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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello have searched and read and found no answer to my questions.I was wondering if anyone hear could help me if send me in the correct direction.I purchase a 2011 can am commander almost a year ago and noticed a issue when letting off the fuel the engine brake would engage very hard and jerky.I took to the dealer and they drove it and looked at the clutch and stated they thought it was the belt.I had a cam an outlander before and I consider myself fimilar with the belts and do not believe this to be the cause.I installed a new belt I had ordered for my spare.still same issue.I feel like I learned to work with the fuel pedal to keep pressure on it to keep the engine brake from engaging.I still seem to have issue and today ran out prefect until about three hours in started to have violent brake issues wheel locking up and severe nose diving to the point I was nervous.I have read on how to disengage the engine brake by removing spring and two pins But I ride a lot of mountains and hills and wouuld like to keep my engine brake.So my questions is what are the controlers of the engine brake and how can i test them to see if one is failing or faulty??? Any insight would be appreciated.
 

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When was the last time the one way bearing was cleaned and greased?
 

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Dealer probably didnt check it either when you took it in? Did they pull the cover of just sell you a belt?
 

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Wow, Not sure what would cause that other than over heating or to soft of metal in the castings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
How should I fix??

Replace helix and stock secondary backing or STM Secondary ???
And If STM Secondary do I have to replace the primary or can I wait till later and run my OEM primary???
 

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I would say that the chronological events were the three composite helix fingers were the first to wear thru to the metal, possibly due to overheating but probably a bad factory issued part. When the tip of the helix is down to metal, it will start wearing faster as will the ramps on inner sheave, eventually wear and round down so much that it will start slipping a third of a turn at a time. It looks like that happened in the picture with the scrape marks. That probably happened your last three hours with the jerking is when the helix was jumping 120° at a time on you.

sent by a twin turboed RAZR
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That makes a lot of sense.So saying this theory is true.What would be the best way to cool the CVT box .I have already done the heat and sound wrap, but this may be holding more heat in the box.So what has the most bang for my buck. Fabircate a internal blower motor for the box to force the air out or remove the exhaust and send out to have it ceramic coated??
 
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