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Discussion Starter #1
So, I finally tore into the old gearbox. I'm definitely not more than an r&r home mechanic, but I see no visual damage (ground gears, broken parts, or metal chunks). Now I'm confused as to what may have gone wrong. Before I put the new one in it would grind horribly in high or low but would move under minimal throttle, better when the oil was thick and cold. This was after a pretty good impact and being really stuck. Anyhow, if anybody needs parts, or has an idea of what I should look for, let me know. I've already got the new one in, so........
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Is it possible that a linkage problem, alone, could have caused this? Fluid was clean, no metal, no visual damage (I may not know exactly what to look for). At least, if I wasted my money on the new gearbox, it's a lower geared one.
 

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If cable was stretched out I can cause it to pop out of gear. But grinding going in is typically oneway bearing.
 

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I remember a thread on here around the time I replaced mine that had a similar problem. He was able to get the parts needed but I can’t remember what all parts were bad. Ironically he was in Canada and had to get the parts from the US as they weren’t available in Canada.

Also there is a thread within the last month or so with an internal shifting problem. In addition to the parts, he had a problem with where the parts mounted inside the case - worn badly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If cable was stretched out I can cause it to pop out of gear. But grinding going in is typically oneway bearing.
One way bearing came from UATV Tech, only had a couple hundred miles on it, seemed good when I removed clutches, and works with the new gearbox. I remember now, that I tried shifting with the cable disconnected and it did the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If cable was stretched out I can cause it to pop out of gear. But grinding going in is typically oneway bearing.
Not just grinding going in. It was grinding under acceleration when already in, especially if I got on it to actually try to move.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'll never know now. The new gearbox is in, shifts fine, engages great, and runs smooth. I might change that one way bearing now just because.
 

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Threads which might be of interest to you. The last one was where one of the mounts in the case was wallowed out. There may be more by both of those posters seem to make multiple threads on one subject.



 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks guys. It really bothers me when I can't figure something out, but I've never messed with internals much.
 

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The gearbox in my 2012 1000 made a horrible grinding noise and stopped moving last summer in the Hatfield McCoy trails. I was at the bottom of a steep hill, so i put it into L (Low). 20 feet up the hill, it made a horrible grinding noise, revved way up, and stopped moving. I stepped on the brake, and put it into H (High). Made it up the hill, and rode another 20 miles that day, loaded it on the trailer, and hauled it back to Western NY. Ordered and installed a new gearbox ($2000). Took it for a local ride, put it in Low, started up a hill, and heard a horrible grinding noise. Come to find out, the shifter cable, at the gearbox end, has a weird tube in a tube to keep the cable from bending and not going into Low gear. Ordered a new cable, everything works fine. I think I have a good gearbox that I took out, when the problem was the shifter cable!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I tested mine with the cable removed, shifting it at the gearbox with a wrench. It did the same thing with the hand shifter and cable as well as shifting it manually at the gearbox. I put the new gearbox in, cleaned clutches and one way bearing, and installed and carefully adjusted a new cable.
 
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