Is it like it just turns over real slow or barely turns over? The reason I ask is mine used to do that occasionally if it was very hot. I could let it cool 5-10 minutes and it would start. A new battery and fan override pretty much got rid of that issue for me. But I think some of the starters are weaker than others. Yours may need to be replaced.
Commander wont start Hot.
Hi guys, my commander 1000 wont start when engine is hot. It starts fine when cold. I replaced the starter solenoid and adjusted the intake and exhaust valves. Still no luck.
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Is it firing and getting fuel??
It turns really slow...and the starter is hot to the touch. Once is cools it starts right up and runs great. I agree I think the starter is weak.
Sound like starter is going out.
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But you should also check the battery . Have it load tested at auto store . If it’s going bad heat will also cause low voltage when under the load of the starter.
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I was just getting ready to post this same thing, mine is also turning over slow when hot
If a battery is weak it will deliver lower voltage to the starter . Lower voltage will make the starter have way less power . Lower voltage will also increase the amount of amps the starter is pulling . More amps makes way more heat .
Had identical problem. Battery was the culprit.
is your battery relocated or anything? mine is relocated in the back right near the exhuast on my maverick and am thinking it could be the culprit
At the back is where my mav had its battery from the factory. I removed it and mounted a red top optima under the driver seat .
It runs my camera , heater , tunes and dual winches , and light bar . The factory stator lasted just over 600 hours
It runs my camera , heater , tunes and dual winches , and light bar . The factory stator lasted just over 600 hours
do you think heat from exhaust could be hurting mine?
Having a battery at the back is terrible and that’s why they quit doing it . Battery don’t like getting cooked .
My battery is in factory location.
My battery was at the back above the exhaust and all the wiring was melting . I built more heat shields and removed the stock battery
Clean the key!! It has a chip, mine did the same thing, Brillo pad, lightly, works great
Normally when the key is the issue it doesn’t care if the engine is hot or cold . It just doesn’t work .
Done it twice, works great. Or you been bad mud and it has shorted
Got the exact same issue going on with my '12 Commander 1000 XT. Starts OK cold (cranks slow though), and once the engine is warm after a bit of riding, I get 1 or 2 cranks from the starter and is quits. My battery is 12.78 volts at rest, and only drops to 10.36 volts after turning on the headlights for 2 minutes and then cranking to test voltage drop. Bought a starter rebuild kit and was going to install it yesterday, but decided to test the Solenoid first. Am only getting 10 volts to the starter + post when cranking, and only 10 volts at the Solenoid output terminal too. It shows 12.78 volts at the Solenoid battery side though, so that is too much voltage drop across the Solenoid according to the test procedure I printed out... I'm online ordering a Solenoid as I write this and we'll see how it goes from there... You can get the test procedures from the ManualsLib.com website which details how to test the key switch, start button, Solenoid, Solenoid windings, and starter... I'd recommend doing those tests before you assume it's your starter and tear into the CVT, clutches, etc. to get at it... It would suck to do all that work to replace the starter only to find out later it's your Solenoid, ignition switch, or key switch.... :wink
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