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Clutch tuning for the Trailrider / Hunter

571 Views 4 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  NLCommander
Hi all,
I have a 2012 CanAm Commander 1000 XT, (21000 kms - one owner) all original and stock clutching with a lot of accessories and new”er” 28” tires. I am purchasing the Dalton Clutch Kit to try to “fix” the performance issues from adding the new 28”tires. I know the additional weight of the accessories add to my performance loss, but also know the tires are the biggest culprit.
I am not a racer or drive in deep mud… I am a casual rider and hunter who is looking for an Tame and QUIET ride. Since adding my new 28” tires, I have found that my clutching and running rpm is much higher…. It’s running about 4800 - 5200 at 25- 30 kph. It’s like she’s in low gear all the time.
im hoping that the Dalton clutch kit with the low rpm engagement spring with heavier fly weights will help…. but what I’m really looking for is low rpm engagement, and the lowest rpm running speed possible without fear of belt slippage and stalling. I want to take more advantage of the 1000 power plant low end torque rather than the higher rpm peak HP. I spend 90% of my time driving 25-30 km per hour on an old rail bed and woods trails… the high HP “PEP” is not needed in my daily running….

Does anyone in this Forum have the same outlook as me? Most online clutch tuning is aimed at peak HP … I’m looking for more of a subdued and practical tuning… Got any suggestions???

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If you are wanting more low end performance and power you will need to replace the primary. No way to get more low end out of stock primary. Aftermarket clutches use a smaller one way bearing giving them a lower gear ratio when taking off from a dead stop. The clutch kit tunes your wide open throttle to the peak hp range which is 6900 to 7200. Low engagement spring drops the full engagement point at take off allow primary to grab belt tighter quicker but don’t change the gear ratio.

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Thanks Acefire,
but I’m not looking to change the low end gear ratio…. I use the Low Gear for any intricate and slow crawling and that ratio seems fine… The low engagement spring will help with lowering the initial “grab” rpm on the belt… again something I’m looking for…😎
My concern is with the “running” rpm. I have found that with the addition of some heavier accessories and cargo, coupled with my recent addition of the 28” “harder to roll” tires, my normal running rpm has increased about 700-900 (guessing) rpm. It’s like the bike is in too low a gear and is racing to try to keep 30 kph.
im thinking that with the additional weight and tires, the bike needs to “gear down lower” to keep the bike rolling resulting in a higher rpm to keep the same speed.
Will the additional fly weights in the primary counteract this or is this more of a Secondary clutching issue? It’s like the secondary is not allowing the bike to “gear up” to allow the rpm’s to come back down.
I am very willing to sacrifice the quickness and power (Can am has lots to spare) for a more subdued and smooth ride. I am looking to lower the operating rpm and trying not to kill the torque.
Any advice is appreciated 😎
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It’s a cvt it. They all run around 5200 to 5500 at 35 mph the more weight or taller tires you go with the harder the cvt has to work . Not much you can do about cruise speed rpm. But just going to 28” rubber you shouldn’t have seen that much of a difference anywhere in the throttle range . X3 runs 5000 ish at 35 mph cruise with 29” tires went to 32” and cruise rpm didn’t change . It just accelerates slower from dead stop to 35 mph . But this is a 150 hp motor not a on best day 85hp.

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35 kilometres per hour (kph)… not 35 miles per hour (mph) There’s a big difference… It’s only about half the speed😢
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