Can-Am Commander Forum banner

41 - 60 of 71 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
I hear "Wobble Sockets" or "Swivel Sockets" is a good tool to use for when you need to free up the Front Diff because of the tight space. A regular Universal Joint along with a socket will not work as the combined length will not fit in the tight area. A Wobble Socket is shorter and will fit in the small area.

66254


Or you can make an extended "Crows Foot" tool like I did.

66255
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
Everything is Metric.
You'll need: 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 14mm Lug Nuts, 15mm Front/Rear Diffs, 17mm Secondary, and 19mm Primary.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
66256


Oh boy. Reading this just made a light go off in my head. Right after I got the machine, brought it home, changed the motor oil and filter. Next day took it for a 10 mile run. When I got home that night, I remember seeing oil on the floor. At the time, I thought that maybe I had overfilled the oil and that it was just overfilled. I checked the oil level and seemed normal. I walked away from it thinking that was the issue. Now that I think back on it, and since the gearbox didn't have more than a drop of oil in it, I just realized, that was gear oil. Which means I ran the hell out of that gearbox with no oil for two solid days. I guess I don't understand. What would cause a seal to blow out in the first place? And, with no oil, I am sure everything in that gearbox is going to be trashed, right?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
First is first Mason. Pull that gearbox and crack it open. Find out the issue.
I recommend removing the Clutch Side cover first.
You'll be able to see pretty much everything once that is removed.

Was there a lot of metal fragments on your magnetic drain plug?

66257
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
That sucks that no oil came out. Especially on a machine ya just picked up.
I feel your pain.
There is light at the end of the tunnel tho.
Lots of helpful guys on here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
Finally got the tools I needed, so back to it.

Last night I worked on getting that primary clutch off with the puller I got from Amazon. With just the puller, it would not come off. In fact, it actually bent the end of the puller. I ended up using the grease trick, by packing the hole with grease and running the tool back in. BAM! It popped right off! Moved on, following slowindown's post of gearbox removal. I found that the two lower bolt ends of the transaxle bolts had severely decayed and was a nightmare to get the nuts off. I was going to cut them off and replace, but my son was bound and determined to get them off. After lots of blood and some sweat, we finally got them off without having to cut them. I guess these bolts are always packed with mud or something....

So, moving the transaxle back, it allowed the driveshaft to slide back out of the gearbox. I never removed any bolt or anything from the driveshaft to the gearbox. Is there supposed to be a bolt or something in there? I know there is a bolt in the driveshaft (pinion) to the transaxle, but nothing on the other end. Is that right? Also, even though the driveshaft bolt is removed, it still appears to be stuck in the transaxle. Slowindown mentioned that his driveshaft was stuck in the gearbox. Also, can you get the transaxle out without having to remove the muffler? (oh side note - transaxle seems to be moving the way it should). Seems like I might as well take every single thing on this machine off. This is crazy!!

Anyway, moving on to the front of the machine today to work on getting the front end loose. Hopefully, with a little luck and Band-Aids, I can get this damn thing out today.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,494 Posts
I'm a little confused by your description. I think you're calling the rear differential the transaxle. Is that right? In any event, there should have been a bolt in the center of the yoke holding the driveshaft (propshaft) to the rear diff and one in the yoke on the other end holding it to the gearbox output shaft. After I got the bolts out, my driveshaft was stuck on the gearbox output shaft. I used pbblaster, tapping and patience to get it off.

I didn't remove the diff from the machine, just the rear driveshaft. I did have the muffler off though as I wirebrushed all the baked on dirt off of the pipes while I was at it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #52
Yes, you are right. Differential. Sorry. As I mentioned at the beginning, I am not a mechanic!! So, you are saying that there should be bolts in either side of the yokes of the driveshaft then. Cause there was only one (in the differential side). Maybe I'll just leave the differential where it is and not try to remove the driveshaft from it. Guess there's no sense to do that, as long as I can get it back in the gearbox when putting it back together.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,494 Posts
Yeah. 2 bolts - one in each end. The gearbox one must’ve vibrated out. I’m not a mechanic either, far from it. I was just trying to make sure I understood right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
So, the front differential.....do I need to remove the front axles from the differential in order to move it enough to slide the engine forward? I've got the engine loose, and it'll move up and down, but not forward of course. Also, I cannot seem to budge the bolt from the front driveshaft (yoke) into the differential. But then again, I don't really see a reason to try and remove it....thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,494 Posts
I did not remove the axles. I removed the bolt from the yoke at the front diff and then slid the driveshaft out of the front diff. I did not remove the driveshaft from the front of the engine.

However, I am pretty sure that I have read where someone had enough space to remove the gearbox without unhooking the front drive shaft at all - but not 100% sure about that.

Once you unbolt the front diff., if you havent already, you should see how much wiggle room you have, which aint ever going to be much.
 
41 - 60 of 71 Posts
Top