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Discussion Starter #81
I agree with both of you. No, I didn't touch the one-way bearings. However, the primary clutch sheath face is not in good shape. I cleaned it up as good as I could, but there are bumps at the bottom, kinda like the clutch got wet prior to me. I can't afford to replace it at the moment, but I will. Maybe I'll get a new clutch in my Christmas stocking? That's the second time I started it, so maybe the belt needs to wear in a bit. I haven't run it long, as soon as the exhaust gets hot it starts smoking from the new wrap in the shop. I'll get it outside today and let that burn off. Maybe the belt will set in and stop turning the secondary. If not, I'll take it back off and look at it. I know the bearing was working properly. How do you service it?
 

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Discussion Starter #82
I took the primary and secondary off and cleaned them as best as I could. The center roller on the primary was stuck in. But, After cleaning and playing with it, I finally got it to run in and out. I did attempt to pull that center roller off, but to no avail. It is supposed to come off to get to the two little springs inside right? I went ahead and put it back together, but the secondary is still spinning in park.. It stops if you put it in gear, but, its making a chunk sound as it stops. Can't be good. Any suggestions?
 

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Pull the primary apart and change the 1 way, or put on a new primary clutch, a cvtech is a cheap decent replacement if ya decide to change the clutch. Stm for the win though if ya gonna go all out.
 

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Not good if its turning and putting into gear, may last forever may break something sooner than later, rev you truck up and then drop it into gear.... same concept..
 

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I took the primary and secondary off and cleaned them as best as I could. The center roller on the primary was stuck in. But, After cleaning and playing with it, I finally got it to run in and out. I did attempt to pull that center roller off, but to no avail. It is supposed to come off to get to the two little springs inside right? I went ahead and put it back together, but the secondary is still spinning in park.. It stops if you put it in gear, but, its making a chunk sound as it stops. Can't be good. Any suggestions?
mine is smooth as butter on level ground shifting, and quiet. If you riding and get it in a lil bind, or a clunk after you shifted and hit the gas is normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Took it for a quick spin. It generally did what its supposed to. But, I have a bigger problem. Now the input shaft seal is leaking. Also one bolt hole which threads into the gearbox is stripped out.
 

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Definitely should have replaced all the seals before installing it. As for the bolt hole didnt seem to be any issues with it when I removed the clutch backing, but that was removing not installing, but thats a simple fix, measure the hole depth, use a lil longer bolt if possible, or retap hole to next size metric or standard bolt thats the next closest size . Just had a guy mess up the threads in his crank trying to pull his primary with no puller, I drilled hole out one size bigger, put new bolt in, with thread locker, cut it off flush and Redrilled proper sized and tapped it. Worked like a dream.
 

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Not sure what it came off of but thought you said maverick. If I’m not mistaken there are two different sized distance rings available depending I think whether it had the turbo roller secondary or not. Make sure the distance ring is same size as from your old box. If not, put the one on from the old box.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Yes, I understand that it came off a Maverick. If this one is a bit longer, that would make sense as to why the belt is grabbing in park. I will have to look around and see if I can find the other ring that came off the original gearbox....Not sure I know where it went... The distance ring that is on there (pretty sure it came with this Maverick gearbox) has a flat side, and has a lip on the other side. It can go on the shaft either way. Which way is the little lip supposed to be oriented? With the lip pointing outside of the case, or with the lip towards the inside of the gearbox case? (Pictured is the one that I am supposed to be using). I guess I need to order a new oil ring. Oh, looking at the parts diagram, I see there is supposed to be a o-ring that the lip of the distance ring sits in? That would stop the oil from seeping out.
 

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The lip goes towards the little o-ring. When you install a new secondary seal, put gear oil on the lips of the seal and o-ring, at a minimum. The last time I did it, I also gooped them up good with super lube (they actually have super lube at harbor freight, believe it or not).
 

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It appears from your picture that you don't have a seal in there at all.
Didn't you go over my gearbox post? I had the same issue.
Had to order a new seal. I also ordered a new small o-ring for it.

Below is a close up of your pic:
66394

I do not see a seal. And your sleeve is backwards.
The indent to the O-Ring needs to go towards the gearbox itself.

Below is a pic of mine WITHOUT the seal. You can even see the ball bearings.
66395


Below is a pic of mine WITH the seal.
66396
 

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Discussion Starter #94
The seal is there but the oring is not. I'll take the cover off and take another picture as soon as I can figure out something to break the blue locktighted bolt loose on the primary....lol..... attached is the two distance rings I have. Both appear to be exactly the same. I'll go ahead and get the new oil seal and oring ordered. Do I have to remove the gearbox half to install that seal? If so, I can do that without removing the gearbox right?
 

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You don’t need to pull the gearbox to change the seal. Be careful installing the seal. Remember what I said about lubing it.
I made a little gadget out of a pvc fitting and a bolt and washers to evenly press it in. I’ll see if I can find pic. But others just drill a hole in a 2x4 or something.

Heat to loosen the locktite. I see no reason to use locktite on the primary. Secondary is a different story. There, with really clean threads I use 1 small drop of red.

Here the pic

66399
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Awesome slow. I really didn't want to pull that gearbox apart. That seal part#420950089 was a nightmare to find. I did finally find it tho. Adept powersports had it in stock. No one except amazon had it. Amazon said a month to send it. Nope...Hopefully this Adept doesn't take a month. I also ordered a new one-way bearing kit for the primary clutch, a o-ring for the distance ring, a clutch cover gasket, and a new air filter from can am parts guy. I really think just the o-ring will stop the gearbox from leaking, but I donno. Not sure if replacing the one-way bearing will fix my constant belt turning the secondary thing..... We shall see. I'll give it a shot.

During my one run around the house last night I did hear a loud bang. Not sure what it was and can't see anything that is out of place. I am hoping it was just something settling in. New rear axles seem to be twice as beefy as the stock ones that were on there.
 

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I used the sealed one ways from uatv-tech.com. You can get the same size at other places but they won't hold up as long. Ed has french produced skf bearings that I think Troy sourced, he went through a bunch before he found some that would hold up long term.
 

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If you run into an issue, I had the seal size around here somewhere for the countershaft. I'm not sure which brand can am uses but i believe its viton rubber because its brownish instead of black.
 
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