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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good morning. I picked up a 2015 Commander 1000 LTD. I had a Prowler previously and wanted something with a little more power/speed while still being able to use for work. Found this and figured I’d give it a shot.

Let me start by saying this thing has been rode hard and put up wet. I put a low offer out there as it was in worse shape than I thought when I got to it in person. Seller took it. Has about 3800 miles on it.

I’m going to get it going and reliable. Good news is that the engine seemed fine and no leaks. But it very noticeably lurched hard at take off. Seller said it was normal as these machines do not like going slow. The clutch also rattled pretty loudly. I told him I doubt it came off the line not being able to take off smoothly. It’s probably a belt or cvt issue. He said he “just” put a new belt on it. It’s a Gates G Force 30G3750 (just found out). Anyways, I like a challenge so I bought it.

Off the bat, I did a full inspection when I got it home. Found the front driver CV axle was shot and clicking. Ordered a used one as I don’t want to upgrade anything yet. I’ve since learned the LTD might not have been my best option as aftermarket is limited without deleting it. I digress.

I replaced the axle and replaced fluids in transmission and front/rear differentials. Fluids came out clean and no leaks I can see. Except for the stator cover and one valve cover. I didn’t change the oil yet as I’m waiting on the gaskets.

I pulled the CVT cover off and didn’t see any obvious issues. So I pulled off the belt and the primary. Belt looks okay on visual inspection. Measures about 32.7mm wide. Pulled the primary and noticed flat spots on rollers and that the arms had worn a groove into the side of the cup. Causing them to “stick” about halfway. One way bearing seemed to work but those little springs were shot.

Anyway, while I was in there I sent off my primary to have the lock up mod installed along with new slides, rollers, and buttons installed. Also a new one way bearing. I was sure that this, coupled with a low engagement spring would help.

And it did. A good bit. Rattle gone and I’m starting at lower RPM. I’m getting 1750 to 1800 RPM engagement. Not necessarily the 1650 claimed. At least not that I can feel. When engaging, it still wants to grab and stop and the rear tires jump (on concrete). My prowler does not do this. No other side by side I’ve ridden in does this.

I think I still have a problem. I don’t want to throw anymore parts at it without truly diagnosing the issue. I’m comfortable enough to proceed on with other items as I don’t believe it’s a transmission or diff problem. Smooth as butter once I get going.

My first instinct is to put s new belt in. However, not seeing any issues with this one.

I’m sure I’ll get a few people responding saying “it’s normal”. That makes no sense. I should be able to load on a trailer without hitting the bike in front. Or back up to a trailer safely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I didn’t try that necessarily. I did pull the belt off yesterday and cleaned it and the sheaves with dawn dish soap and green scotch brite pads. No change. I can try to sand the sides with sandpaper next. Need to pull off the covers again. Will likely be next weekend as I’m about to go out of town a few days.
 

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What belt is on your machine?

I believe some belts are slightly wider, including the maverick belt, which I run. I believe a wider belt will grab a little sooner. I have the low speed engagement spring too. I can putt around pretty slowly.
 

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What belt is on your machine?

I believe some belts are slightly wider, including the maverick belt, which I run. I believe a wider belt will grab a little sooner. I have the low speed engagement spring too. I can putt around pretty slowly.
According to STM, the Gates belt is wider. It caused my new clutch to touch the inside of the variator cover. Their solution was for me to buy the Maverick belt.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Rim Automotive exterior


Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas Auto part Nut
 

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When I bought mine a few months ago (2015 XT 800) the guy said it only had 100 miles on the belt. It was lurching and hopping on slow take offs. I wasn't worried as I've seen this with my outlanders... low engagement spring and maverick belt now and it's smooth as butter. It also had a gates belt

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Before I buy a belt, I’m going to disassemble the secondary clutch and check for wear. I’ve been slammed with being out of town and trying to get a new bumper installed.

By the way, disassembling the front fairings on this is a nightmare. I’m replacing the mudguards as they are all cracked and broken. This has to be the most poorly designed plastic assembly ever. It’s awful.
 

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My 12 LTD lurched horribly upon takeoff and deceleration. Replacing a badly worn helix fixed it in my case. As for your concern about a LTD...if the components in the air system are intact and working the best thing to do is totally disregard the fact that it has an AUTO mode and run it strictly in MANUAL. My problems went to zero after taking this advice a few years back. Set the front and back to whatever you want and go. In AUTO it is constantly adjusting for speed, weight, cornering...etc. Works great on an Escalade or Navigator but not so hot in one of these. And as for lift, it lifts higher in MAN than the highest setting in AUTO. I can easily set mine to have more ground clearance than my nephew's 15 XT with a 2.5" lift.
...and I agree on the plastics. I wanted to do a color change on mine but gave up the idea pretty quick. What a nightmare.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yea. The air components seem to work well. No leaks that I can tell. I’ll play around with manual once I get it back together.

I should have made a video on how to remove the plastics. However, I’m not sure what I’m doing is the “right” thing to do. Couldn’t find anything in there service manuals either.
 
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