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This past weekend I upgraded the clutch in my 2015 Can-am commander 1000 LTD. I contemplated Three different types of upgrades to the stock primary clutch. #1 Bollax Lockup clutch mod. #2 QSC primary with STM Secondary.#3 Maverick Turbo Parts.

#1 Bollax mod was going to be my first choice. I think that Ed offers a great service and easy way to pay for that service. With that being said I ride every weekend and I didn't want my buggy to be down for too long waiting for parts to come back.

#2 After reading forum posts about the longevity of this upgrade and possible failure I mediately scraped this idea.

#3 This is the upgrade that I chose. Considering I didn't want my buggy down for an extended period of time.I also wanted to use OEM parts since the bike is under warranty for another 3 years.

The reason for the upgrade. I have had belt slippage since new. I am a bigger guy, I carry full tool set and, extra parts for riding. roughly around 800 lbs all the time.

Installation is fairly simple. I started off by ordering a clutch service kit from Uatv-tech. I wanted to service the one-way bearings and needed the clutch removal tools also.

Parts used
420280589 Governor Assy
420280579 inner half
12.9 grade 150mm length 1.75 hex bolt (Fastenal had these)
flat washer and thin washer.(Waiting on 12 mm to 14mm step washer)

Installation requires you to Grind the end of bolt 1/8 to 1/4 off of bolt for CVT cover to fit.

Overall the upgrade is fairly easy.It took me a couple days.Reason being I didn't know about needing a longer bolt and grinding down the end.

After installing Clutch, torque the bolt to 90 ft lbs.


After completing this upgrade, you will need to get a tool to separate the two halves of the primary.You could also take it to a dealer and have them use their tool. The tool is 300-400 dollars.


I will give an update after I have some hours on the new clutch upgrade.
 

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Without seeing the new clutch hub, how does it prevent slip on the poorly tapered crankshaft? I always thought the crankshaft was half the problem.
 

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Where did you get the step washer? Part # and price?

Thanks
 

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Without seeing the new clutch hub, how does it prevent slip on the poorly tapered crankshaft? I always thought the crankshaft was half the problem.

The slipping is in the clutch tapers , not at the crank . The crank taper will hold over a 140 hp . The big mod guys that put 200 to the ground have guys like MR:rpm key the crank .

A person can still remove the weights out of the locked clutch by pushing it closed and then remove the weight with needle nose pliers .

I did this the first time when I was tuning before I got my separating governor cup tool


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Thinking of buying a whole used Turbo primary. Could I just change the weights (I have a 800XT) on the outer half or would I need to use my outer half off of my commander.

Thinking of just swapping the whole primary using my weights, and wandering will this work?
 

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Your weights and spring
That's all and your good
There are two used ones on the mav forum


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I have the Dalton low engagement spring will it work?
 

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Yes


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Will I have to remove the fin on the end of the turbo primary? Where do I get the 12 to 14 step washer?

Thx
 

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Could I replace the cover?
 

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I put the cover on mine that has the extra hose on . One on the secondary .
And on my mav I put the 16 turbo cover on


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The turbo mav parts are the strongest lockup you can get and never have to worry about timing it wrong and destroying the clutch . Square pin and a matching square hole is easy to figure out .

If I can't sell my mander i will give it this upgrade for peace of mind .
My mander has the lockup mod to a mav clutch so it is as strong as I can get without the better parts .



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Cover

I put the cover on mine that has the extra hose on . One on the secondary .
And on my mav I put the 16 turbo cover on


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Do you have the part # of the cover so I could keep the fins on?
 

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BRP online parts catalog
If you don't want to look it up I can


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I don't think having the fan on helps with more air flow unless you use the 16 turbo cover that uses two hoses to the cover .
My secondary up grade came with that 16 cover but the nipple at the primary has a rubber cap clamped on . So to make the fan functional, I need to run one more hose or tee it into the hose for the secondary. That way both clutches can pull in fresh air . Without adding a hose at the primary it's just spinning around but can't blow any because the fan would draw it's air from the center


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Pic is not showing up on my phone


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This is the new turbo cover


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