2014 Maverick belt running hot - Can-Am Commander Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 06-26-2018, 12:59 AM Thread Starter
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2014 Maverick belt running hot

I figure the Maverick is so close to the same thing as the Commander that you guys should have some good input for me.

I have had my new to me 2014 Maverich XRS out on several runs over the past couple months. This rig has about 6000 miles on it. It was street registered in Arizona, but it did see some mud running. I recently installed a Razorback belt temp gauge. I noticed that all thought the BRP belt it came with was in great shape, it was measuring at the limit of the acceptable belt width at the cord (1.80”). So I decided to replace it with another BRP belt. There was no significant debris or built up of gunk on the sheaves so I just put it on. I cycled it twice just driving it around the neighborhood. Temp was running at about 180F-190F cruising the street at 20-30 MPH. If I gave it a couple moderate accelerations from a stop the temp would go up to about 200F. After each warm up I took it home, ran the RPM’s up to about 2500 to get the belt to cool to about 160F and then shut it down for the night. I figured this was normal during break-in.

I took it out to Hungry Valley for some easy running on some hard pack dirt roads and sand washes. It was not possible to keep the temp below 200 with any sort of driving style. I said screw it and ran it for the day. I saw temps over 240F frequently. If I stopped and revved it in neutral I could get the temp to come down rapidly, but within minutes of driving the temp would go back up pretty rapidly. I also noticed a small squeal had developed at low RPM that was not there before.

After doing some research I am pretty sure something is wrong. It looks like most of you run normally in the 160F to 180F range and the only time it goes up from there is when you just did something that is not normal driving and you know it. Even then I have not seen any reports of exceeding 200F unless you are really trying to fry the belt.

So I am going to tear in to the clutches and would like some input on what to look for. Here is what I have so far:
- Belt condition (width/damage)
- Debris or buildup on the sheaves
- Clogged inlet/exhaust for the CVT venting
- Clogged CVT inlet filter (was cleaned when I did the temp sensor/belt)
- Primary and secondary looks like it is working when running in neutral
- One-way clutch bearing
- Remove primary and inspect all moving parts for wear/binding/modifications
- Remove secondary clutch and inspect all moving parts for wear/binding/modifications
- Spring condition
- Make sure the clutch bolts are the post recall design.
- Replace one-way clutch bearings with sealed bearings (I already bought these)
- Grease and reassemble one-way clutch bearing assembly
- Examine Sheave surfaces and hand sand them with 400 grit. Final pattern going from hub out, not along belt path.
- Wipe down the sheaves and belt with Acetone right before remounting belt.
- Clean new belt with soap/water and install

So what else should I be looking for?

What specific break in should I be doing on a new belt. Be specific, for instance:
1. Drive using less than ___% throttle for ___ minutes or until the belt heats up to ___F.
2. Return to camp.
3. Run RPM up to 2000 in neutral to cool belt to ___F and shut down.
4. Let sit for ___ minutes.
5. Repeat this process ___ times.

I am totally about doing it myself. I have built a couple 4 wheel drive vehicles. I have rebuilt the motor for my ATC 350X while I was replacing the case half from a chain breakage. I have the factory manual for this unit. Hell, I am in the middle of putting ram assist steering on my Mountaineer.
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1997 Elite Monsterneer regestry,
1967 Bronco (Bonchole), modified to infinity & beyond
2005 4.0 Mountaineer 2WD, stock, 1992 F350 4X4 quad cab, stock (the tow rig)
10m, 2m 146.535, 70cm=KI6MCO, CB ch27=Apollo 3, GMRS ch7, RIP 85 Bronco, you will be missed

Last edited by bronchole; 06-26-2018 at 01:04 AM. Reason: Adding stuff!
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post #2 of 21 Old 06-26-2018, 08:15 AM
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2014 Maverick belt running hot

Does this maverick have the second air inlet that draws its air from behind the driver seat . It would of had a hose hook up lined up with the secondary .

My 14 maverick had terrible high belt temps so I put a turbo primary on because mine was slipping very bad and I also did the qrs secondary upgrade .
I know that the qrs moves more than double the air flow and because of what I changed my belt temps are way lower . I can hold the hammer down for a 1/2 mile and the temp will maybe hit 205


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Last edited by Troy; 06-26-2018 at 08:23 AM.
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post #3 of 21 Old 06-27-2018, 02:36 AM Thread Starter
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Troy,

Thanks for replying. I couldn't have asked for a better person to reply

I do not have the secondary inlet on the cover.

I have been reading about the lock mods. It sounds like you have moved on from the mod you were doing with UATV and on to the turbo parts. Ebay wants over $500 for that. OUCH! I will try a couple other sources and see how low can it go.

I investigated the clutches tonight. Nothing obvious stuck out and got my attention....... that is until I removed my primary. I can see obvious signs that the taper had been slipping. I also noticed that the bolt that holds this on to the crank was not as tight as I would have thought it would be. Pretty sure it took allot less than 80 ftlb to release it. There is a weird swirl pattern on both sides of the belt also.

