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Pulled my drive shafts, took them to a driveline shop to ck for straightness & balance. They were out spec by .035" at multiple locations.
Basically shaped like a cork screw.
 

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There are other issues with mine beside the driveshafts. I have driven this without the front shafts for about for about 200 mi. there seems to be gear lash noise coming from the trans. CanAm is trying to figure out what the issue is, but at this point they have no idea. They are going to replace the front shafts, but one of the 2 is BO until Nov. I may have some custom made before then.

One thing you need to try... lock the rear diff, and see if the noise/vibration get worse. This seem to be occurring on some machines, which tells me that its directly related to the diff. ring & pinion lash. Again, this is most violent up to 4900/5000 RPM... then its like flipping a switch, and becomes a completely different machine... smooth , quiet, sweet !!


Please post back if you try the "diff lock" about your results.
 

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I will do once I get my machine back from the dealer. 100% agree, the drive line goes into a resonant condition. In other words once the natural frequency of the driveline is met, ie.4600RPM, it goes into a resonance condition. Gnerally to fix these kind of problems, you either have to fix the source, cut the transmission path or mask the speaker where the noise is radiating from.
 

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I will do once I get my machine back from the dealer. 100% agree, the drive line goes into a resonant condition. In other words once the natural frequency of the driveline is met, ie.4600RPM, it goes into a resonance condition. Gnerally to fix these kind of problems, you either have to fix the source, cut the transmission path or mask the speaker where the noise is radiating from.
[/QUO
Yes. In my opinion, the solid carrier brgs. that have been suggested, & rubberbands that CanAm suggested putting on the drive shafts, is like putting a Band-Aid on a compound fracture!! It might stop the bleeding, but doesn't address the problem This is only treating a symptom, not addressing the cause of the vibration. It's not the noise that is the problem, it's the destruction that the vibration is doing to the bearings & gears. The noise just tells us there is a problem.
 

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Well can am isn't going to fix the issue. So I guess best option other than the solid carrier is 100% true straight single balanced shaft with a heavy enough wall that it doesn't lope.

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Nice positive attitude!!

Maybe with constructive conversation we can help CanAm find/solve the issue

Additionally, whether they (CanAm) fix the issue or not, my statements apply to ANYTHING mechanical!!!
 

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Lol been dealing with manufacturing defects sense 2011. It took 3 yrs and the federal government to force them to recall and fix the steering on the 13 commander with dps. They never fix a previous yr problem they upgrade the next yr model and if you are lucky the part will work on previous yr. 11/13 rear diff didn't get a suitable replacement till 2016 they knew it was a problem Day one of 2010 when the 11 models hit the show room. They only fix what is going to cost them money under warranty and most of the time they claim it's a wear item or it was abuse. But we will sale you a new defective part with no warranty of course . Once the factory 6 month warranty is up you best have a really good aftermarket warranty. Or just know up front that you are going to be doing a lot of repairs on your own. But in can am defense they are no different than most if the off road companies. Get your money up front and then customer service goes out the window . You are just a Vin tag after that.

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My brand new 2021 Commander Max Xt has this exact issue right out of the gate, it rattles like hell around 4600RPM. It also sweats front differential oil as well after the first drive!!! Very disappointing after spending 24K. I have it at the dealer for the diff leak now and mentioned the set screw solution for the rattle. Not sure if they are going to follow thru with the set screw or not? Is there an after market carrier bearing that you can purchase for the 2021 Commander Max XT?

I also bought brand new 2021 can am 1000R max xt. Makes same vibration…right off the trailer from the dealer. At first I thought it was the after market roof the installed. After investigating could trace it to down below. my problem is this….. if it’s in park it rattles still at same rpm, as when I’m driving. Shaft should not be moving in park. But get the vibration approx 2800 rpm ( give or take) so to me to waste time in the carrier bearing or the set screw would not take care of the problem ( as other people have mentioned) I have zero faith in these dealerships as they didn’t know as much as I did when sellling me the machine.F ing ridiculous $27k and can’t even ride it!!! I bought this machine for can am reliability….. I believe there is a flaw in the way they ran something so that at certain engine rpm it rattles/vibrates. I will be pulling the belly skid plate and seeing if I can narrow it down and will report what I find. Otherwise when I head back to dealer will be to drop this machine off for my money back!
 

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The fix for this must be more expensive to Can Am than the warranty claims they receive so this is why they probably wont address the root problem. They need to improve the drive-line balance, spline mesh engagement and most likley increase the stiffness somehow since this will increase the natural frequency so that the natural frequency will be above the operating range.
 

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My biggest question and maybe nobody can answer it. " Does this vibration / rattle cause real harm to the trans or differentials?" I know vibration can cause mechanical failures in general but in this case is it enough or just very annoying only.
I wonder if there are any posts in older units that had trans or diff failures that correlate to this vibration.
 

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The older machines still had the motor in the middle . So front drive shaft was shorter. But I don't recall anyone having issues with front sgaft till the machines got motor and Trans pushed to the rear. Would guess new machines the shaft is 2' minimum longer in length. Plus the older machines the rear spline yoke bolted on is didn't just slide over the shaft.

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If you have same rattle, but its occurring in "Park", it can only be the engine or drive clutches. Nothing else is moving.
Taking the time to remove the 100 or so blind rivets to remove skid plates, seems unnecessary.
 

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Well like I said I just bought it, this all seems unnecessary to me, literally 2 weeks ago, tried to do a break in but the vibration is too much too ignore. So just called dealer that I again, just 2 weeks ago bought this machine, after the run around finally sent me to service who was like… uhhhh sooo do you have warranty? I answered yes! It was bought 2 weeks ago has manufacturer 6 month warranty and I purchased the extended warranty through you!
Answer; ok…… I guess bring it in and we will see what we can do. So I’m taking it in tomorrow morning and will update as happens.
 
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