That's an interesting fix, would never have considered that to be honest, and talk about simple...
Commander wont start Hot.
Hi guys, my commander 1000 wont start when engine is hot. It starts fine when cold. I replaced the starter solenoid and adjusted the intake and exhaust valves. Still no luck.
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Reason you wouldn’t think about is it has nothing to do with slow cranking . Which is what this whole thread has been about . Cleaning the key only work when the ecm doesn’t recognize it as being the right key. And if ecm doesn’t recognize key it wont crank over at all. And it will tell you on the dash that the dess key isn’t recognized.
Just a follow up, my "no start hot" issue was resolved by replacing the starter solenoid under the dash. Testing Voltage drop across the solenoid showed 12.78 Volts in (battery voltage) and 10 Volts out, which is too much drop. The Solenoid Winding Resistance also was not at spec of "approx. 5 Ohms" reading 4.1 Ohms when tested.
Thanks for the follow up. I have the same issue on a 2011
Hot start issues
Thx, I’ll have to replace mine this winter, I replaced my battery last year with a agm battery, that helped a lot but it still act’s like it’s not getting the full kick when hot. kinda messed up when you are out on the trail and afraid to shut the machine off, and it affects almost all commanders, lots of posts on here about it.
Thx, I’ll have to replace mine this winter, I replaced my battery last year with a agm battery, that helped a lot but it still act’s like it’s not getting the full kick when hot. kinda messed up when you are out on the trail and afraid to shut the machine off, and it affects almost all commanders, lots of posts on here about it.
do you have a pet number for that solenoid? I’m leaning towards that directionGot the exact same issue going on with my '12 Commander 1000 XT. Starts OK cold (cranks slow though), and once the engine is warm after a bit of riding, I get 1 or 2 cranks from the starter and is quits. My battery is 12.78 volts at rest, and only drops to 10.36 volts after turning on the headlights for 2 minutes and then cranking to test voltage drop. Bought a starter rebuild kit and was going to install it yesterday, but decided to test the Solenoid first. Am only getting 10 volts to the starter + post when cranking, and only 10 volts at the Solenoid output terminal too. It shows 12.78 volts at the Solenoid battery side though, so that is too much voltage drop across the Solenoid according to the test procedure I printed out... I'm online ordering a Solenoid as I write this and we'll see how it goes from there... You can get the test procedures from the ManualsLib.com website which details how to test the key switch, start button, Solenoid, Solenoid windings, and starter... I'd recommend doing those tests before you assume it's your starter and tear into the CVT, clutches, etc. to get at it... It would suck to do all that work to replace the starter only to find out later it's your Solenoid, ignition switch, or key switch.... :wink
working on friends 2016 commander, will not start after running it a bit. he bought used, so after reading a lot of this, we decided to replace starter, solenoid, and battery (bad cell) with a new NOCO battery. still will not start after initial crank. And battery drops charge..... Ant ideals out there ....
It the regulator charging the battery when it’s running ?
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i only run it 2 minutes to test if it will crank again, and it wont
How long does it take after running it two minutes for it to start cranking again?
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
i have to charge the battery then it starts this is a new NOCO battery
See post #28. You should see close to 14 volts at battery when running.
will check thanksSee post #28. You should see close to 14 volts at battery when running.
Ok ... 12.8 volts while running ... how do you find your blog on the forum ...will check thanks
That should be your actual battery voltage, so it's not charging. You should check your stator output first. If that's good, then replace the regulator/rectifier. And I would not recommend using an aftermarket regulator. Others have had poor results with them.
Thanks checking nowThat should be your actual battery voltage, so it's not charging. You should check your stator output first. If that's good, then replace the regulator/rectifier. And I would not recommend using an aftermarket regulator. Others have had poor results with them.
checked charging 3 yellow wires no output, checked resistance in rectifier good, put everything together after cleaning post on rectifier and now charging
Did you check the three yellow with meter on ac or dc. Stator puts out ac volts . If on dc that may be why you didn’t show any voltage . But sounds like maybe bad connection if it’s charging now. So you should be good to go now .
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