I plan to do some rock crawling, rock climbing, rocky trails possibly towing a small off road trailer loaded with camping gear. Me and my wife are not small people so just alone load this thing to its capacity. At some point I am sure I will be going with a bit larger tires, but not over 31 ever in my imagination. No mudding, but I will occasionally do sand. Top speed is not important, but I will get to whatever top speed this is capable of. I do love a nice strong acceleration from a stop. I do not have any plans to do any crazy engine mods to increase the power. Probably would have never considered modding the clutch except it seems like it is necessary to extend belt life. I may at some point look in to a selectable locker for the front diff.

With that description, would you point me more towards the lock mod or the BRP square flange upgrade?

And how the hell do you remove the stud? I am planning on buying a pair of nuts to lock on to the stud and try turning it out that way.

Thanks for you help.

Dan
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1997 Elite Monsterneer regestry,
1967 Bronco (Bonchole), modified to infinity & beyond
2005 4.0 Mountaineer 2WD, stock, 1992 F350 4X4 quad cab, stock (the tow rig)
10m, 2m 146.535, 70cm=KI6MCO, CB ch27=Apollo 3, GMRS ch7, RIP 85 Bronco, you will be missed
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post #4 of 21 Old 06-27-2018, 02:39 AM Thread Starter
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I also noticed some weird stuff on the washers that hold the primary on. I think some of this is just normal rust, but some of it looks like it is burnished from slipping.
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1997 Elite Monsterneer regestry,
1967 Bronco (Bonchole), modified to infinity & beyond
2005 4.0 Mountaineer 2WD, stock, 1992 F350 4X4 quad cab, stock (the tow rig)
10m, 2m 146.535, 70cm=KI6MCO, CB ch27=Apollo 3, GMRS ch7, RIP 85 Bronco, you will be missed
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post #5 of 21 Old 06-27-2018, 02:43 AM Thread Starter
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It had the single seal bearings in the one-way. They had some lube in there, but it was in need of service. One of the bearings was dragging a bit on something. I am replacing them with double sealed bearings so no big deal there.
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1997 Elite Monsterneer regestry,
1967 Bronco (Bonchole), modified to infinity & beyond
2005 4.0 Mountaineer 2WD, stock, 1992 F350 4X4 quad cab, stock (the tow rig)
10m, 2m 146.535, 70cm=KI6MCO, CB ch27=Apollo 3, GMRS ch7, RIP 85 Bronco, you will be missed
bronchole is offline  
post #6 of 21 Old 06-27-2018, 08:43 AM
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This is caused by running with the bolt to loose. Remove the stud and get a bolt from UATV-TECH tighten to 95-100 ft. lbs. with some 243 loctite. I'd lap the spider with the taper to get a good contact patch, looks like it's only contacting about 1/2 the cone. The belt looks pretty good to me but might be glazed over, good cleaning and scotchbrite pad. Also do not get acetone on the bushings (not good).
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post #7 of 21 Old 06-27-2018, 09:26 AM
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The only mod on a maverick clutch that might hold is a double lock . I would try the taper clean up and if not happy move on to a different clutch . The second inlet clutch cover was a free upgrade on the mavericks

A list of mods extreme bumper,hid lights,led light bar,powersteering,rackzilla,customlift;outlaw tires,beadlocks,dual batterys dual exhaust,dualwinchs,full warn skids custom cab,heater ,black box,clutchkit,roof,tunes,gorilla frontaxles,2013QE diff,custom built front driveshaft,pipewrap,low sport ,blower, fan over ride, BEST MOD maverick rear diff,quiet and tuff , turner rear axles, custom center console cover that controls all heat and noise IM DONE.............
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post #8 of 21 Old 06-27-2018, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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What is this double lock mod?

I'll lap the interface no matter what I do. I think I will also order the upgraded bolt as suggested also.

1997 Elite Monsterneer regestry,
1967 Bronco (Bonchole), modified to infinity & beyond
2005 4.0 Mountaineer 2WD, stock, 1992 F350 4X4 quad cab, stock (the tow rig)
10m, 2m 146.535, 70cm=KI6MCO, CB ch27=Apollo 3, GMRS ch7, RIP 85 Bronco, you will be missed
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post #9 of 21 Old 06-27-2018, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Bolt ordered.

1997 Elite Monsterneer regestry,
1967 Bronco (Bonchole), modified to infinity & beyond
2005 4.0 Mountaineer 2WD, stock, 1992 F350 4X4 quad cab, stock (the tow rig)
10m, 2m 146.535, 70cm=KI6MCO, CB ch27=Apollo 3, GMRS ch7, RIP 85 Bronco, you will be missed
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post #10 of 21 Old 06-27-2018, 11:26 AM
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Replacing the P.O.S. OEM bolt may remedy the slip in your clutch along with your clean and lap and torque plan but can I add acetone is some strong chit and may not be the best thing for the belt! I would recommend just washing with the dish soap and rinsing thoroughly,best of luck.

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