BRP over this deal. It's a known issue, and they continue to build them without addressing the problem.
The problem is incorrect gear lash between the input ring & pinion gears. That's why machines have the noise in neutral and revved up.... those gears are still turning. Because of the design of the trans, checking & setting gear lash is a labor intensive job. This is why BRP chooses not to address the problem. Manufacturing tolerances are too broad, and the monkeys assembling these units do not have the time/skills to get it right.

Hey all I've been keeping an eye on this thread for a few days now. I work at a ski resort, supervising the offroad vehicle adventure program. I'm also in charge of maintenance of our fleet of machines, which has recently begun to grow with the arrival of the first of five 2022 commander 1000 max's. I very well know of the sounds you all are referring to in this thread. Our machine just hit all of 19 hours, and it has made that infernal rattle since the first moment we had it. When we get the next machine or two, we will be comparing them to see if it is indeed the same deal across the majority of machines, and if necessary we will be digging into them to try and "fix" it. Hopefully we can all trade some useful information here.
 
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