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Discussion Starter #1
Time to replace the front wheel bearings and am looking for a better bearing then OEM, if there is one. I did a search and saw the Timken #513116 mentioned as a replacement. However the post was for a 2012 Commander. Will that bearing fit a 2015?
 

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If you order timken bearings don’t be surprised if a different bearing is packaged in a Timken bag and in a Timken box . Last four I bought were the bearings in the picture but in Timken bags and boxes. With timkens safety seal in tacked . Next time I order bearings I will just order the part number on the bearing received. Skf bearings are hard to beat. And Timken will package any bearing that meets there spec and quality.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Purchased the bearing and also the bearing greaser from uatv-tech. Removed the old bearing add inserted the new one with no issues using my shop press. I used a 2" PCV fitting under the knuckle to press the new fitting in. The 2" PVC fitting is the perfect size.
I had some difficulty getting grease into the bearing using the grease tool. Most of the grease would come out of the zerk fitting and grease gun tip. Took quite a few pumps to finally get enough grease into the bearing. Tried two different grease guns and also did the bearing on the other wheel with the same issues.
I watched the video on using the grease tool by Machined Integrations and there was no grease leaking out of the zerk fitting. Is the Machined Integrations tool a different design that works better?
 

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I've pretty much quit using grease couplers after I discovered grease needles. Theyre also good for greasing everything on the commander. I use one like this but mine has rubber around the tip. Amazon.com: Lincoln Lubrication 5803 Grease Needle Nozzle: Automotive

Push the ball down in the tip of the zerk with the tip of the needle and fill through the zerk with no need for a coupler.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
One of the grease couplers I used is like new, which is why I switched to that one, so I don't think it's that. Could be the zerk.
I've got one of them grease needles, I wish I had thought of using it, I'll give it a try.
Thanks guys
 

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If the hole inside is off . That could be a cause as well . Measure from lip to hole then measure from outer race to center . See if it’s off .
 

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I'm thinking I got my bearing greasing tool from UATV-TECH as well, and had no problems with using it.

10 pumps for each of my new front wheel bearings was all I needed, which I got from Ed as well. That whole packing bearings by hand from the old days? I was in heaven with this tool!



-Kris
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I tried the grease needle and get the same results.
I can pump grease through the tool with no problem if it's not in the bearing. It takes a lot of force to pump with the tool inserted in the bearing.
I measured the distance of the holes on the tool to the split on the bearing inner race and get .670" on both, so the holes are in the right place.
 

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I've never seen one of these bearings. Is it a 2 piece inner race? A 1 piece with a groove with small holes for the grease to go through? Any chance the bearing is full of grease?
 

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It’s double roller two inner races. And if you pump one to many times it will push the seals out. So no its not full. Hole Isn’t in line with the race gap bad zerk or hole in tool is blocked .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well it is what it is I guess. Holes are lined up with gap between races, replaced zerk, same issue with grease needle, hole in tool is not blocked - grease easily flows out of both holes when not inserted into bearing.
 

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Did they not take any grease at all? Maybe they're full, and you're just short of pushing the seals out. You could soak them in walrus oil as a last resort.
 
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