Airdamm Vs QSC ?

[DustinH]

Hey Guys Just Wonderin If Anyone Has Or Is Running The Clutch Setup From Quad Shop Customs, I Been Trying To Get Ahold Of Adam @ Airdamm But No Luck. A Buddy Of Mine Has A Setup From Adam @ Quad Shop Customs And Says It Works Great, I Ordered Mine From QSC On Friday Because Airdam Adam Never Answered Or Returned Emails. Hope It Was A Good Buy ! Anybody Running A QSC Setup? If So How Do You Like It? Thanx Guys ! Happy Ridn'!

[Xelvic]

Quote: Originally Posted by DustinH

Hey Guys Just Wonderin If Anyone Has Or Is Running The Clutch Setup From Quad Shop Customs, I Been Trying To Get Ahold Of Adam @ Airdamm But No Luck. A Buddy Of Mine Has A Setup From Adam @ Quad Shop Customs And Says It Works Great, I Ordered Mine From QSC On Friday Because Airdam Adam Never Answered Or Returned Emails. Hope It Was A Good Buy ! Anybody Running A QSC Setup? If So How Do You Like It? Thanx Guys ! Happy Ridn'!

I run the CvTech and like it. However I can not recommend Airdam because of the customer support issues, so I don't blame you. He needs a little competition to lighten his wallet. That may be what changes his no contact policy. Let us know how the QSC clutch works out. STM also has a new rage 3 that is just now shipping out for the Commander. Good times for us Commander owners. Now if we can just get the ECU cracked.

[DustinH]

I Hear Ya On The ECU !

[miller48]

lets us know how this setup works out?

[Msigle5400]

Can you guys tell me why the Airdam clutch is better than EPI??? Is the Airdam clutch faster than the EPI Clutch springs and weight setup??? I take it from reading the reviews that the Airdam kit comes with a different primary and secondary??? Thanks Guys...

[miller48]

Quote: Originally Posted by Msigle5400

Can you guys tell me why the Airdam clutch is better than EPI??? Is the Airdam clutch faster than the EPI Clutch springs and weight setup??? I take it from reading the reviews that the Airdam kit comes with a different primary and secondary??? Thanks Guys...

The secondary is cut for a lower gear so you have better take off. primary is total different than stock better belt grip. THE BEST TIME TO CALL ADAM IS LATE AFTERNOON. I can get a hold of him almost every time.

[///AIRDAM]

i am here every day but from 11:00 - 4:00 the phone is ringing off the hook. thats the hardest time to reach me directly cause i am on the phone constantly. late afternoons the calls slow down and you can get me directly rather than just the secretary.


the clutch setup/setups that you are referring to are different in many ways. the EPI is a clutch "kit" it has spring and weight setups that help give you more gains out of the factory primary clutch. however the only downfall to this is not the clutch kit, its the factory clutch. the factory clutch is designed to slip under loads to try and keep you from breaking your diffs or axles or trans. when you get in a bind that presents a load great enough to make the primary slip, it slips the belt burning and sometimes blowing the belt. the clutch kit helps try and limit the factory clutches slipping, but nothing will eliminate it completely. it is the factory clutches job to slip under loads and nothing will make it completely stop.

the airdam clutch setup is mainly set around the primary clutch. you have your choice of secondary options depending on your riding style, performance needs, and how you use your machine. the primary replaces the OEM primary clutch with a setup that wont slip the belt under loads like the factory clutch does which helps give better belt life. on top of the belts longer life, you also get a lower starting gear ratio which gives better low end, better throttle response, and smoother starts. this new primary is also lighter than the OEM primary so it allows you to rev faster and accelerate faster. depending on your needs, you may like some of the secondary options i have. the STM full billet roller secondary gives you tons better/faster backshifting in the dunes keeping you in the right gear ratio when you pull the hills. the machined secondary gives you tons of low ratio by squeezing the belt higher in the secondary pinching the belt tighter than factory giving you a firmer belt pinch and a more positive throttle feel rather than a mushy and jerky feel like the OEM setup has with a semi-loose belt. if you are a serious racer or duner with a turbo in mind i have full STM setups that will handle 150+hp that also utilize a bearing in the primary to allow you to run the belt tighter in the primary giving you that positive feel out of the STM setup, one which could never be done before since with the full STM setup you had to run the belt loose and maintain a proper belt deflection. with the new setups you can run the belt tight just as i do with the CVtech clutch. regardless of what you are looking for i can fix you up. the only major setback is the cost. a clutch kit is much much cheaper than a full replacement clutch setup.

