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Discussion Starter #1
I"ve recently installed a new CVtech trailbloc clutch on my 2012 1000XT. After installing on initial test run clutch engages and accelerates fine, no belt slipping but when you let off the throttle quickly (at any speed) the engine braking hits so hard it almost throws you thru the windshield. It decelerates hard enough that it will drag the rear tires on pavement! Anybody have any thoughts on what my problem might be? The secondary was untouched, so I wouldn't think that would have anything to do with it. It was running fine before swap with OEM clutch. Just replaced because stocker was getting sloppy and very jittery at slower speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
specs are as followed:
one way bearing
20G weights
300/1200 spring
Commander has 28" tires
 

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The engine braking is more in the back shifting of the secondary . The engine breaking in the primary is low rpm. So if it’s braking that hard at high speed it’s a combination of the primary and secondary . I took the engine breaking out of my primary on my quad so I can coast down him . But I have to stop to get clutch to kick out. Inly way I can coast down hill at speed to time install a roller secondary with no engine breaking . Sound like yours is just working extremely well. Mine would do that when I was racing . So I had to learn not to let off the throttle to fast . And in other situation it worked the engine breaking in my favor to start the rear drift in the curves . Other than putting a roller secondary in I got nothing . If Troy comes across this thread he may have a idea on what to do .
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Don’t remember off top of my head. Have it tore down right now to visually inspect everything. I’ll check it out this weekend when I have time.


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Talked to Troy he said the cvtech has a abnormally hard engine brake but shouldn’t be enough to lock up the wheels on asphalt at high speed .
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Going 50ish down road and completely back off throttle you can hear the tires dragging. It will bring you to a complete stop in 100-150 feet with zero wheel brake help


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He said 1017 soft primary spring then tune everything to that spring . That will light up the engine braking .
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the info. I will order one tomorrow. CVtech website recommends my exact setup for commander with 1-2” larger tires. Which is a heavier spring and weights than there recommendation for stock. 16/14 ounce (lighter) weights sounds more in line with what I’ve done in the past on some Arctic cat wildcat clutching with really good results


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Pick a soft spring and tune to that and you won’t have problems anymore.


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Your weights should be fine with your setup. The blocks weigh 10 grams. A 1017 spring will lower your take off rpm and will increase your cruising rpm's. I can't believe that the clutch is locking up that hard to slide the tires without destroying something. I have 2 cvtech clutches an older model rebuilt by the factory and a brand new model. I have had no problems with the new clutch only thing wrong with old one was clattering noise which was fixed. Did you buy your clutch from cvtech out of Wisconsin???
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It hasn't been driven much since CVTech was put in for fear of tearing something up. It's nothing short of a chore to drive it the way it is. It wasn't bought direct from CVtech. The specs I listed above are supposed to be what's in it. Have not taken it apart yet to verify, but the box it came in had same info. That is also what CVTech site says should be used for a commander with 1-2" larger tires. I'll order the 1017 spring and try that. don't think it could make it any less drivable! What rpm should I be shooting for while tuning? While everything is tore down any recommended mods for for secondary? After swapping out to Mav diff realized how noisy the secondary was. Would like to switch to a torsion spring to eliminate "clunking" sound. My secondary has both the holes needed, but doesn't have torsion spring. What spring do I need to get?
 

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The torsional spring doesn’t help . I took mine out and put 12 spring in and couldn’t tell any difference.
 

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The new spring is not gonna solve your problem. Take your primary and secondary apart and make sure everything is good, double check the one way bearing that it is seated properly and spinning the right direction. Ace is right on the torsion spring doesn't help anything for the clunking and jerking. I run a 120-1200 spring in my clutch with the 800 engine and it engages nice and smooth.
 

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Your one way bearing should spin freely clockwise direction and lock spinning counterclock wise.
 
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