Few notes on the RT Pro 2" lift install on my 2019 XT800
For those considering the RT Pro 2" lift for their machine, just figured I'd toss a post up of my experience with installing mine on my 2019 XT800R. This is not a post to bash the lift or the company as I found this kit was extremely well built, just not easily installed. I'm more than willing to sacrifice ease of install for a kit that's built better than the rest. The manufacturer specifies the kit fits "all commanders" but only lists up to 2017 on their website, so maybe something has changed on 18-up and that's the reason for some or all of my issues. I'll also preface this by saying I've been a heavy equipment/diesel mechanic for 20 years and have basically every tool imaginable at my disposal, so my issues had nothing to do with skill level or proper tooling.
So the RT website says 1.5 hours for the install. I spent 4.5 getting mine done and that was without reassembling the cab plastics because I've still got to do the oil change. I started with the front end just like instructions say. I pulled my shocks out and immediately found that the lift brackets on each side that need to be slid up into the frame channel hit a factory fender brace bracket that's welded to the frame and prevent the bolt holes from lining up. So I had to grind about 1/4" off the factory brackets on each side to allow the lift brackets to slide far enough up. Once the brackets were in place I went to drill the one hole per side that secures the bottom of the brackets to the cross support. On the passengers side, that hole is right smack in the middle of where the factory winch relay is mounted by Can Am on the inner side of the frame. So after some test fitting and measuring and thinking, I had to remove the bracket from the relay, open up the top hole, reattach it to the relay and use the cross brace bolt to hold the top of the relay. Then I had to drill a new hole in my frame lower than the factory hole to reinstall the bottom small bolt and secure the bottom of the relay. Installed the cross brace loosely to test fit and it was way too tight for my liking on the main headlight/fan/brake light harness, almost pinching it between the cross brace and frame. May have been ok but I didn't want to take any chances, so I had to disconnect the left headlights, brake light switch and fan, remove the retainers from the headlight plugs due to their being too big to fit through the cross brace hole, and pass it through one of the holes in the cross brace, then connect and re-secure it. I also had to modify the brake master cylinder guard to fit back into and tight to the frame channel for the bolts once the lift bracket is also inside the lift channel. Not a big deal, that was just plastic. Got the front all done and tight, noted the upper radiator hose on the drivers side was now sitting directly on top of and rubbing on the lift kit bracket. So, found some hydraulic hose armor and wrapped it, zip tied it up off the bracket, done with the front.
Now for the rear. Got the shocks dropped out of the way, installed the new brackets and immediately noticed the bottom of the brackets where the U-strap will secure through them is significantly skinnier than the square frame tube and the U-strap opening that will slide around the brackets. I ended up using 2 pretty thick washers per side on both sides of both brackets (8 non-supplied washers in total) in order to make sure that when I was drawing that bolt tight, it was drawing down onto a solid metal assembly, not just springing the ends of the U-straps. Also of note, the drivers side U-strap sits directly over the factory hole in the frame that the transmission and rear axle breathers are teed and grommet'd into. So I had to adjust the slack in the breather lines and drill a new hole in the frame down tube to reinsert the breather grommet into. Got all that done, tightened the bolts, shocks on, good to go. When I reinstalled the plastics behind the seat that had to be removed to install the U-straps, I found that unless the plastics were cut out or heated and reworked around the U-straps that the plastics had absolutely no chance of sitting back in their factory position. I opted for the heat and rework since I didn't want to cut away that plastic. A butane torch and a small dead blow was enough to eventually get the plastics massaged back into place where I could reinstall the factory fasteners.
Now again, this kit IS the most well built kit on the market from what I could tell and it is engineered very well in that respect. The install time, however, was grossly understated. Now weather that's because some things have changed slightly on these machines since this kit was engineered or what, I don't know. Just wanted to share my experience for those who like me were expecting this install to be a 1.5-2 hour job like it's advertised. To do it right, it is not even close.