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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I went to Tn. about 2 weeks ago and it gave me a HI TEMP/ LIMP MODE on the screen. So I shut it down. It would over heat just idling within minutes. So I started to kill it when I stopped. I figured it was just an altitude issue, so I let it go. Also, the radiator is 100% clean. The fan will kick on and hold a sheet of paper to the radiator, even in the corners.

Now, I got it back home and unloaded it and left it running for 2 minutes and it did the same thing to me again. I have bled to coolant system to get the air bubbles out of it and still having this problem. Now when I pull the radiator cap, and press the accelerator, coolant shoots out the top of the filler neck when the cap is off. Is this normal? I just want my commander fixed haha. I'm Hoping it's not a blown head gasket. Any help would be awesome guys.

Also, I'm running a mix of water and coolant in my system.
 

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check the thermostat and teh bleeder screws..mine started overheating and it was blowing coolant around the necks on the cylinder. it would get to temp and fan would kick on but it wasnt quick enough not to let it to go to limp mode. had air in there from leaking around screws/necks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well I know its not leaking from either one. I bled it through the bleeder screw and it's on there solid. Also, there's no evidence of it coming through the necks going into the cylinders. My fan will kick on and run continuously like it's not cooling off at all. I'm seriously at a loss here. Could the thermostat be sticking?
 

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Well I know its not leaking from either one. I bled it through the bleeder screw and it's on there solid. Also, there's no evidence of it coming through the necks going into the cylinders. My fan will kick on and run continuously like it's not cooling off at all. I'm seriously at a loss here. Could the thermostat be sticking?
Remove thermostat and run it.
 

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your in la you could run without thermo stat
 

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The manual has us raising the front end first then left side apparently to relieve air pockets. Dumb question but have you tried this? Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So just remove the thermostat and run it to see if that is the problem?

Yea, I've actually done the whole procedure. I strapped it to my 10' trailer and with the help of a high lift jack I did all the steps. Still nothing.
 

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lift front and side to bleed...here is what you do coming from ace fire...with front end lifted and cold motor..pull off the cap..start up engine...give it gas to about 2200 to 2500 rpms add any coolant as needed when the fan cycles the thermo stat opens and you need to shove as much coolant in there as possible..when it starts blowign it out put the cap back on BEFORE LIFTING OFF THE GAS PEDAL...repeat step a couple of times and boom done..when i had to replace my necks..i pulled the cap and put the necks and new bleeder screws on and didnt tighten them..poured a bunch of coolant and just let it keep bleeding thru the screws i wasted some coolant yes but i made sure it didnt have any air..then i tightenend screws down and added more coolant..luckily i didnt ahve to raise front end and follow the steps i just wrote
 

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yea pull the thermo stat out and put in boiler and see if it opens..dont re install upside down tho/
 

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my honda atv ran hot due to stuck thermostat and blew coolant..rip that beast out and she wont stop flowing..i dont ride really cold weather either in Alabama
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I will check that out a little later on. We ride during the winter all the time here, but by then I'll probably have a new thermo anyway.
 

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I just noticed u have an 800. The thermo stars are different n in a diff location. I've never tried on 800 The thermostat for u is on pass side cylinder under the neck
 

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I just noticed u have an 800. The thermo stars are different n in a diff location. I've never tried on 800 The thermostat for u is on pass side cylinder under the neck
Thermostat is incorporated into the passenger side bleeder housing. I think it is held down with two 8mm bolts. Remove those lift housing remove T-stat, reinstall. Top off coolant, bleed air from system. See what happens. From the sound of it you should know in about 5 minutes whether that was your issue.
 

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Yea two long bolts It's built up more than the driver side. Way better than that t crap on the 1000s
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yea, I just stepped out and looked at it. It's about to pour over here though, so Ima dig into it on another day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok, so I did it anyway. I went and pulled the t stat and put it in a pot of water as it warmed up, it slowly opened, but was not fully open when it came to a boil. I ran the bike without it for a second until it started spitting coolant from the area where the t stat goes. No over heat light, so I'm guessing the t stat was the issue.

Now as I was watching it, when I had the cap off pouring coolant in, the level would fluctuate, and then come out like a giesmar, then go back down then come back up again. Is that just how the cooling system works?
 

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Its burping air from the system. It should stop after a while. Or if there is not enough coolant water could be boiling in radiator.
 

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Get a t stat n then follow my ace fire instructions on how to burp
 

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Might put new necks n bleeder screw washers while ur ordering parts. They are dirt cheap n worth replacing now Bc those necks bow with heat
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm stopping by my local dealership today and picking up a t stat and a temp sensor. Might as well start out simple and work my way down.
 
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