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Just to make sure you're getting the correct measurements, check the pic I've attached to confirm you are measuring from the right points on the axles.
Thanks and I should have remembered how to measure. In the early days of auto cv's I rebuilt a few. sadly when I moved a little while ago I abandoned the tools.
 

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I found those shaft extenders. Seems like there is a trade off of using them. They might keep axle from popping out. But they would also increase angles slightly. End up looking for the sweet spot. Appreciate that info.
 

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I caught up with the guy I bought from. Told me a friend did the lift and son-in-law looked and relayed the rear arms are also SATV. So it appears the entire lift is from them. He told me he replaced a couple of shafts using the cheapest aftermarket he could find that replaced the OE. NO INTENDED LENGTH INCREASE! Little wonder there is a problem. Son-in-law also relayed that boots on LF, RR were bad. Told me he could not get good look at LF. Seems pretty certain shaft length is major issue. LoL
 

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Length only becomes the issue if they are to short. Then they will pop out. Lift is what increases the angle . If lift is to much it will over extend the axles and pull out of the diff. The natural rubber boots produce a lot of heat . Heat kills them . If the angle of the boot cause to ridges in the boot to touch while rolling that alone will cause heat and premature failure of the boot . Oem boots are plastic but don't fit any aftermarket axles I have found due to the cup sizes . Oem boots on same machine will out last natural rubber 3 to 1.

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Length only becomes the issue if they are to short. Then they will pop out. Lift is what increases the angle . If lift is to much it will over extend the axles and pull out of the diff. The natural rubber boots produce a lot of heat . Heat kills them . If the angle of the boot cause to ridges in the boot to touch while rolling that alone will cause heat and premature failure of the boot . Oem boots are plastic but don't fit any aftermarket axles I have found due to the cup sizes . Oem boots on same machine will out last natural rubber 3 to 1.

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I put 4” portals, 2.5” suspension lift, and super atv extended trailing arms on my 2020 commander. Had lots of issues with the rear axles. Put some gorilla’s on it that are 1” longer than stock. Only on the rear, stock length is fine on the front. Seems to have solved the problem.
 

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Mine measures 660mm fully extended from cup to cup
Which axle is that measurement from? Position and brand, so that I get a clearer picture. If 8-balls told me correctly, shopping for LR, their axle is significantly longer. Collapsed I believe she said, 688 +/- 3 MM. That would be slightly more than an inch difference.
 

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Update as to what axles I have on machine. Help cross referencing or learning what they are will be appreciated.
RR 7-14-R-0-BT 171102
LR 881717087
RF 705401654-BR855 XL 140515A
LF 705401653-BR854 XL 140428B

Next time I am at machine I will have to double check that LR shaft as the number seems strange like there might be another number I missed if I rotate it. It does not seem to cross any way I have tried.
I did get a couple of crosses but I might have done it wrong, so I am waiting for your input. Hoping someone with much more part experience might recognize and any is better than my near zero. If I can learn what they are and then their specs it will help with determining what I can replace with.
Thanks
 

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Which axle is that measurement from? Position and brand, so that I get a clearer picture. If 8-balls told me correctly, shopping for LR, their axle is significantly longer. Collapsed I believe she said, 688 +/- 3 MM. That would be slightly more than an inch difference.
Pretty sure my rear axles are the same length. I had used rhino 2.0 axles in stock length. I pulled the wheels and shocks off, jacked the trailing arms up until they are level with the diff. That would be the shortest length. The way I understand it, you don’t want them to long because when the suspension is depressed the axles will bang together inside the diff and cause damage. When I jacked the trailing arms up, I measured the length of play and added that to the stock length. So mine are 1” over stock and seem to be working well. I took a few jumps last time we were out and no issues. I also added limit straps on the rear. I measured those by jacking it up and measuring the natural travel. I think the bounce back or recoil from dressing the suspension like from a jump was part of the issue as well. Hope that helps. Also, I am not a mechanic, I just had a lot of trouble and couldn’t get a correct answer so that is what I did.
 

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Update as to what axles I have on machine. Help cross referencing or learning what they are will be appreciated.
RR 7-14-R-0-BT 171102
LR 881717087
RF 705401654-BR855 XL 140515A
LF 705401653-BR854 XL 140428B
That first one, the RR axle is a standard Rhino rear.
 