[SANDSTAN]

Quote: Originally Posted by ///AIRDAM

i am here every day but from 11:00 - 4:00 the phone is ringing off the hook. thats the hardest time to reach me directly cause i am on the phone constantly. late afternoons the calls slow down and you can get me directly rather than just the secretary.


the clutch setup/setups that you are referring to are different in many ways. the EPI is a clutch "kit" it has spring and weight setups that help give you more gains out of the factory primary clutch. however the only downfall to this is not the clutch kit, its the factory clutch. the factory clutch is designed to slip under loads to try and keep you from breaking your diffs or axles or trans. when you get in a bind that presents a load great enough to make the primary slip, it slips the belt burning and sometimes blowing the belt. the clutch kit helps try and limit the factory clutches slipping, but nothing will eliminate it completely. it is the factory clutches job to slip under loads and nothing will make it completely stop.
the airdam clutch setup is mainly set around the primary clutch. you have your choice of secondary options depending on your riding style, performance needs, and how you use your machine. the primary replaces the OEM primary clutch with a setup that wont slip the belt under loads like the factory clutch does which helps give better belt life. on top of the belts longer life, you also get a lower starting gear ratio which gives better low end, better throttle response, and smoother starts. this new primary is also lighter than the OEM primary so it allows you to rev faster and accelerate faster. depending on your needs, you may like some of the secondary options i have. the STM full billet roller secondary gives you tons better/faster backshifting in the dunes keeping you in the right gear ratio when you pull the hills. the machined secondary gives you tons of low ratio by squeezing the belt higher in the secondary pinching the belt tighter than factory giving you a firmer belt pinch and a more positive throttle feel rather than a mushy and jerky feel like the OEM setup has with a semi-loose belt. if you are a serious racer or duner with a turbo in mind i have full STM setups that will handle 150+hp that also utilize a bearing in the primary to allow you to run the belt tighter in the primary giving you that positive feel out of the STM setup, one which could never be done before since with the full STM setup you had to run the belt loose and maintain a proper belt deflection. with the new setups you can run the belt tight just as i do with the CVtech clutch. regardless of what you are looking for i can fix you up. the only major setback is the cost. a clutch kit is much much cheaper than a full replacement clutch setup.

Adam is the only advantage of the full STM set up, just for the higher HP, or is there other reasons also.The CVTech primary and STM secondary has worked really well so far for me in the sand and desert...

[Msigle5400]

Quote: Originally Posted by ///AIRDAM

i am here every day but from 11:00 - 4:00 the phone is ringing off the hook. thats the hardest time to reach me directly cause i am on the phone constantly. late afternoons the calls slow down and you can get me directly rather than just the secretary.


the clutch setup/setups that you are referring to are different in many ways. the EPI is a clutch "kit" it has spring and weight setups that help give you more gains out of the factory primary clutch. however the only downfall to this is not the clutch kit, its the factory clutch. the factory clutch is designed to slip under loads to try and keep you from breaking your diffs or axles or trans. when you get in a bind that presents a load great enough to make the primary slip, it slips the belt burning and sometimes blowing the belt. the clutch kit helps try and limit the factory clutches slipping, but nothing will eliminate it completely. it is the factory clutches job to slip under loads and nothing will make it completely stop.

the airdam clutch setup is mainly set around the primary clutch. you have your choice of secondary options depending on your riding style, performance needs, and how you use your machine. the primary replaces the OEM primary clutch with a setup that wont slip the belt under loads like the factory clutch does which helps give better belt life. on top of the belts longer life, you also get a lower starting gear ratio which gives better low end, better throttle response, and smoother starts. this new primary is also lighter than the OEM primary so it allows you to rev faster and accelerate faster. depending on your needs, you may like some of the secondary options i have. the STM full billet roller secondary gives you tons better/faster backshifting in the dunes keeping you in the right gear ratio when you pull the hills. the machined secondary gives you tons of low ratio by squeezing the belt higher in the secondary pinching the belt tighter than factory giving you a firmer belt pinch and a more positive throttle feel rather than a mushy and jerky feel like the OEM setup has with a semi-loose belt. if you are a serious racer or duner with a turbo in mind i have full STM setups that will handle 150+hp that also utilize a bearing in the primary to allow you to run the belt tighter in the primary giving you that positive feel out of the STM setup, one which could never be done before since with the full STM setup you had to run the belt loose and maintain a proper belt deflection. with the new setups you can run the belt tight just as i do with the CVtech clutch. regardless of what you are looking for i can fix you up. the only major setback is the cost. a clutch kit is much much cheaper than a full replacement clutch setup.

How much does the primary setup usually run and also the secondary??? My commander is setup with the EPI weights/springs, heavy duty belt, and muzzy full exhaust with digitune, and black box... My brother-in-law has a stock XP and is still killing me by almost 2 bike lengths time and time again... That is with us switching bikes and racing them back to back... I have heard rumors or actual facts that the muzzy systems actual drop 3hp from the dyno charts I have seen, maybe thats my problem... I know I have seen others mention the Commander is faster than the XP stock to stock but we raced the two bikes again and again when they were new and the XP killed me everytime by at least 5 bike lengths again and again stock... The clutch kit helped the most staying with the XP at the moment that I have witnessed... Any suggestions??? Thanks

[Cclark]

adam I have PMed you and wrote on a thread that you recently posted on just like this one and havent gotten a response. I need some information from you, What is a good number to contact you?