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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New harness bars delivered along with the spare rack. Took a bit longer than expected due to first build of it and logs of re-jigging. All set now though - have front & rear harness bars built and ready to install.

Problem though (maybe? Maybe not) is I don't have any sort of hooks or other mechanism/manner to connect harnesses to it. All the harnesses I see come with a ring-style connector that the harnesses is looped through. My bars do not have any sort of harness keeper or other tie-in. I'm planning on running the harnesses through the seat holes as normal so a keeper really isn't needed.

Am I able to just 'un-thread' the eyelet tab and then used the same style looping to just loop it around the harness bar? I think it'll be fine since it's the same 'style' of connection to the mounting point. Pic for reference of eyelet...

 

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Yes just remove the rings loop it around and feed it back through the adjuster rings. Or do like I did being that's a pain to put on and remove. I drilled one 1/2" hole used bolt long enough to go through with one strap on top of the bar and one under then used a lock nut. Tightened nut up far enough to keep belt eyes from rattling but loose enough for them to swivel.
 

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Easiest way to make that decision is how big is your belly? Lol bigger the belly the more the lap belt wants to ride up when bouncing around .
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Install harnesses...it'll be easy they said!

Two days later - they're in. Went with a local SXS fab shop and they built a custom pair of front & rear harness bars as well as a spare tire carrier that connects across the b pillar angle things in the back. Need to finish up the adjustments on the harnesses still to get the final fit/feel. My sternum clip is right now riding at the very tip top of my sternum and I can feel the pressure it's applying to the top of my shoulders.

Few lessons learned and hopefully someone else will find this helpful.

1. Rear seats you do not need to disassemble the seat entirely to remove. Two 10mm bolts underneath, 2 10mm bolts on the backside and the whole thing lifts out. i always was unbolting the 4 10mm bolts on the seat bottom to get into the access panels to do oil changes and inspection...#firstFail

2. You need to be a carnie contortionist to get to the driver's buckle mount. Spent 45 jockeying and using numerous tools to get the driver buckle. #secondFail

3. The passenger buckle mount point is 2" above the skid plate. Over the years mud, dust, dirt and water formed an inseparable bond. I progressed from impact driver, to a 3/8 electric impact wrench, then up to a 1/2" electric impact wrench (which has enough breaking torque to remove my 140ft/lb torqued truck lugs), then on to my 1/2" pneumatic impact capable of 1750 ft/lbs breaking torque. Short of breaking out the 1" impact, I discovered dropping the mid skid plate provided instant access to both driver & passenger buckle mounts, which was then easily removed when using a 36" breaker bar. #thirdFail

 

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Well, you know what they say. Three strikes/fails, and you're out overqualified to work at your dealer's service dept.:)
 
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