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Pretty sure my rear axles are the same length. I had used rhino 2.0 axles in stock length. I pulled the wheels and shocks off, jacked the trailing arms up until they are level with the diff. That would be the shortest length. The way I understand it, you don’t want them to long because when the suspension is depressed the axles will bang together inside the diff and cause damage. When I jacked the trailing arms up, I measured the length of play and added that to the stock length. So mine are 1” over stock and seem to be working well. I took a few jumps last time we were out and no issues. I also added limit straps on the rear. I measured those by jacking it up and measuring the natural travel. I think the bounce back or recoil from dressing the suspension like from a jump was part of the issue as well. Hope that helps. Also, I am not a mechanic, I just had a lot of trouble and couldn’t get a correct answer so that is what I did.
Hope that works out. Reasonable effort for lack of other data. Technically you would need to figure where the shock bottoms which may be at a different level especially if lifted. Thanks for the input. I suspect that I would not be near the point of hub center level to diff output because of lift as written earlier. Certainly is giving better idea of approach. Still trying to figure out how to learn the lengths of various market shafts. That does not seem to be published
 

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That first one, the RR axle is a standard Rhino rear.
That is what I derived and hoping you arrived at same output with different method. Like a double check.
Did you notice the letters BR in two of the numbers? I don't know if that is OEM practice or some other manufacturer way of designating what the build is for. Without further knowledge it only means for Can Am. The XL is curious because it could mean a longer shaft. At one place the LF number seemed to cross to Rhino 2.0 , possibly +6".
The one with just 9 numbers I could come up with nothing.
 

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That is what I derived and hoping you arrived at same output with different method. Like a double check.
Did you notice the letters BR in two of the numbers? I don't know if that is OEM practice or some other manufacturer way of designating what the build is for. Without further knowledge it only means for Can Am. The XL is curious because it could mean a longer shaft. At one place the LF number seemed to cross to Rhino 2.0 , possibly +6".
The one with just 9 numbers I could come up with nothing.
Those are can am factory number.


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That is what I derived and hoping you arrived at same output with different method. Like a double check.
Did you notice the letters BR in two of the numbers? I don't know if that is OEM practice or some other manufacturer way of designating what the build is for. Without further knowledge it only means for Can Am. The XL is curious because it could mean a longer shaft. At one place the LF number seemed to cross to Rhino 2.0 , possibly +6".
The one with just 9 numbers I could come up with nothing.
They are all stock length.
 

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They are all stock length.
Yes it seems so though I was never able to identify RL, 881717087. And at least three being standard length bothered me. My assumption of six inch SuperATV lift was wrong. Knowing that it appeared to have a 2.5 inch lift as well it seems the lesser lift could not be simultaneously installed. So I looked the machine over again. Can anyone tell me different from the earlier red machine pictures what I conclude. That is SuperATV Extended rear trailing arms, High Clearance 1.5” Forward Offset A-Arms, and 2.5" lift kit.
I can find nothing at their website concerning the axle length that should be used with these parts unlike the kitted 6" lift that comes with +6 Rhino axles.
 

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Yes it seems so though I was never able to identify RL, 881717087. And at least three being standard length bothered me. My assumption of six inch SuperATV lift was wrong. Knowing that it appeared to have a 2.5 inch lift as well it seems the lesser lift could not be simultaneously installed. So I looked the machine over again. Can anyone tell me different from the earlier red machine pictures what I conclude. That is SuperATV Extended rear trailing arms, High Clearance 1.5” Forward Offset A-Arms, and 2.5" lift kit.
I can find nothing at their website concerning the axle length that should be used with these parts unlike the kitted 6" lift that comes with +6 Rhino axles.
That combo still requires stock length axles, but you definitely need good aftermarket axles like our Rhino 2.0's for the rear...at least. They need that extra plunge length that the 2.0's have. OEM won't extend as far and be too short, plus...the OEM's have smaller CV's and won't like that angle at full drop.
 

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That combo still requires stock length axles, but you definitely need good aftermarket axles like our Rhino 2.0's for the rear...at least. They need that extra plunge length that the 2.0's have. OEM won't extend as far and be too short, plus...the OEM's have smaller CV's and won't like that angle at full drop.
I had ordered a double plunging from Ma______.. Never heard from them for days. Tried calling. no phone support. Yikes. Checked BBB. Seems they have a habit. Jumped through hoops to cancel then they let me know it was backordered with no expected arrival date. Cancelled again. Hoping the 8 balls works which will be here next week.. Shipping is mindlessly slow and tracking is not much better. Most trucks will not pass CA emmissions and new laws make it impossible to pay off new truck before it is outdated by their laws. Find your point of origin if possible.
 
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