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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Sunday morning, I rode my commander around a little and pulled it up and washed it. When I was done, I cranked it up and went to ride. I pulled off and pop pop pop.

I eased up into the garage and made the video below and contacted acefire. I ended up pulling the drive shaft to verify whether the problem was the diff, a u-joint or the gearbox. Ace also contacted Troy and by the time we were done, the problem had been paired down the the pinion in the gearbox. As I understand it, that part is not available separately from the entire gearbox.

Gearboxes from brp are around $1900. Mrrpm has them for $1050. They have a shipment on they way and I'm on the list for one of them.

Couple of questions:
1) Is there a gasket where the box mounts to the motor?
-I see a gasket set in one of the gearbox parts diagrams no. 420684149 but I don't really know what its for.

2) I've replaced the bearing in the gearbox shaft that goes to the secondary before, so I know how to get the engine forward and up (a PITA!). But I didn't pull the entire gearbox off of the engine. What else is there to do other than pull out the gas tank and remove the bolts holding it on? Any tricks or advice at that point?



Edit: WARNING: If you need a gearbox, do not buy from mrrpm. It is NOT the same one can am uses. It is from a different chinese manufacturer - I believe it is likely from the same manufacturer that is used in the odes dominator clones. The tolerances are not the same. I believe they use substandard materials. The distance ring is "glued" in. The counter shaft is a different length than the brp box - this prevents the clutches from fully disengaging. The seals are from a different manufacturer too - both the countershaft seal and the rear seal leaked immediately. But most importantly, the gears either didn't mesh properly or were improperly heat treated or of a substandard material and were destroyed after light use. Mrrpm did not stand behind their product. I bought a new factory gearbox from canampartsguy and it has been great. Mrrpm cost me the price of the gearbox plus additional money trying to fix it and a lot of time. So, well over a $1000 and many hours of wasted time.
 

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If you had the engine up and ahead your right there for removing the box . There is one big O-ring that's seals the gearbox to the engine and one seal in there . It's called through shaft seal . You can get it from a dealer or a bearing store .
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
By the way, are these '11 gearboxes weaker than the new ones? What causes this? No hints that it was about to give - the gearbox seemed to be working fine, until it didn't. Ace can vouch for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah. That was going to be the perfect excuse for getting the maverick diff! But noooo!!
 

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Lol yes I assumed after watching video his super noisy diff and let go.
I'd love to see pics/video of that grenaded diff.




-Kris
 

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He has the noisiest diff I have been around. It squeals at 5 mph. Really don't know how it hasn't ate itself. But he drowns it out with the head thumping speakers up front . Lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Lol yes I assumed after watching video his super noisy diff and let go.
I'd love to see pics/video of that grenaded diff.




-Kris
He has the noisiest diff I have been around. It squeals at 5 mph. Really don't know how it hasn't ate itself. But he drowns it out with the head thumping speakers up front . Lol
Diff is fine... Ace exaggerates - and his ears are still ringing from attacking my speaker with his head - Speaker:1 Ace's head:0.

It's actually pretty quite until about 25 - 30, then it sounds like a 747 taking off - my little jet plane!

But when I recover from the gearbox, I'm going to save for a maverick diff.
 

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my old diff does exactly what you are showing but only while on the bench out of the machine. turning the input with my hand it gets to a spot where it has resistance then pops free, it does it twice per revolution of the input shaft.

funny thing was it still worked while in the machine, never did that popping until I had it out on the bench. the noise that thing made while in my machine was ungodly while on the throttle, let off and it was as quiet as a lamb. I can't believe it never failed. the pinion gear was trashed when I took it apart to see wtf
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
my old diff does exactly what you are showing but only while on the bench out of the machine. turning the input with my hand it gets to a spot where it has resistance then pops free, it does it twice per revolution of the input shaft.

funny thing was it still worked while in the machine, never did that popping until I had it out on the bench. the noise that thing made while in my machine was ungodly while on the throttle, let off and it was as quiet as a lamb. I can't believe it never failed. the pinion gear was trashed when I took it apart to see wtf
That's not the diff doing it in that video. It's the gear box. I pulled the drive shaft. The diff it's fine. It's doing it at the gearbox with the driveshaft out. I just didn't video that. What you're seeing in my vid is likely the result of the ring gear/pinion/whatever you call it in the gear box having a broken tooth/teeth. But we had originally thought it was the diff.
 

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That's not the diff doing it in that video. It's the gear box. I pulled the drive shaft. The diff it's fine. It's doing it at the gearbox with the driveshaft out. I just didn't video that. What you're seeing in my vid is likely the result of the ring gear/pinion/whatever you call it in the gear box having a broken tooth/teeth. But we had originally thought it was the diff.
I'm not suggesting it wasn't the gearbox, I read you had diagnosed the problem by removing the driveshaft. I'm just saying that's what my old diff does on the bench, because of the pinion gear. like your pinion gear, but inside the gearbox...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That's not the diff doing it in that video. It's the gear box. I pulled the drive shaft. The diff it's fine. It's doing it at the gearbox with the driveshaft out. I just didn't video that. What you're seeing in my vid is likely the result of the ring gear/pinion/whatever you call it in the gear box having a broken tooth/teeth. But we had originally thought it was the diff.
I'm not suggesting it wasn't the gearbox, I read you had diagnosed the problem by removing the driveshaft. I'm just saying that's what my old diff does on the bench, because of the pinion gear. like your pinion gear, but inside the gearbox...
Oh I got ya. It had gotten a little confusing on the previous page. Just wanted to make sure. I'm really looking forward to getting back going and then moving on to the diff. Which diff did you go with?
 

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Oh I got ya. It had gotten a little confusing on the previous page. Just wanted to make sure. I'm really looking forward to getting back going and then moving on to the diff. Which diff did you go with?
I put the mav diff in, couldn't take it anymore. we were camping and I told a buddy just to take my commander to get wood...he came back with a horrified look on his face asking me if that horrible noise was "normal". no, no it's not lol
 

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Ugly lookin gear. Looks like ya know what yer doin so best of luck on the operation. I had a similar experience and was actually glad it was my diff. Dealer treated me 100% and came good for all the gears,seals and bearings

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Sorry about the monster pic LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeah. I'm sure I will have to do the diff soon. I really like the bike but it's a shame they didn't make the components as strong as they needed to be.
 

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I thought if I had to cough for the diff I would go with the 1000 XMR diff and drive shaft. And yeah tempered lead gears LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you had the engine up and ahead your right there for removing the box . There is one big O-ring that's seals the gearbox to the engine and one seal in there . It's called through shaft seal . You can get it from a dealer or a bearing store .
Hey Troy, I'm getting an order together - hoping those gearboxes come in soon.

In the pic below, is that the oil seal and o-ring you were talking about?

Would you replace the oil seal if it was not leaking?
 
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