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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I still really like my Commander. I started out with a 2011 Commander X. It was the 75th unit built. The engine was made in Austria. Anyways over the years I have put about everything on it you can.

Weller intake
Maverick intake plenum
Muzzy exhaust
spin on oil filter
external oil cooler
PCV - with Autotune set to 12.5 AFR
ECU reflash
Maverick rear diff
power steering
Blingstar doors
EMP roof
lights
Ecoxgear stereo with a big sub
dual battery
Magnum Long Travel 4" with rear wheels also 4" extended wheel. base

Anyways I have a lot into it and it is great condition. I just need some more HP to go up the really steep dunes.

I called MRRPM today and explained my needs. Pump gas 10-15 HP with reliability. I will be buying and installing maverick heads with 1040 big bore at 12:1 compression. They told me it should give 20 HP. That should be enough to keep the momentum up for the big hills.

I am excited to get the hardware and get to work. I talked cams with them
and they told me the Commander has idling problems with Maverick or aftermarket cams and to use the Commander cams. This whole kit was only $700. I probably won't install it until close to the end of dune season. I would rather wrench in the off season in case of difficulties with it.

I don't have access to a dyno so it is all seat of the pants.

The price was certainly reasonable, jugs, pistons and ready to go heads.

I am sure I will need to buy gaskets, studs and other hardware.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
I still really like my Commander. I started out with a 2011 Commander X. It was the 75th unit built. The engine was made in Austria. Anyways over the years I have put about everything on it you can.

Weller intake
Maverick intake plenum
Muzzy exhaust
spin on oil filter
external oil cooler
PCV - with Autotune set to 12.5 AFR
ECU reflash
Maverick rear diff
power steering
Blingstar doors
EMP roof
lights
Ecoxgear stereo with a big sub
dual battery

Anyways I have a lot into it and it is great condition. I just need some more HP to go up the really steep dunes.

I called MRRPM today and explained my needs. Pump gas 10-15 HP with reliability. I will be buying and installing maverick heads with 1040 big bore at 12:1 compression. They told me it should give 20 HP. That should be enough to keep the momentum up for the big hills.

I am excited to get the hardware and get to work. I talked cams with them
and they told me the Commander has idling problems with Maverick or aftermarket cams and to use the Commander cams. This whole kit was only $700. I probably won't install it until close to the end of dune season. I would rather wrench in the off season in case of difficulties with it.

I don't have access to a dyno so it is all seat of the pants.

The price was certainly reasonable, jugs, pistons and ready to go heads.

I am sure I will need to buy gaskets, studs and other hardware.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Hood Car
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Hood
Glasses Goggles Ecoregion Sky Sunglasses
 

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Nice looking rig. Though I’m in no need for extra horsepower I’m in a similar position having added a number of accessories over the years to really make my 13 my own. I could not imagine the cost of buying the new model commander now and outfitting with the same accessories. Prices for this stuff in Canada is insane. I think I’ll simply keep updating the one I have as these older models overall are still great machines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'll probably end up spending about $1500 by the time I'm done. If I can line up with that hill and climb it everytime it will be worth it. I am about 50% at making it now and when I don't make it backing down from close to the top isn't fun.
I am pretty good at it now, still not fun.,
 

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Can't wait for an update. I'm about ready for a new rear diff, what do you think of your Maverick upgrade? I haven't done anything to my motor but a CV tech primary and STM secondary seemed to bring it to life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Can't wait for an update. I'm about ready for a new rear diff, what do you think of your Maverick upgrade? I haven't done anything to my motor but a CV tech primary and STM secondary seemed to bring it to life.
The Maverick rear diff is fine. No more whining. It wasn't too much hassle. The drive shaft bolts were the worst part. I received my first big shipment from MRRPM. I am ordering things that I will need for assembly now. Dowells etc. Tomorrow I'll check ring end gaps and put the rings on the pistons. I'll oil them up good and put them in ziplock bags until I am ready to install. I have read the manual a bunch of times and watched videos. I do that and prethink it to avoid overlooking something. I can't believe the low prices for all the MRRPM parts. What a bargain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Now I am busy measuring ring end gaps labelling pistons with the respective cylinder etc, I have ordered several other pieces to make sure I have everything when I get ready to make the switch
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well 3 full days and it is alive. It runs and sounds the same in the garage. MR RPM said to use the Commander cams because it won't idle Maverick or aftermarket cams. Has to do with the ECU. I did all the work in the frame. Never again. The biggest pain is the short piston. The circlips are pita and getting the piston into the jug. The oil wiper rings are flimsy, I destroyed on and had to get more parts. Everything fit and it runs good, I can't wait to get some time to test it. My AFR is rich at 12 so I will need to make some adjustments.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Looking back on everything (hindsight), I would pull the engine and put it on the bench. Extra parts on hand is always good. Get cover gaskets for both sides (incase timing chains become an issue). Buy one extra set of rings, buy extra circlips. The Maverick heads take a different plug you will need the Maverick plugs and boots. Watch the videos. Remember there are 2 top dead centers, one for ignition and one for exhaust. The timing marks on the timing chain sprocket will keep you straight. Get the crank lock to lock the engine on TDC. Get the cam lock to guarantee proper cam to sprocket alignment, the holes are slightly slotted on the sprocket. Ring compressors are great but get one you can get off after the rings are in the cylinder.

Put a fan on the engine and heat soak it a few times varying the throttle, pay attention for leaks, odd sounds etc. Retorque cylinders, check valve lash and change oil.

That is where I am at. I need the desert to give me an under 90 degree day so I can break-in / test.

If this does give me close to 20% power increase it will be worth it and tuning the clutch for it will be fun.

Tools spare parts etc. were around $1200

Only premium fuel now but that is all I used anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
tomorrow is the big day. I drove up and down the street tonight. Everything is fine. Tomorrow will tell. I am going to stay in gravel where easy retrieval is possible and break it in. I imagine the first couple hours will be within a mile of my truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I am having fuel issues. The Power Commander V with Autotune and POD 300 are not giving good data. The AFR's are reading 12 and the machine is running lean. It was pinging so I parked it and shot guns. I am scratching my head with the Power Commander stuff. I am going to see if the dynotuners in the area can set the ECU up with a flash and dyno tune. That would be optimal. Then I could take all the PCV crap off.
 

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Don't know what to did to auto tune it. But you have to run at low end rpm for so long then save it . Then repeat mid and high.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Don't know what to did to auto tune it. But you have to run at low end rpm for so long then save it . Then repeat mid and high.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
I luckily have an ear that can hear unhappiness in an engine. Even though the AFR's said 12. Every time I even thought about blipping it the sound was not good.

I sure hope Nate at Alba can set the ECU on the Dyno. That would be a huge relief. I disconnected and reconnected all the cables. It seems good now but I would rather have the info in the Dyno.

Thanks
 
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