To the question, there’s some good videos of it on YouTube and some in depth discussion on here that explains it pretty good, much better than I can. But I think it works like a Detroit locker. Neither tire can ever slip, but one can turn faster than the other so it’s not as hard to turn the steering wheel. Because of that, it will corner fine.
Also, superatv makes a locker which works just like polaris’ locker. And I guess halo still makes their locker. Both of those have a second switch you flip. They are considerably more expensive than the torq locker.
The cheapest locker is a little plate that just mechanically locks both sides. But I cannot imagine anyone wanting that for any machine other than a dedicated mud bogger.
Under power, the diff locks the front axle shafts together. While coasting, they unlock. Forwards or backwards has no effect. If you want to turn sharp you need to be coasting or switch to 2wd, otherwise the machine will want to push straight.
From their literature and discussions, I was under the impression that one tire could turn faster than the other, hence the ratcheting action of the locker. That is, neither wheel can ever turn slower than the input power of the driveshaft into the diff, but one can turn faster like when you are steering and one wheel is pushed faster than the other. I thought that was the point of the ratcheting action of the internals of the locker. Is that incorrect?
I'm very interested in this, as I've been wanting one. How do you like yours?
This is how ours works. Its the Hilliard style diff, with a sprague, rollers, and armature inside. It allows the ratcheting action inside that makes it possible for the axles to remain engaged and turn at different speeds for easier turning. We also have the rapid engagement diff upgrade that locks at 1/2 turn, instead of 3 or 4 like the OEM. Honestly, the Hilliard style SwifTrac diff, Polaris style, is pretty awesome. I know it hurts to say Polaris style anything over here, but the Hilliard model is pretty brilliant. We can just call it the Hilliard style, and leave out Polaris anything. Lol!
I'm pretty sure its just because the 2011-2012 models had different drive shaft part numbers, and we didn't have a 11 or 12 in the shop to test it out. I'm digging for more info, but I'm pretty sure that's it. It should bolt right up and work, and if not...it would still be a pretty easy mod.
Edit: Just ran this up the flagpole, and we're going to go ahead and update the fitment to 2011+. They have different diff part numbers, but everything supersedes besides the complete diff. It'll bolt right up.
When I’m running my tracks it stays locked up when in 4x4 making it very heavy steering . It’s ok with tires . Harder steering than stock but ok . But the locker with tracks is terrible. I had the halo just waiting to go back in after I rebuilt it . So with the halo I can run 4x4 and open front diff and have easy steering . Save the full lock mode for when things get bad .
Less than 900 miles on the diff and less than 200 on the locker.
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