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Discussion Starter #1
Anybody have experience with any of the big bore kits and/or intake manifolds. I like Warranty Killer Performance, and they make a big bore kit for the Commander engine. The big kit, plus a performance intake could get you up to about 100hp. That sounds like a metric crap ton of fun to me. Any thoughts or experience on how to waste my money getting another 15 hp. would be appreciated.
 

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Well for probably the same money or less you could switch yours over to a mav engine with 102hp. No big bore kit needed.

Change pistons heads and cams. Then flash ecm for mav map. Yeah just looked it up just the kit is 1900$ and change then you need new high flow Injectors and the ecm flashed to handle the upgrades . But it’s been a long given fact on these baby’s it’s a 100$+ per hp plus the time. You can find good used complete mav engine for 2000$
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Is the Maverick engine a straight, simple, swap? What could you add to that to make it badder? Maverick engine with a big bore kit!!!! I'm in!!
 

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Only thing different is piston heads and cams. And the ecm is programmed for the 102 instead of 85 hp. Same motor and gearbox just different internals. You can swap out the commander I take for the mace intake then find you some aftermarket dual exhaust.
 

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Probably be cheaper to sale what you got and buy a x3. You have 85 hp now . And enough suspension to use 102 in a straight line only. From the factory the commander has 75% motor and 25% suspension. So after you spend 5000$ on suspension you still won’t have the ability to out run a Maverik unless they guy in Maverik can’t drive . The commander is a go fast utility machine and you can throw all the money you want into it and it will still be a commander that can go fast in a straight line . Already been there it took 5000 in suspension to out run the 85hp .
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I probably better focus on other upgrades. I don't need more power. Like you say, buy another machine. I think I'll get a Maverick swap rear diff for when mine craps the bed. What do you recommend for upgrading, or replacing the front diff, when the time comes? I like to try and have parts before hand, if I can. I've been really pleased with my WKP low gearbox. Thanks for all your advice and info since I've become a member. I constantly read old posts, too. There is a true wealth of knowledge in this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I still need to get a moose with the commander, too. So, if I win the lottery, or my girlfriend loosens her grip, maybe I'll buy a speed machine, but I'm good, and happy with the Commander. The stuff I've added since getting is great, and almost all recommendations of this forum.
 

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New here, but Shock Therapy in Phoenix can make your Commander suspension do whatever you want it to for $1500, springs and re-valve
 

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Hope they can do better on a commander than they did on the x3. Way over priced and the springs they used were way to soft for high speed .

But yes anything would be better than stock.
 

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Interesting, we just poke along trail riding thru the mountains in northern AZ between 10 and 40 mph.
I just acquired a 2012 Commander X 1000. Hated it at first, rode like crap. Discovered that none of the shocks had nitrogen in them were full of dirt, water, and low on oil. Tore em apart cleaned, resealed, and recharged the nitrogen. Huge difference in ride. Haven't had the time or knowledge to play with the adjustments yet. This unit already had some sort of dual springs on it, no idea who's springs or what spring rate they are.
Since I know little to nothing about this side by side I'll be perusing this site quite a bit.
 

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They are silver. You know anything about revalving these Fox 2.0 Podium shocks? When I had them apart I noticed that they had a bunch of shims stacked above and below whatever the piece is between them.
I only mentioned Shock Therapy due to a friends experience but agree with you on the cost of that service, expensive!
Also have a friend with a Maverick X3 that went to a place called MTS. He was really happy with the work they did but again expensive and not in my tax bracket.
 

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Yeah I had mine done at gforce suspension in Johnson city TN. I changed springs till I got the ride I wanted then he done the valving. And it was spot on. And yes you got your compression and rebound shim packs and the piston is in the middle of the packs. I had one buddy spend 3500$ on shocks and springs from shock therapy for his general. When he called to ask questions their reply was the general is just to top heavy and it’s not a sport machine it’s a farm use machine . But yet they didn’t say one word about they’re work sucking until after he spent the money . And he sold the machine cause after doing the switch it was on its doors more after the new shocks than before . So he sold it and bought a wildcat xx. He’s seems to be much happier now. No more door flops .
 

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Well that's a bummer to spend that kind of money on suspension and end up worse than you started.
So if the springs on this unit are Racertech is that good or bad? Since we do not race or go to the dunes and like a smooth ride is there a better choice of spring that you would suggest?
 

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Rt springs are little stiff at slow speeds. Anything over 25 mph they shine. I ended up going with different rates and lengths springs . To even it out from the bottom end to the top.
 

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I'm going to play around with the compression and rebound adjustments some before I move to different springs. does there need to be the exact amount of compression and rebound shims on either side of the piston or can I remove some?
I think I want to put power steering in this thing before I spend money on springs. Got a direction to point me in for that?
By the way, thank you for all the input, it is appreciated.
 

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Here is the testing numbers we came up with when doing the RT springs . Each setting has its own job. They are unlike a single compression screw . Where you make it softer or stiffer by turning it in or out. Low speed compression controls traction / weight distribution. Not softer or stiffer . High speed is what controls stopping it from bottoming out on hits. And rebound speeds or slows down how fast it returns to the neutral position . So if it’s to fast it will push off of everything you hit. And if it’s to slow it will pack down and stay there not return to neutral. Rebound is probably the most important setting For handling low speed being 2nd then high speed .
 
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