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I have a 2013 can am commander XT w/ a 2.5 in lift

It looks as though the bushings in all 4 A-arms are worn and are in need of replacement As evidenced by significant play in the both front tires unrelated to bad bearings and ball joints are in good repair. I want to replace all of these however because I bought it used.


I have considered replacing them myself with reluctance due to limited mechanical knowledge, experience, or time.The nearest dealership is ~ 60 miles away.

After much research on youtube and google I was able to make a definitive diagnosis. I understand how to change ball joints and wheel bearings there is a lot of good videos on this, but I am struggling to find a Video on replacing the A-arms & bushings.

As I said earlier my mechanical background is limited, but from what i can tell it seems as though replacing the A-arms and bushings entirely is a bit more involved? Any recommendations, advice, or video recommendations?
 

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A-arm bushings are very easy to change. Just a long punch to drive out the old bushings .
Super Daves makes a bushing and pin kit for the commander . That’s what most folks on here use


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If you can do the ball joints/wheel bearings the the A-arm bushings should be easy. The hardest part is the too long bolts and that is just a pain to get them in place. I used Garage Products bushings and couldn't be happier. I also did shock bushings too.

Steve

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The worst part about doing the a arm bushings is you will need to get the really long upper bolt out. Some have cut it off and pushed the new one back through from the other side I usually just end up unbolting the radiator and sliding them out. I had super Dave’s bushings but the uppers wore out I now have garage products bushings


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Discussion Starter #7
  1. The worst part about doing the a arm bushings is you will need to get the really long upper bolt out. Some have cut it off and pushed the new one back through from the other side I usually just end up unbolting the radiator and sliding them out. I had super Dave’s bushings but the uppers wore out I now have garage products bushings


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    Yes! Thank you for your reply!
  2. The lower A-arm looks rather basic.

  3. It is the bilateral upper arms that looked difficult with the long bolt requiring more like radiator removal. How difficult is that?
 

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As to the upper arms, I know a lot of folks cut the bolts head off (and get new bolts) or pull the radiator out so they can reinstall the bolts through the floor plugs so the next change is easier.

BUT, if you don’t want to go to all of that trouble, and I didn’t, then you can just take the top 2 bolts out of the radiator. This will allow the connected radiator to be moved forward a couple inches. Then you can just take the nut off and push the bolt toward the radiator. This will free the threaded end of the bolt from the bracket. Then tilt the arm down and slide it off of the bolt.

I cleaned the bolt up hanging there and put some antiseize on its shaft so it wouldn’t rust to the new steel part of the new bushings.

You can also wiggle and pry on the radiator enough to slide the bolt out if you want but not necessary.
 

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I did the upper and lower front bushings on my 13 last year. Ran into an issue with one of the upper bolts that seized onto the bushing and could not push it out. I had to use a grinder with a thin wheel to get between the a arm and where it bolts into the frame to cut the bolt.
 

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I would add that I didn't remove or move the radiator. Stock, they insert the bolt from the front before the radiator is installed. If you look on the firewall there are 2 plastic plugs just above the floorboard. These line up so you can slide the bolt in from the passenger compt. If you have power steering you may have to drill a hole the the bracket for the power steering on the drivers side. The passenger side is easy. I cut the head off the bolts with an angle grinder and removed them. I inserted the new bolts through the firewall holes. I didn't want to unbolt and remove or move the radiator. YMMV.

Steve
 

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I would add that I didn't remove or move the radiator. Stock, they insert the bolt from the front before the radiator is installed. If you look on the firewall there are 2 plastic plugs just above the floorboard. These line up so you can slide the bolt in from the passenger compt. If you have power steering you may have to drill a hole the the bracket for the power steering on the drivers side. The passenger side is easy. I cut the head off the bolts with an angle grinder and removed them. I inserted the new bolts through the firewall holes. I didn't want to unbolt and remove or move the radiator. YMMV.

Steve
I believe you are right about the power steering bracket being in the way on the drivers side. That’s probably part of the reason I just unbolt there radiator and be done with it instead of messing around.


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Or you can cut or drill a hole in the mount .
Seems unsafe you trying to put me and the wife in a early grave?? I thought you were here friend lol


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Lol cut mine out in 2012 . It’s came in handy many times.
Oh yes I bet because you put so many miles on it!!


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I put three sets in the first 1200 miles and two sets of super Daves bushings . Sense August of 2012 mine has sat a total of 4 yrs but still has 4600. How many miles you have on yours now?
 

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Not my fault your machine sits neglected in the back of your garage


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